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Ian can get you the right size just with the bandsaw details. Malcolm

The spalted beech is very good for bandsaw boxes, I use it quite often and you can see some of those on my web site and I'm just making a few more at present. Get the ideas by looking up (google) bandsaw box designs and you will find loads. Some are easy to do but as you get into it, you should...

It's not only the blade quality for smaller jobs with tight turns, it is also the tuning up of the bandsaw. You may already have seen several methods by different people, but the one I like is shown on this video by Alex Snodgrass, However, it is not necessary to remove the table as he states...

Absolutely superb Brian. With the difficulties you have to overcome, your work in this field is some of the very best I have seen and you can be well proud of what you have achieved. Very well done. Malcolm

Welcome Kev. Hope the move goes well and that you will soon be able to get youir workshop up and running. Unless you are planning to take over another 'local' shop, newly built. Malcolm

I know the great following in the USA and I was reading the reviews and looking at the users video's before I purchased. Over here it's a limited market for those wanting to use smaller blades, but the cost for us adds shipping and import duty to pay, which effectively doubles the price to UK...

Exactly so Steve, I've never regreted buying the Stabilizer, but for most it is unnecessary. Malcolm

Thinking about the logic of curves. If you have conventional guides that are designed to keep the blade running in a straight line, ( not the only possibility as some may think), if you turn too quickly, the blade will create heat and burn the timber and could possibly cause the blade to break...

Just for a change I decided to change the grain to a verticle on the latest sculptured bandsaw box, which I think looks rather attractive, particularly on the end grain of this spalted beech. But I didn't change the Zebrano grain although I may think about it next time around, Malcolm

Anything here ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/16203600 ... pla&crdt=0

Very smart. Malcolm

If the 'cut out' is larger than the line, it doesn't matter where the hole is. Cut near the line and take the rest out. If oit is only the line and you need to retain everything, then you need a fine drill bit of 1mm or less, just enough to get the blade in, then it shouldn't show. Fine drill...

Drills delivered today, no problem other than one size being out of stock, which should be in on Monday. Now I have a few sizes of long drills for scrollsaw work. Malcolm

The Record range have a 5 year guarantee ands if you buy when there is a tool show on, then you can often get a discount and free delivery. Could be worth tryng for the BS350 perhaps?. I have the BS400 and it's a great machine. Got £100 off and free delivery when I bought from a show. There...

http://www.theperiodglasscompany.co.uk/ ... GwodSBsBfA

Welcome Chris. Hope you enjoy the forum and get loads of benefits from all the info available. Malcolm

This may help and there are other videos on the same page. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk-xDjH5BKw Malcolm

Hi John, welcome to the forum and hope you can learn a lot more as time pases. What sort of woodwork are you into so far? Malcolm

You are correct Steve, I have no vested interest whatsoever in Carter Products, it's just that having used the Stabilizer for some time and on a regular basis, I believe in it. With a blade having the ability to twist sideways, rather than stay flat between guides, gives it a definate advantage...

The BS400 and most other bandsaws, cannot take lower than a 1/4" blade and even then the setup needs to be very carefully done to prevent the blade's teeth being flattened by side guides, Steve has been using the 2mm MDF supports for some time very successfully and he has even gone to a 1/16"...