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Yes, I'm aware of that. The data sheet for it (Steinert's Drechsleroel from Toolpost) mentions that it takes 4 weeks to fully cure =:-0 Not a finish for those that are in a rush.

I've used a system of buffing wheels for my 'hard' finished work with good success. I'm now trying some hard wax oil finishes, would it be best to use different buffing wheels on the oil finish to prevent contamination back to the hard finishes ?

OS is irrelevant with phishing scams.

Another 'how do I start a woodworking business?' thread. It's all too frequent here.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/boxes-making-joints-with-machinery-t96083.html Here we go again.

One of the curious aspects of these threads, beginners seem to ask the same questions regularly here, is that whilst there's a core of common 'must haves' like a good square, No 4 plane, chisels, steel rule/straight edge, saw etc........... A few people always regard something as indispensable...

If by 'dark wood' you mean a hardwood, eg Oak, mahogany etc. you'll need to find a specialist hardwood timber merchant. There are a few scattered around the edges of London, some of which are quite 'novice friendly', let us know where you are and people can recommend somewhere appropriate. You...

This is a good strategy with any store. You get the value of the extra, but they only loose the wholesale value, rather than a larger chunk of revenue. I think some woodturning clubs negotiate discounts for their members from Axi, so this may be a route to look at. Membership fees are pretty...

You've not read about the hazards then. Lung disease is a particularly nasty way to die. Face masks cost very little.

Between the booklet and the excellent videos on You Tube, I think the SPE has enough good instructions provided. I've only read one person complain about them. Yes, there's less content than the tomes supplied with the Tormek, but firstly the SPE doesn't need the complex jigs to set up the tool...

It does generate some dust and the lack of effective extraction is a flaw in the SPE. When I'm doing any major reshaping I get a vacuum nozzle near the end of belt to capture as much as possible at source, plus I have a few rare earth magnets on the base which capture quite a lot of mess too...

Rather nice figuring IMHO

In two words, effective advertising.

The key to the SPE is the big, solid tool rest with it's accurate and repeatable tool rest that the jigs fit into. Once you've used one you'll understand just how well engineered this is and why it's so well respected by woodturners in particular.

It's up to you. If well finished the only people that will spot it's a mounting point are other turners, most people won't notice and is probably the easiest approach for beginners. You can remount in reverse and turn off the recess. There's very many ways of doing this, special chuck jaws for...

Good spot. There was a previous thread about it here at lf-docs-for-old-chuck-6-1-universal-hattersley-davidson-t74612.html

The jaws are dovetailed in the recess, so I'm sure it's designed to clamp a tenon. I've never heard of an exclusively expanding jaw system yet. Have a look at this thread and see if it's helpful multistar-duplex-chuck-t59839.html

Just turn it to tighten onto the tenon, the opposite direction to expanding into a recess. It may need a locking ring behind the main chuck body to prevent the main body unscrewing. That's certainly how the old Henry Taylor Masterchuck worked.

Not sure which of the older chucks this is, but it should work by either contracting around a dovetailed tenon made the correct size for the inside, or it will expand into a dovetailed recess in, say, a bowl bottom. Chucks like this are capable of useful work, but might need fairly precise...

Axminster sell their own brand Steb centre now. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ev ... e-ax958631 Not as cheap as the Chronos ones, but cheaper than Sorby.