mitre saw station question

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Rjcagnew

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I am about to start building a dedicated stand for my mitre saw-usual type affair with collapsing support wings etc. However one plan I read suggested that when aligning the fence on the support wings then to drop it back about half an inch from the actual fence on the mitre saw. This is to ensure that if you have a long length of timber which is bowed you can still ensure a square cut as it will be straight on the actual mitre saw fence. This makes sense however if the fence is not aligned what is the point of a fence on the support wings other than if you are going to use a stop block? Hope this makes sense thanks Richard

Ps I managed to pick up a great deal on dedicated flip stop and t track online so I do plan to use one
 
Make your fence set back by whatever the amount is you decide, then cut a new front to the fence the right thickness to fill the void. Easily removed with a couple of sunken bolts with butterfly nuts on the back.

Tip: Make sure you get your dust extraction sorted during the build.
 
Do more research before you finalise your plans. Mitre saws have a reputation of being safe, easy, obvious, and pretty foolproof. None of those is true.

Cutting bowed timber happens on job sites everywhere, and it's one reason why you should be wary about buying a second hand 115v mitre saw. Cutting warped timber means it will have likely suffered loads of kick backs and the two halves of the fence and the fence mounting metalwork will as likely as not be twisted out of alignment. Google mitre saw kick back and find out more. If you make a habit of cutting warped boards it'll happen to you too and you should understand the risks.

Another point is mitre saw safety, especially when tables are involved. I've seen examples where users take advantage of the tables to build in lots of clamps and stops...and then regularly use them on both sides of the saw blade at the same time. That's bad practise. Only ever have one stop and one clamp, and they should only be used on the same side of the blade. Could be on the left for this cut, the right for that cut, but only ever on one side for each particular cut. Google mitre saw safety and you'll find out why.

Having the facility to move the fence forward can be useful for dado or trenching cuts, but it's a lot of faff when an off-cut behind the workpiece can do a similar job...as long as you've thought through how your clamps and stops will still function.

The guy you linked to no doubt has bags of enthusiasm, but he actually knows practically nothing. He's a hobbyist sharing his experience of building his first mitre saw table. Disregard him.
 
I wouldn't bother with a fence. Just some t track sunk into the base so you can use some kind of stop block. I would probably only bother with this on the left hand wing too.
 
custard":3c3l2ob5 said:
The guy you linked to no doubt has bags of enthusiasm, but he actually knows practically nothing. He's a hobbyist sharing his experience of building his first mitre saw table. Disregard him.

Ha he must have read your post and added this Custard. You should have scrolled down to the very bottom. Some good points by the way.
table saw.JPG
 

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Graham Orm":37nk00a5 said:
custard":37nk00a5 said:
The guy you linked to no doubt has bags of enthusiasm, but he actually knows practically nothing. He's a hobbyist sharing his experience of building his first mitre saw table. Disregard him.

Ha he must have read your post and added this Custard. You should have scrolled down to the very bottom. Some good points by the way.

That's the problem with the internet as a source of knowledge. We tend to impute knowledge in others without any real evidence of their true credentials.

So he worked in the flooring industry, but what as? An accountant? A delivery driver?

And he's been making furniture for twenty years. But lots of forum members could (and do!) make similar claims, a school woodworking project twenty years ago followed by a bird house ten years ago and a foot stool five years ago might better describe their actual output and the real extent of their experience, yet listen to the conviction and certainty in their words and you'd be forgiven for thinking it was Alan Peters who was posting!

:lol:
 
custard":2zsu86rb said:
Do more research before you finalise your plans. Mitre saws have a reputation of being safe, easy, obvious, and pretty foolproof. None of those is true.

Cutting bowed timber happens on job sites everywhere, and it's one reason why you should be wary about buying a second hand 115v mitre saw. Cutting warped timber means it will have likely suffered loads of kick backs and the two halves of the fence and the fence mounting metalwork will as likely as not be twisted out of alignment. Google mitre saw kick back and find out more. If you make a habit of cutting warped boards it'll happen to you too and you should understand the risks.

Another point is mitre saw safety, especially when tables are involved. I've seen examples where users take advantage of the tables to build in lots of clamps and stops...and then regularly use them on both sides of the saw blade at the same time. That's bad practise. Only ever have one stop and one clamp, and they should only be used on the same side of the blade. Could be on the left for this cut, the right for that cut, but only ever on one side for each particular cut. Google mitre saw safety and you'll find out why.

Having the facility to move the fence forward can be useful for dado or trenching cuts, but it's a lot of faff when an off-cut behind the workpiece can do a similar job...as long as you've thought through how your clamps and stops will still function.

The guy you linked to no doubt has bags of enthusiasm, but he actually knows practically nothing. He's a hobbyist sharing his experience of building his first mitre saw table. Disregard him.

Excellent post
 
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