Draper 200mm Cast Iron Table saw £200 ?!?!

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I am sure that this was an error by Barnes as they are still selling the base saw for £418. Congratulations to those who got in on it in time; I just wheeled mine into my garage :)
 
It's not an error, they made a huge banner on their website advertising the deal with the words "yes really £200", or somethign to that effect if I remember correctly.
 
I bought one of these, courtesy of this thread, and it was delivered today. It is to use as a site saw in my new kitchen build, as the workshop is quite a way away and for this price it's a no brainer. Number 1 offspring is assembling it currently. There are some manufacturing issues, such as holes drilled in the wrong places for one of the legs. Will report further when done. At £220 all in, for saw, stand, extension table etc, they are practically giving it away.

Came on a pallet, fully intact and undamaged, shrink wrapped. Nothing missing. Order to delivery was 2 days.
 
Hi,

Mine arrived today, bit of a heavy beast so as soon as I have it sorted some sort of mobile stand will be a priority.

Notice I said when I "sort it" as I need some help!

Started it when I got in tonight from work tonight so really I should have left it until the morning.

Got the stand built, and yes one of the legs needed drilling as the holes were different to the other 3.

Ive attached the front and back rails and started to look at fitting the right side table extension. I don't know why but even by sight it was going to be nowhere near fitting between to 2 rails and looks about 5 to 6 inches short and just falls through the gap, however looking at the picture it looks as though the rails are correct.

Another thing I must have got wrong (again it must be the rails) is that the guide fence only fits on the front rail and nothing to the back one therefore it wobbles.

I assumed the brackets on what the rails were correct as they arrived in that position from the factory but it must be something wrong with these but have to admit they look right according to the picture?

Any advice would be appreciated just so I can have a fresh start tomorrow.

Regards
phil
 
OK, now fully assembled and run up. Took my 21 year old son son 2 hours, including re-drilling a couple of stand pieces. To be fair he is training as an aeronautical engineer and has been doing stuff on the tools and most of the time was spent making the stand pieces fit and doing 32 bolts to put it together! Assembly is easy and instructions are clear.

The only other issues we had were the two adjustment levers for the sliding table fences are flimsy and the threads stripped. Won't take two ticks to replace them. Blade as fitted ran true and square, and the riving knife slotted in easily and true to the blade. The instructions say 3mm to 5mm blade clearance, but 5mm was the best we could do without alterations.

The motor is an induction unit and is quiet. Cast iron tables are dead flat.

Given that for £220 you get the saw, with a decent induction motor, extension table, sliding table, mitre fence, sliding table fences, clamp and a reasonably good TCT blade, this is a ridiculously cheap deal. I already have a shop table saw, big chop saw, big bandsaw, Mafell track saw, and very good jig saws, I could have managed without this. But I am making a big kitchen and utility, 200metres or so from my workshop, and will be doing a lot of sheet goods for walls and units, I bought this to go in the kitchen (which is a huge room) as a cheap site saw. It is amazing value for money. Buy one while you can.
 
Phil, the second cast iron table does NOT go between the long rails. You will have 2 pressed steel black panels for that. The separate cast iron table goes on the left of the blade and forms the sliding table.

Just follow the instructions sequentially. It's well made and everything fits.
 
Also, if you have assembled it correctly, the right hand guide fence locks in perfectly and does not wobble. If I knew how to post pictures I would.
 
I must have got lucky with my stand, it assembled very easily, all the holes were in the correct locations.
Not managed to fit the extensions etc yet as I am waiting for the cover to arrive, hopefully get it sorted out by next week.
 
I bought one as well and am quite impressed with it for £200. TNT managed to damage one of the boxes so need a new NVR switch as a result.
My son and I assembled it this afternoon - it all went together fine. Could do with some work on the dust collection, but for £200 its a very good deal.

Thanks Scaredycat for your post.
 
The dust collection would probably be improved by cutting a hole in the base and taking a second outlet from there, as collection currently is just from the blade guard on top. This is not a brilliant shroud so has limitations. For a small and very cheap machine, and only used so far to cut up two 8 by 4 ply sheets, I find the dust collection to be OK. When Lidl had their vacuum cleaner promotion on recently, I bought two, so have dedicated one to this saw as in effect a site machine.
 
