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Personally I'm not in the 'reticent' camp. My kids both use cordless drills, jigsaw, sanders, rail saw, domino and just started on the bandsaw (I've only just got one last week). The 10 year old has also used a palm router and loves doing round overs and edge profiles for me. It goes without...

That Moose is the moosiest moose I've ever seen. Superb =D> =D> =D> =D>

If the tearout you're experiencing is at the back of the workpiece then I suggest using a thin strip of material (I use 50mm strips of 6mm MDF) placed between your workpiece and the rear fence. When you make the cut this will prevent the back edge tearing.

Free issue when I was recruited into the Imperial Army.....or something like that. I'll check with my son.

Agreed. I was responding mainly because I was in shock as no-ones ever said I had too much money before!!! :D :D

Wot Steve said.

Ha! I well remember trying to disguise **** ups like this with markers - it's like digging yourself in deeper and deeper. I normally run the Iron at angle for one or two strokes on each edge to get a good bond before trimming. I'll try running it over again after the trim and see if it helps...

I'm making some units that require Iron On Edging to the shelves. The board I'm using is 26mm American Black Walnut veneered MDF. I've bought some ABD Iron on edging from Meyer Timber and when fitting it's leaving a fine white edge which is the glue line. It's proving impossible to get rid of...

I spend many hours in the workshop in the evenings with my 10 year old son and 7 year old daughter and they are some of the best times ever!! Both my kids started off with Mora Frost knives at the age of 6. A big mistake is to give them blunt tools - as we all know they are actually much more...

Kreg shelf pin jig inc 5mm drill bit and collars = £22 from FFX Router bush & bit - my guess at least £12 minimum. Your time - half an hour to an hour @ £20 per hour = £10 - £20 Total = £22 - £32 Unless of course you did it in your own time and don't factor in that cost :D

This is of particular interest to me as I've been considering the purchase of a decent jig specifically for Dovetails. In an ideal world I'd practice 'til I'm 50 and get good at thrashing them out by hand. In the real world (or my world anyway) I need to be able to small production runs of up to...

If it isn't the robot then I'm going to be very pissed off!!

How else would you set up the table for cutting without a square? You can't be sure that the angle indicator is right and showing a true 90, so you have to use a square once everything is attached - unless there is some witchcraft that i'm not aware of (there usually is!!) Could you give some...

Yes.

I use the Kreg jig and I can't say that I've found it to be problematic. I once used it in MFC and the pins were a tad floppy but in MDF, Ply or solid it works fine.

I'm in Kent and you can come and collect bags of the stuff from me if you want.

It's not a sticker. It's a shim for when you're using veneered MDF. It accounts for the veneer and allows you to get a domino dead centre. Or maybe it's a ***** sticker.

Mike, I'm too far away to be of any practical use but I would add the following: In my experience the two single most important factors when it comes to successful planing are - 1. Sharpness of the plane iron. 2. Good work holding. The wood needs to be VERY FIRMLY HELD. So it move your bench...

I know , I know..... It's a leftover from when the building business went belly up. We used to use it on our bigger sites.

Thanks guys. Griggs, the MFT style top was made by a local guy with a CNC machine. Learn from my mistake if you want one - don't get it done in 25mm MDF like I did. Although the holes will take the parf dogs by Veritas you can't hook the festoon clamps through them. Once it gets cut to ribbons...