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Well to coin a phrase, if thats where you're going you don't want to start from here. I would start with a rectangle, within which I wanted the ellipse to fit and then draw it using the string and 2 pins method, based on foci determined as I described earlier. That way the tangents don't need to...

If you draw a rectangle around the oval so it touches at the four tangent points you can then easily measure off the minor and major axes. Where these cross could be described as the centre. To determine the 2 foci of the ellipse you draw a circle from one corner, with an arc the length of the...

I would do this with a router rotated around a pivot point. I have a 6mm MDF false base on one of my routers into which I drill a hole for a pivot pin. You just drill a new hole for each new diameter of circle you need. You would need to fix the waste part (the core from the hole) to the main...

It also works if you just paste it in. Ed

I've read good things about them, but don't know of any UK stockists. Ed

I remember reading somewhere that the mouth was further back on the Veritas than the Stanley original, thereby giving a larger registration area at the start of the cut. Ed

You really must start using a hammer as recommended earlier! :lol: Ed

I have also considered milling the end of the hammer to function as a chipbreaker screwdriver as in these Glen-Drake plane adjustment hammers; It would still work on a round stock hammer head. Ed

I agree Bill does some amazing work. I almost feel like buying him a heater for his shed so he can keep working and blogging all year round, rather than just in the summer months! Ed

I have very limited experience of wooden planes, but the few taps I made on the heel of the plane I did for secret santa left no impressions. It is end grain after all and in a wood like Goncalo Alves its pretty resilient. I think on a plane with a metal lever cap and screw you can be a bit...

I agree, I would use a hammer :lol:

Often thought about it, but never done it. This site is good reading for a start; http://www.xmission.com/~jry/ww/tools/a13/a13.html and the blogs of Konrad Sauer and Karl Holtey are good for inspiration and something to aim for. Oh and Welsh plane expert Aled Dafis, who will appear shortly...

Well they're both pretty hard as well, so my same comment applies - is it soft enough compared to the brass to make it worth bothering?

Well done that man, I also have the 733 but it was a bridge too far to go out and start taking pictures of it at this time of night! Ed

I was thinking of a wooden face on one end of my hammer. I was planning to bore a hole in the brass and then turn a small spigot on the wood bit and epoxy it in, before turning the 2 together to finished size. Only thing I wondered about, was that if I use a hardwood (say rosewood for example)...

That size makes sense for a chisel hammer - it sounds like the Glen Drake one, which is something I had a notion of copying one day when I get the chance. Ed

I've not seen the article, but that size of stock sounds a bit hefty for a plane adjusting hammer to me. I've always seen them as a small delicate thing for precise taps. Ed

I wish I had - it was a slow process doing it the way I did. I have a vertical slide for my lathe, so I mount that on the cross slide and effectively get a 3 axis milling machine laying on its side, with the cutter mounted in the chuck. It has a very limited capacity as its only a small lathe...

I couldn't post the hammer I'd made when this thread came round, as it was covert, being secret santa and all that. Here it is - brass head 19mm dia, about 70mm long and cocobolo handle. I prefer the milled slot to a round hole as I feel its more positive for the handle fitting. Going to make...

I have Bostitch 16g and 18g nailers, bought back when I was more of a Normite. They don't get used very often but I am always impressed by the quality when I do use them. Ed