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I tried cleaning out the grooves with alcohol as recommended. I didn't notice that the cleaning process had any effect. (In other words, I didn't see gunk in there that was removed by cleaning.) I put the blade back in service and still find that I have clogging problems. Here's a...

So does that French plane have a toothed blade? Lee Valley has suggested that the rust preventative that they smear on the blade might make the grooves sticky. I admit that I didn't try to thoroughly clean out the grooves when I was cleaning the anti-rust gunk off the blade. So I'll give...

It may be that stuff is catching on the, uh, back side of the mouth. (Is that still part of the mouth? The part that's underneath the blade?) I can't exactly move that back. But I'm not sure that the back side of the mouth is really playing a role either. This clogging is most problematic...

This is a bevel up plane with grooves down the back. Those grooves are down and it is the grooves that fill up with crud and clog. So the mouth of the plane stays clear, but the grooves in the blade behind the edge on the bottom of the plane fill up. Then I have a bunch of little teeny tiny...

I recently got the BU toothed blade for the Veritas jack and I put it to work on a piece of 14" wide figured timber (is your belt sander up to this job?). I find that I do not get tear out, but the grooves clog fairly quickly and are fairly difficult to unclog. The clogging doesn't...

The Kell was the first guide I found that seemed able to hold the Japanese chisels, but I am still struggling because I find it very difficult to set it for repeated use, and as I'm trying to sharpen at 35 degrees, the extension is very short, and very sensitive to slight changes. (Actually...

Right now I'm dovetailing a carcass together, so my focus has shifted. I imagine it may be a month before I need to do more shooting, as everything is cut to length now (except I didn't make the feet yet). But eventually I'll get back to it and try grinding the blade back a hair to see...

So you would recommend that I grind the blade back and see if its performance improves? How much should I grind back?

So you're saying you don't like the back bevel option? In your previous post you said they are bad if you freehand and they make stropping impossible. But if I don't freehand and don't strop...is there still some reason to avoid back bevels?

So it appears that my options to get rid of this chipping problem are: 1. grind the blade back but keep the same angle (why would this work?) 2. hone the blade higher than its current 27 degrees 3. Install a back bevel (which I understand cannot exceed 7 degrees because of the need for a 5...

So in my case, with microchipping, you would regrind? But why would regrinding stop the blade from chipping the next time? How thick should end grain shavings be? Thanks for the pictures and references to the articles. If you must chamfer the back then that means you can't decide to...

Why would you need to regrind? I am using a blade that has been honed but not yet ground back. Do you find that 60 degrees is just as good as the 42 degrees provided by a 30 degree bevel in a bevel up plane? When you say "if you are concerned" use 30 degrees...well, let's just say that the...

That's interesting. I'd never seen a bevel down low angle plane before. What angle do you hone the blade at?

Did all the people who said they got better results with higher angles tell us that they were using A2?

This does seem like the key question. I think it's interesting that almost everyone who has replied so far has said they use a higher effective pitch. But we don't know why they find the low angle edge to give an inferior result. (Is it because everyone is using A2 and it can't handle the...

People often say that a low cutting angle is best for end grain. I was trying out my new shooting board with a sort-of-new Veritas low angle jack plane fitted with an A2 blade sharpened with a straight edge at around 27 degrees for an effective pitch around 39. The workpiece is American...

This saw looks similar to the Japanese saw from Lee Valley in its shape. That saw has a 0.28 mm thick blade. The reviewer in the magazine article said that because the blade was both thin and narrow it was very responsive to wrist movements, which means it's easy to mar the work surface. A...

Thanks very much to, matthewwh, for answering my questions. I'm curious how much material you think could joint before needing to hone. Obviously you can't give a precise answer, since it depends on how many shavings I need to take and the wood and so on, but would you think I'd need to hone...

I was talking here about the Veritas blade that is sold as a replacement for a Stanley #7, not a blade meant for one of the Veritas planes. I had the impression that all of the Stanley #7 replacement blades would work and I'm aware of one from Veritas, the Hock, and the Ray Iles (D2).

If this is really true then I never had a `sharp' blade. I had one particularly troublesome grain reversal where I specifically went and honed the blade but I still got some tendency to tear out one one side or the other. (This one had had a 5 mm knot in it which I had extracted and filled.)...