This is the assembled saw just prior to clean down for use. The sliding table guides are just on to show all the parts. This is in the barn I am about to convert into a kitchen.
 

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AJB Temple":2yib4aud said:
The dust collection would probably be improved by cutting a hole in the base and taking a second outlet from there, as collection currently is just from the blade guard on top. This is not a brilliant shroud so has limitations. For a small and very cheap machine, and only used so far to cut up two 8 by 4 ply sheets, I find the dust collection to be OK. When Lidl had their vacuum cleaner promotion on recently, I bought two, so have dedicated one to this saw as in effect a site machine.

You missed the internal collection port which collect dust straight from the saw blade. No idea how effective it is as I have not tried mine yet, but you do get 2 point collection.
 
Sounds like we have an offspring assembly error! Will check. Edit, offspring informs me internal extraction was fitted but that I wasn't paying attention.
 
Got this more or less done with the nightmare I had last night as I had a few issues.

First the wobbly fence, problem there was I didn't have the 2 bolts fully tightened so that was easly sorted and now appears quite sturdy, however I still think it would have been better if it also ran within the back rail, again no complaints with the way it is.

Also sorted the right hand tables done, as AJT suggested as was using the wrong pieces!

Only thing I need to tweak now is the sliding table as it runs slightly offline?

Would this make any difference though as long as the sliding angle fence is set square to the blade, or am I missing something? and it's also slightly higher than the main table, is that right? (sorry I'm not that savvy as you'll have noticed)

Also......the sliding angle fence, which end do you slide on first or does it make any difference as I noticed one end is different (like a plastic lip) to the other as each way I try it seems quite tight?

Any advice on this would be areciated and you never I know I might actually try and cut a piece of wood on it today!

Regards
Phil
 
phil p":kpq0fnww said:
Only thing I need to tweak now is the sliding table as it runs slightly offline?

Would this make any difference though as long as the sliding angle fence is set square to the blade, or am I missing something? and it's also slightly higher than the main table, is that right?

Depends how picky you are. If you're aiming for perfection then you start with the sliding table's "axis of travel", this is the fundamental reference, the saw blade and the cross cut and rip fences are all set relative to that.

Regarding the sliding table being higher than the main table, there's some room for individual preference here. If you mainly cut sheet goods some sawyers prefer the sliding table to be about 0.5mm above the main table, if you mainly cut solid timber it's more common to have the two dead flush.

Whilst still surfing that wave of enthusiasm with a new saw, it's a good idea to check the trunnion alignment. Take the saw blade progressively up to full height and check the blade's alignment at different points in the travel. When it's at full height crank it over to 45 degrees and run through the thickest board that the saw can accommodate. If there's any scorching or excessive saw marks on just one side then the trunnions are out of alignment and will need adjusting or shimming, details should be in the manual.
 
The wheels under the sliding table can be adjusted as they on eccentric cams, hopefully that would be enough. Otherwise I guess you could widen the holes on the bracket so you can change the angle of the aluminium bar it slides on.

I think the plastic lip is meant to go towards the blade, essentially a way of getting the fence as close as possible with the safety factor if you run it into the blade.
 
Firstly, thanks for the heads up on this. Took a punt when i saw the thread last weekend and my saw arrived two days later. All parts present, very happy.

Just a quick question though... does anyone know how to adjust the tilt of the blade back past 90 degrees but in the opposite direction? Mine is just a fraction out from 90, but the tilt mechanism won't go any further.
 
Not sure, mine was square to the table, although admittedly I didn't spend long checking it. It's been out in the shed since, neglected (school holidays) but once the little darlings go back to continue their studies I plan on giving it a full inspection and doing any necessary micro adjustments. I'll update here with any problems/ solutions I find
 
Since this thread has got rather long now and several members seem to have bought one, I wonder if it might be a good idea to start a separate owners thread where we can post about problems, adjustments, modifications etc.?
 
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