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Worst for me is a makita core drill, did a couple of hours drilling with it, burnt the motor out, sent it back and they said user error and wouldnt fix or replace it. Even though the previous Makita (same model doing the same job) had lasted about 6 years! How the **** it can be user error I...

Yeah tuffsaws blades are decent.

A sharp one.

For cross cutting you'd be better off getting a sliding mitre saw. I use mine a hell of a lot more than my table saw.

I use 6mm backs in a slot. Full height with a top rail of 18mm behind the panel. Don't see any point in using anything thicker the cabinets I make are plenty strong enough. This is with birch ply. For wall cabinets I do the same and use proper wall fixings for kitchen cabinets.

I guess you've tried tightening a bit aswell as loosening?

If I was pushed for time I would buy the units. I would definitely replace them now if I was you, otherwise once you've finished replacing everything else you're going to regret it. Just buy them from b and q and slap them together, it'll only take you a day and cost a few bob but it's worth it.

I was using normal dewalts and going through atleast 2 every couple of hundred screws.Ive tried the dewalt "impact" ones, which are pants and would sometimes break about every 5 screws. Then I had some of these come free in a box of 600 screws. 5 free bits and I can honestly say one bit would...

I've got rider one from Axminster that works alright. Think it was around that price.

Mitrefast glue? Or whatever it's called...?

Has he left it to cool down and tried it again? I know my festool slows down when it's been worked a bit hard but once it's cooled down its fine.

I have some. Located in Buxton, how much do you need?

Try these... https://www.mightonproducts.com/product ... -fasteners

How wide are the posts? Couldn't you hang them on the outside of the posts rather than in between? Or are they still too big doing it like that?

I don't see the point in using an insert for handles...?

I don't see what the problem is. If the strip is narrower than the track just use another piece to support the rest of the width of the track. If the piece slips you're either doing something wrong,or the blades blunt and is taking too much force to cut. I've never had a problem cutting thin strips

I have one for sale.Its axminster one with 3 used chisels. Not put it up on here yet though. Wouldn't really want to post it and I'm located in buxton Derbyshire. I'd want £60 or so for it.

When I built an oak face frame kitchen I just used a very sharp chisel, didn't take long at all. Takes a bit of practise though but more pleasing when done and harder to **** up than using a router.

Doesn't look like it would work on out of square walls either. Waste of money. I use a jigsaw for mine, cut with a mitre saw first then follow the pattern. Normally cut the top perfectly square then undercut the rest to get a good fit.

I wouldn't bother with a fence. Just some t track sunk into the base so you can use some kind of stop block. I would probably only bother with this on the left hand wing too.