Buffing oil finished work

[Rhossydd]

I've used a system of buffing wheels for my 'hard' finished work with good success.

I'm now trying some hard wax oil finishes, would it be best to use different buffing wheels on the oil finish to prevent contamination back to the hard finishes ?

 

[Bodrighy]

I would personally. Should be able to buff by hand though.

pete

 

[KimG]

Contrary to Pete, I use the same wheels for everything, my reasoning being this, the first two wheels are coated with an abrasive compound, tripoli and diamond white, it is these compounds rather than the cloth which is affecting the surface, I regularly clean the old compound off (especially the tripoli which i find tends to "set") and thus there is little or no cross contamination between finishes. I have used oil, hard wax, shellac and lacquers with no discernible failings so far.

Just popping this up for info mind you, not trying to persuade to a different course!

 

[CHJ]

Just make sure you let the oil polymerise so that you have a cured surface to work on and don't abrade too heavily, use light touches. see the notes included in Kim's coloured work buffing Guide.

 

[Rhossydd]

Just make sure you let the oil polymerise

Yes, I'm aware of that. The data sheet for it (Steinert's Drechsleroel from Toolpost) mentions that it takes 4 weeks to fully cure =:-0

Not a finish for those that are in a rush.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

How do you find Drechlerol? It would seem to be a fair bit cheaper than Fiddes or Osmo - is it similar? I don't know what Toolpost's p&p is, though.
I daresay if using several coats of Danish it would take weeks to cure fully.

 

[Rhossydd]

How do you find Drechlerol?

It's the first time I've used it, so ask again when it's cured ;-) first week in May

Not cheap I think, but seemed worth a punt to pick up a can when I was last there.