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DiscoStu

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I'm looking to make something similar to this:

060b6a9f7f1b274d6d6cfefdf91d82a9.png


How can I get the writing on there?

It's for a wedding so looking to do something very similar.


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There are quite a few places that do laser inscriptions for house signs. They're generally a bit coarser than the fine cursive script in your photo, but if you're willing to compromise on the type face they'd get the job done.

Good luck!
 
Rorschach":1ge48rc1 said:
I'd probably do the laser printer-iron method for that.

What's the laser printer iron on method? Does it just mean print back to from and then iron on over the wood?


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DiscoStu":2wmw3vuy said:
What's the laser printer iron on method? Does it just mean print back to front and then iron on over the wood?

Laser print a reversed image on glossy photo paper and iron it onto the wood. I've done this several times and it does work. Print a few and practice on some scrap first though, it can be a bit 'hit & miss'.

Apparently the iron-on-paper t-shirt paper stuff is better, but I haven't tried that. I think that may only be for inkjet though?
 
inkjet waterslide transfer paper, or stencil and spray. I'd go stencil and spray, only because I have a vinyl cutter. :)
 
I thought I might turn a handle! :)

I also thought I might dovetail the sides to make the box.

It was just the general idea I liked. I'll probably make it in oak.
 
Personally i'd go the laser engraved or cnc routed way.

You could infill the letters with something interesting and scrape it flush to produce a more striking effect.

I've found print on wood doesn't tend to look great after a while whereas etching, engraving or routing it will stand the test of time.

I must admit I think i'd re-design the handle as well, that one would pinch your hand like a so and so!!

Nice gift for the couple though.

P.s. you could go the really upmarket route and have an etched brass plate made and fit that into a recessed aperture. looks very stylish especially when combined with a nice dark timber like walnut or rosewood.
 
You may find my previous post on this helpful

how-to-print-on-wood-t96899.html

transatlantic":xxylcttk said:
I decided to try the acetone/thinner approach again with a different solvent and got excellent results.

- I used 'Cellulose Thinner'. The one I used was from Wilko, Cellulose Thinners 125ml £2.75 http://www.wilko.com/wallpaper-paste+pr ... vt/0182560
- Print your template using a laser printer (try and set the toner settings to 'Extra Dark' if you can)
- Stick your template face down firmly using tape so that it can't move and smudge
- Using a paint brush, apply a VERY minimal amount of the thinner to the back of the template, just enough to soak through. It's very easy to apply too much which will be too strong and create a blurred transfer.
- Using the back of a spoon, apply a lot of pressure, rubbing over the template several times.
- peel off the template and you should have a very clear, very sharp transfer

It took a few attempts to work out how much thinner to apply, but am very pleased with the results.

Results :

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@discostu:

Have you got (or can you get access to) a decent scroll saw?

This lettering (there's quite a lot of it) and the font is a LOT of work, but given patience and a bit of practice, you could produce a very attractive look which would last as long as the rest of the "box".

Look at the scroll saw section here as quite a few people do lettering of various types/sizes (including me, though personally I've not tried something that ambitious), and for basic how to do it, Google someone like Mike's Scroll Saw Workshop.

In (very) brief, you use a word processor on the PC to sort out the font, size, etc, etc, that you want, work out the "join-ups" if it's not a stencil font, print it out on a normal inkjet on normal paper, then cut out the paper template, stick it onto the wood, drill small holes into every letter for the blade entry, and "off you go". But I do warn you it IS both fiddly and VERY time-consuming, and is particularly difficult to get double letters which are adjacent looking exactly the same (I did a little box for my wife's - Swiss - girlfriend who's name is Jeannette - yup, that's how she spells it - and it drove me absolutely potty)! See attached.

But it does produce a permanent effect and you can even do something like a laminate the front panel, cutting the lettering into the front half then glue the rear half to it so that the lettering only goes half deep. Looks good (IMHO) - IF the lettering's even!

HTH

AES

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I do have a scroll saw but it doesn't work - needs to be looked at. I've never used it though. I could easily simplify the lettering to just J & H and not worry about a date. So that is an option. Thanks for the ideas and information guys. A few things a food for thought / testing.


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OK DiscoStu. If you do decide to go the scroll saw route and have questions just ask away on the Scroll Saw section. there are plenty of real experts there, not just "amateurs" like me.

AES
 
Hi Stu. I will laser engrave it for you free of charge if you post the side of the box to me. I have been laser engraving timber for over 10 years now with 2 different lasers. There seems to be a bit of confusion out there as to the quality of work a laser can produce and some of the methods here are a bit long winded and hit or miss. This is in the main due a combination of laser owners not knowing how to correctly use one and a lot of cheap inferior chinese lasers out there. All I ask you to do is include an SAE so I can just stick it in the post box to send it back to you.
If you wish to use pine I can engrave it a bit deeper so you can colour fill it any colour you wish. Although pine engraves well you do not get the colour differential between the engraved area and the other wood. Beech and sycamore work really well with both the crispness of the engraving and the colour. Oak is ok but you do not get the crispness of detail on smaller lettering etc as it is an open grained timber.
If you wish to take me up on my offer please pm me and we can go from there.

Mike
 
Mike, forgive my lack of reply I've been on holiday with no signal. Thank you for your offer. Incredibly kind and generous. I am intending to use oak but I can go for quite large lettering if that helps. I'm probably still a couple of weeks away from starting the project but I will PM you nearer the time. Many thanks. I'll probably also have a play with the laser printing transfer option as that would be easy to try, however the etching sounds fab as it wants to be a quality piece.

Thanks to all for all the info.


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Mike, forgive my lack of reply I've been on holiday with no signal. Thank you for your offer. Incredibly kind and generous. I am intending to use oak but I can go for quite large lettering if that helps. I'm probably still a couple of weeks away from starting the project but I will PM you nearer the time. Many thanks. I'll probably also have a play with the laser printing transfer option as that would be easy to try, however the etching sounds fab as it wants to be a quality piece.

Thanks to all for all the info.


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Ha Ha, thought you were ignoring me! Forgot all you guys in Englandshire are a few weeks behind us up here in Scotland when it comes to the summer holidays!. Look forward to you getting in touch.

Mike
 
No just been in Devon for a few weeks, it's like going back 20 years with no internet available anywhere. In my days teenagers gathered in a field for a rave these days they gather because their is a mast and they can get 3G, they'll be a riot when 4g makes it to the West Country.


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