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I agree with power tool try retightening/cutting and all should be well.

With a unknown background (the old walls ) use a resin bond where you drill a hole clean out well inject two part mix and insert threaded rod then fix frame to rods fill voids with foam or mastic scribe and cut trim to tidy up.Try and incorporate glass in the frames for free light . There are...

I would have used a cross halving joint or just used metal joist hangers my self in fact my own work shop flat roof uses metal joist hangers.

The switches for power and reset on my computer can stick in the operated position, can not see how this relates to your situation but worth a check.

Does this helphttp://www.stapeley1.plus.com/manual_aw106pt.pdf and its 3 blades if its the same m/c. I took my blades to local hire shop and they got them sharpened just a note they are a pain to reset as they have a spring under them. Post again if you require more info

I always thought the paper bag was for the bottom of the set up top expells the air, bottom catches solids.My extractor is out side the shop so no problems with fine dust. I agree with DaveL post

Mains tester toolstation £0.97 page 59 looks like a screwdriver touch it on live wire with finger on the side contact and it lights up. Some fans with a timer need a permanent live and a switched live ,neutral & earth so that the fan can run after its switched off (yours may not if the pull...

I would have thought 2"thick timbers would be fine for sistering and noggins its the depth that gives strength, you can use joist hangers and screws for noggins to keep damage to a minimum if required ,a nail gun would help a lot for sistering.Also you can get rid of the 1/2" dip by the way you...

Its a two threads situation:-https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16957&highlight= or short answer no

This is developing have a look at this http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/load-bearing_walls.htm I read it as beams should be 220x75 at 600 for a span of 4.64m for the current regs. So you could put in lots of noggins and still have some bounce, or put extra beams along side and fixed to...

I do not have the correct info for you ,but you need a smooth sub floor with no unsupported joints that is glued and screwed to joists to eliminate creaking. That can hold the nails that fix the oak, others may know if something is required between the oak and subfloor

As you can see i am interested https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16814&highlight=

Zone alarm is the usual answer but i have just got vista and like a lot of soft ware its not happy so i am back to windows at the moment.

You could have a look on ebay to get idea of s/h price of this 3 phase kit.

Having missed a number for sale on here recently, its for the standard size groove as used on SIP table saw ,thought i would try a wanted add please PM.

If SHMBO must have slate my idea is, sheet and felt with the good stuff (that self seals nails ) then counter batten and batten and replace the slates as the problem is wind blown rain the felt deals with it and the slates work the rest of the time. Roof will only be a sheet + felt+counter...

I have looked in What Hifi for answers to these type of questions in the past.

Hitch has a good idea i think, plug in ringer in the shop and the instrument some where dust proof much more comfortable.

As you may be aware i came by some hard wood recently mainly oak and ash this was the sides and ends that were not used by a joinery manufacturer which had been stored in the dry for some time. The usual defects were present and I have cut most of them out, but i would still allow 20% wastage...

This may help :-https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8118&highlight=