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So just to get this straight you are powering a ac motor from the mains/national grid? to convert good electricity into mechanical energy ( with all its attendant losses ) Then via a belt drive ( with all its attendant losses ) To drive a alternator/generator ( with huge losses ) To charge a...

I understand inverters and all but why are you connecting a weedy little motor to attempt to generate a 16 fold increase in power ? Or are you attempting to get something for nothing ?

"""the motor is going to power a high output 12v alternator 215amps regulated this will help keep the battery's topped up well so the idea is at night we can run small items fine from battery bank the motor low wattage will run the alternator if we need to say run a washing machine / dishwasher...

Slightly off topic but how are you going to spin a 3000 watt generator with a 187.5 watt motor? or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick Ian

Do you know how heavy a ta175 is? one person job if need be the top comes off with perhaps 6-8 bolts easily carried by one person the base with motor and tilt arbor is again very light perhaps 50 kg Ian

I have a bench mounted startrite drill with variable speed Quite a large distance twixt chuck and table You can have that for 250 £ Or a floor mounted startrite with 2 speed gearbox and 4 speed belt change plus variable speed with a longer column than standard yours for 600 Ian

I can do it for you easily in that time scale Ian

I have collected all my graduates in my estate car by myself Get the pedestal to the tailgate place a piece of plywood against the bumper and push the pedestal over Then grasp the base and lift it up and in They only 100 kg or so Ian

I think its down the scroll within the chuck is designed to stop against one of the jaws when its been opened to its design limit on my chucks one jaw goes solid when opened up fully the 3 others still wobble slightly to remove the jaw slides you open up the chuck from behind and remove the key...

If you fancy a drive to Sheffield I can show you mine long and short bed versions and all the modifications Ian And also if you decide you want one i have one for sale at a very reasonable price ( bowl lathe)

If you let me know the diameter of hole and length and any other dimensions i can supply you a bolt and handle to suit Ian

You just place a dropper plate bolted to the existing holes on the headstock and then bolting the bed to the plate at whichever drop you wish then a toolrest adapter to take up the shortfall on your toolrest post but you prob cant do this if you only drop it 2 inches so you would be best making...

WM the grub screw is to hold the sprung centre in Ian

Looks an expensive unit new? I recently bought a RYVAL 170 amp from my local BOC depot its a mma with lift tig and its fantastic I can pick it up with one finger its quiet its powerfull easy to start on mma easy to use on tig ( you cant do alloy) my unit was just over £250 from boc with bags to...

It will be tight perhaps a 1lb hammer onto a drift ( length of steel slightly smaller diameter than your bearings id ) definately not screwed and perhaps tap is wrong sometimes bashing with all your force is nessesary Ian

just place the shaft in a loose vice rest the bearing on the jaws and tap the shaft through with drift that deals with the bearing press on a new one pressing on the inner race only there should be numbers on the old bearing but if you post the 3 sizes we can confirm the size the side thrust...

I have seen a couple for sale and they made about 75 per cent of new price Good luck in your search Ian