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Back problems seem to drag on for weeks and months without any improvement, but then can clear up in the space of a few days. Hope you start to recover soon Coley.

Depends how picky you are. If you're aiming for perfection then you start with the sliding table's "axis of travel", this is the fundamental reference, the saw blade and the cross cut and rip fences are all set relative to that. Regarding the sliding table being higher than the main table...

I've heard of some nasty accidents with push sticks, the problem is that when you start to push the workpiece through saw blade you hold the push stick higher up at an angle of say 45 degrees, but as the workpiece gets further away there's a tendency to lower your hand to extend your reach...

Trying to identify timber from photos is little more than guesswork, you often get better clues from the context rather than the actual photos. You're in Guernsey, it's a fair bet that boat building will have resulted in plenty of Teak going to the island, so maybe it is the real thing. Plus it...

That's an interesting option. Many cabinet makers use something very similar for shooting the edges of saw cut veneers. Incidentally, I don't think the Router Boss is all that much of an improvement on the WoodRat, some of the supposed advantages, like the laser pointer and dust extraction...

That may well be true, but even without that problem they're still going to be painfully slow compared to an experienced kitchen guy. I'm a full time furniture maker with a professionally equipped workshop, but whenever I do fitted work, or something in sheet goods, it always takes me twice as...

When sanding marquetry it's all too easy to drive sawdust from the darker timber into the pores of any open grained, paler timber. If that happens you're absolutely stuffed, you'll never get it out and it looks terrible.

The problem with the second one is that it pushes the tenons inboard on the legs, which in turn means the tenons have to be shorter or they'll interfere with each other. I guess a foot stool isn't a highly stressed joint, unlike say a chair or a table, so you'd probably get away with it. Nice...

I remember commenting on how impressive your kitchen build was, but none the less I don't entirely agree with this. The problem with the lower grades of ply is that many of the imperfections, and indeed even the patched imperfections, can telegraph through paint and still be visible. A lot...

That's certainly the best place to stand, but there's no where in the workshop that's 100% guaranteed to be out of the firing line. Some while ago Peter Sefton posted about a professional sawyer who was doing a repeat cross cutting operation, with small off-cuts building up on the table next...

I use a Router Boss as a kind of versatile, multi-purpose jig for compound chair joints. It's not exactly the same as a Woodrat but it's pretty similar, and I believe the two machines share quite a few extras. If you go to about 6:50 in this video you see one of many possible mitre arrangements...

Fascinating stuff! Instead of forming the curved rebate from the solid, couldn't two pieces have been glued together to deliver the rebate that way?

If you want to stain timber black using tannin/iron stain, then the very best source of tannin are ground up Oak Galls. Strong tea and stewed oak bark are both excellent (and more convenient) alternatives, but for the very best, deep blue/black then use Oak Galls. Right now I'm seeing loads on...

That's thicker than usual, most commercial veneers are 0.6mm. Even if you make your own saw cut veneers you wouldn't normally exceed 1.2mm thick (1.5mm at the absolute max), unless you were "cladding" onto a solid timber substrate. So, the answer to your question is yes, you're fine with that...

No, I use a Felder. Most Felder and Hammer machines are dado stack compatible, and the company sell a range of dado and grooving blades to suit. Personally I prefer to use either a router or a spindle moulder, but occasionally a dado stack makes sense so I keep one on hand. If I had the...

Planed, or thicknessed?

+1 I just watched a video review and putting the safety aspect on one side, it's an impressively well built machine. There are loads of little (and not so little) details that would make this a serious contender even if you ignore the autostop. -massive cast iron table (is there anything...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhhjqDWf95E

Didn't spot that. Good to have at least one qualified person in the discussion.

-the outfeed table, instead of being flat, slopes down toward the cutter block -the knives are blunt and are lifting the front of the workpiece -operator error, failing to apply consistent pressure As long as the error's very small it's often not that much of a problem, subsequent passes...