Plane Hammer

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Ed - I would not hit my woodies with any form of metal plane, brass or not. I use a BIG lignum mallett to rap the back of my PP's, and there is not a mark in sight.

Obviously the metal hammer is used for increasing the depth of cut by tapping the blade.

Cheers

Karl
 
I have very limited experience of wooden planes, but the few taps I made on the heel of the plane I did for secret santa left no impressions. It is end grain after all and in a wood like Goncalo Alves its pretty resilient.

I think on a plane with a metal lever cap and screw you can be a bit more delicate as you can release the pressure on the blade without having to give the back of the plane a bit clout, the taps on the back with the screw slightly slackened off are only to reduce the depth of cut. With a traditional wedge you need quite a hit to release the wedge.

I can see why you wouldn't want to damage the back of your planes, but is a hardwood face any less harsh than brass?

Ed
 
I have also considered milling the end of the hammer to function as a chipbreaker screwdriver as in these Glen-Drake plane adjustment hammers;

MS-GDPLHXX_big.gif


It would still work on a round stock hammer head.

Ed
 
Ed - i've just realised that the SS plane you made had a lever cap instead of a wedge. The PhillyPlanes I have (and a HNT Gordon Smoother) all use a wedge.

The wedge is removed by rapping the back of the plane. The tighter the fit of the wedge, the harder the knock required to release the wedge. A metal plane will mark the back of the plane, end grain or not. DAMHIK!

My PhillyPlanes are all Goncalo Alves; the HNT is Ironwood.

Cheers

Karl
 
Karl":15f36hw5 said:
A metal plane will mark the back of the plane, end grain or not. DAMHIK!

You really must start using a hammer as recommended earlier! :lol:

Ed
 
Wow - twice in one night. Those kids have frazzled my brain!

Cheers

Karl
 
Aled - I cannot remember the exact figures but they were very reasonably priced - I think under £20 at the time?
Anyway cheap enough to tempt me, but I resisted in the end!

Mr Ed - I used boxwood in mine which has not damaged my woodies so far?

Rod
 
Well they say there's nothing new under the sun. I just found this (about halfway down the page)

http://www.daedtoolworks.com/blog/2010/ ... e-day.html

which is exactly how I imagined I'd like to make it. Not sure I'll be able to do it on my wood lathe tho. Worth a try. It's working out how to do the threaded part for the wood attachment. I'm thinking along the lines of gluing a piece of threaded rod in the end. Any ideas?
 
It's lovely Ed. Tho, for some reason I want a dual head one. Which is probably making it too complicated. Maybe I should do one in brass and one with gonc.
 
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