Search results

Use C24 treated and should last for years if not in contact with the ground, or stand on paving slabs. Just so long as when it gets wet it can dry out.

Looks the business :-)

Interesting project. Do keep us posted on the progress.

Nice piece of kit. I had a go on an old cast iron one once. The guy who owned it was a proper old school panel beater. He had a good laugh at my miserable efforts to dish a piece of scrap. Much harder than he made it look :-)

Works well, although it increases opacity so will hide any grain. Can be a good or bad thing depending on what you are doing. Liquid tints are good where you want to change the colour but without altering the transparency as it were.

For something like a bench you may not need to use clamps at all. If you have cut the parts nice and square then just hold them down on a bench using ordinary G clamps or whatever. Then put a tack at one end of the joint. Check it's square with an ordinary square. You can bend the tack slightly...

Stevep beat me to it. Fine to use just to tack stuff in place, then remove. But you are better off using non magnetic and clamps. You will be amazed the amount of crud the magnetic ones collect, and can actually be quite a pain to position as they try and pull somewhere you don't want. I have...

Hard wax can certainly be overcoated with shellac, I have been doing it for years. Wax polish I think ought to be removed as best you can for a long lasting finish. Anything containing silicone should be avoided like the plague.

That is interesting. The wax sticks I use seem way too hard for that, but never actually tried it. I melt it using a soldering iron and drip it on. You can make a mould from masking tape to fill something like a damaged corner. Even the shavings don't seem to soften or smear on your hands, or...

I tend to fill a little proud then scrape back to shape using a scraper or Stanley knife blade. This leaves a Matt or silk type finish. No end of techniques you can use. Brush the dried wax with a wire brush etc.

I am talking about the hard wax, that comes in solid sticks. I use the humbrol brand model makers paint which is oil based. Comes in a massive variety of colours so easy to get a very good match. I dare say you might have problems using a water based paint.

That's why I like the beams and or proximity sensors. Sets it off before they have had a chance.

Wax is great because it will accept other finishes. For filling a small section of missing veneer in mahogany for example. Mix the wax to match the base colour of the finished wood then the characteristic black flecks can be added with paint, or sometimes a Rotring type pen. The beauty of the...

Oh you naughty naughty man :-)

Very good. I use hard wax all the time for repairs to clock cases. Old style electric soldering iron is good for applying.

If only we could persuade nature to re evaluate the consequences of our stupidity. The effects of climate change are clear for all to see, and only likely to get worse, so we need to crack on in minimising our contribution.

Did you forget what the question was? You certainly haven't answered it.

You can also modify PIR units by gluing a piece of tube on the dome. Reduces their sensitivity and range so they can be used like a proximity sensor. You can experiment with different sizes and lengths of tube. About 10mm ID and 20mm long range reduced to about 6-8 feet and maybe 10°. Position...

I would spend a couple of quid on a flashing led. You can wire that into the box and mount it on the outside of the building. That way you have a good visual indication when it's live.

Spax wafer head screws are great for these sort of jobs, Screwfix etc.