Union Graduate 20" modification

[leisurefix]

Was really interested to read the thread about the 16" modification of the Union Graduate, it inspired me to take some photos of the modification that I had done to mine.

Years ago I modified the outboard of the Myford ML8 that I had at the time, it sort of worked but made me realise my welding skills were fairly poor. Therefore a few years later when I had sold the ML8 and got a Union Graduate I asked a neighbour to help with the modification.

The 4" billet/spacer for the tailstock is drilled through for 6 bolts, and the original tailstock then drilled and tapped so the two are securely attached. The metal plate used to drop the tailstock uses the existing location pins, and is then bolted on. The only thing that didn't work perfectly, was the drilling of the 1" hole in the extender for the toolrest as the swarf didn't clear properly and resulted in a slightly oversize hole.

Enough words, so here are the pictures of the modifications:

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I guess I'm being a bit slow here but why would you want to do this? Doesn't the lathe already have an outboard capacity of 20", (or greater)? Are you spindle turning items greater than 12" over the bed? I'm sure there'll be a good reason, I just can't think of it :?

Regards Mick

 

[Arckivio]

You beat me dude but it seems you didn't make the same deliberate mistake i did. Did you notice i lifted the whole tool rest assembly and not just the tool rest post? Went to turn something larger today and wondered why i didn't. Have any more room than before, what a Pratt!!!!!! Obviously. Now i need a 45mm diameter bar and some drilling! I am curious as to how you dropped your by so much when even dropping the 3 inches the fixing holes are spaced apart took me off the milled flat part of the head stock? Good work anyway.

 

[flh801978]

You just place a dropper plate bolted to the existing holes on the headstock and then bolting the bed to the plate at whichever drop you wish
then a toolrest adapter to take up the shortfall on your toolrest post but you prob cant do this if you only drop it 2 inches so you would be best making up some extended shaft toolrests

Ian

 

[leisurefix]

I wanted the extended swing over the main bed as there are times that I want to be able to put large pieces between centres (particularly when remounting large bowls and turning off the foot). I also needed to be able to place the tool rest further away from the work than is possible on the outboard side (e.g. for deep hollowing). I did consider getting a stand alone tool rest, but decided against it due to cost and it not being as versatile as dropping the bed.

Raising the toolrest deliberate error is the kind of thing I would normally do, it was only through convenience I used the toolrest extension I have. It is not the perfect solution though, as I often find the double set of locking bars causes pinched fingers. I did buy the long stemmed toolrest system that Robert Sorby tools make, but I don't like the round top bar, much preferring the classic style toolrests.

 

[Spindle]

Ahh!!

Deep hollowing, I hadn't thought of that

Regards Mick

 

[paul-c]

thanks for that leisurefix (hammer)
i have been planning something similar when i can eventually get around to it.
did you need to do much fettling to get the centres to line up?
thanks for sharing
cheers paul-c

 

[Arckivio]

You just place a dropper plate bolted to the existing holes on the headstock and then bolting the bed to the plate at whichever drop you wish
then a toolrest adapter to take up the shortfall on your toolrest post but you prob cant do this if you only drop it 2 inches so you would be best making up some extended shaft toolrests

Ian

I see what you did now with the thick plate & I like your tailstock shoe. A bit beyond me although mine lined up all by itself so that made it easier for me. I'm going to weld a 50mm diameter by 50 long bar to my existing toolpost so I don't have the double handles. Hardest bit will be drilling the 1" hole!!!!

 

[leisurefix]

I was careful with the drilling of the locating holes, but the bolted plate still needs to be tweaked a bit to make sure the tailstock lines up exactly. I checked again when taking the photos, and it is half a mm or so out (as a result of man handling the lathe when moving it a bit in the workshop), so I need to readjust it.

I would be tempted to have a go using the lathe for metal turning, lot safer to pop along to the local engineering workshop though and pay someone. Problem I have is that I have and regularly use 3 toolrests, so need something that is usable with all of them.

Cheers, Andy

 

[Arckivio]

I was careful with the drilling of the locating holes, but the bolted plate still needs to be tweaked a bit to make sure the tailstock lines up exactly. I checked again when taking the photos, and it is half a mm or so out (as a result of man handling the lathe when moving it a bit in the workshop), so I need to readjust it.

I would be tempted to have a go using the lathe for metal turning, lot safer to pop along to the local engineering workshop though and pay someone. Problem I have is that I have and regularly use 3 toolrests, so need something that is usable with all of them.

Cheers, Andy

There were definitely some Harrison made attachments that turned this into a basic, light duty metal lathe but i wouldn't fancy having to keep switching between the two. Love my lathe and can't wait to finish it off with the 50mm diameter round bar i ordered. Weld that on and grind the welds off those stupid uprights and it's done.