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Fake! ... there's no shadows! Just kidding. Looks really good, and nice tight joinery.

If you want to use sleds, then this needs to be done very accurately. I wouldn't be surprised if you had quotes for half the cost of the saw. Maybe the video thanos was after? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Urz57RVC15A

Then you get morons like this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt0MVtwscyE "I don't need a riving knife because I know how to use a table saw" It's a bit like saying I don't need a seat belt because I know how to drive a car. In both situations, there are variables that you have no control...

I always use push sticks, but the one argument I agree with is that I do feel like I have less control. Not to the point where I feel I would lose control (which is even more dangerous), but that I feel I could get a more accurate cut by hand. But I am more than happy to perhaps maybe get a...

They sent you a blurry drill bit?

The AC216 has about half the ripping width capacity though as compared to the other saws, so something to consider. It's a real shame it has such a small table.

In the comments they reply :

I wonder how Felder got over the patent with what seems like the same idea as the Bosch? Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I only just found out that Steve Gass is actually a patent attorney :O

It's a real shame you can't just recommend the ideal solution! ..... a bench top planer/thicknesser (or just planer). Sadly, good ones don't exist anymore!

Ah thanks. The reason I was thinking Aluminium was that it's easy to cut with normal tools. I hadn't thought about it marking.

I'd highly recommend drilling holes into your bench. So many uses! If you really don't want to though, you can just clamp a lengh of timber to your bench, and use that as a stop. It will need to be thinner than the board you're planing (12mm Ply works well), and long enough so that your plane...

Thanks for the feedback. I've ordered an Eclipse 70-CP1R and some Pegas blades. I would much rather drill out most of the waste from my mortices. For me personally, it helps as an aid to keep my chiseling straight, and after drilling, I can use normal chisels with light mallet operations.

I have the fatmax [PERSEVERING FACE] Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Heres my attempt. Works really nicely. On the next one I think I will use some aluminium flat bar for the skate. And I will rebate the fence in, as its miles out atm. Oh and its designed to be used right handed in a pull motion (my prefered way) Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I'm looking to purchase a decent quality coping saw, to mostly be used with cutting waste for dovetails. I quite like the look of the Knew Concepts saw, but then I saw the the price tag! Budget is around £60-£70 I currently have a crappy thing from Screwfix

Cool. I have been building a few over the last few days. I think the problem you /may/ have with that design is that the blade will tend to want to rotate around the screw pivot point (only by a real small amount, but enough to cause an issue). You really need two points of contact for a solid...

Perhaps adapt a G/C clamp? and weld a base to it?

I have a similar thing, only one layer though (so 40mm) and am super happy with it. .... can't believe I didn't think to glue two togeather though! ... wouldn't have cost that much more either ... grrrrr :cry: :cry:

Whats the giant overhang on the left for?