SAW-TOOTH SETTING ADVICE

[Argus]

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Bit in the dark on this one.

I have some tenon and dovetail saws with small teeth in the order of 16 - 22 to to the inch.

Having been repeatedly sharpened in the past, the set is rapidly disappearing.

The saw-setters I have are far too big for these saws.

What methods are there to re-set the teeth, given that I may have to file and re-level the whole lot of teeth on at last one of them?



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[woodbloke]

I think you may be between a 'rock and a hard place' here. As far as I'm aware there are no saw sets available to set the teeth on finer saws such as d/t's. There is/was a rumour that LN were bringing out one (or was that the honing guide? :duno: )
In any event, I'd be interested in a saw set capable of sorting out dovetail saws [-o< - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

Tools for Working Wood in the USA do a saw set that is suitable for saws with 12 - 26 pt, so they are available http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merc ... ry_Code=TH

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[SammyP64]

I could have sworn on one of the Lie Nielsen youtube video's with Thomas, he shows or at least says how to adapt or adjust an outstanding saw set,
most modern ones ive seen are a bad of crap to say the least, so i would have thought either adjusting an old one of a certain auction site or getting one from TFWW would be the best option for you here,

Hope to have helped!

Sam

 

[pedder]

I have some tenon and dovetail saws with small teeth in the order of 16 - 22 to to the inch. The saw-setters I have are far too big for these saws.

What methods are there to re-set the teeth, given that I may have to file and re-level the whole lot of teeth on at last one of them?

I make a lot of saws from 18-20tpi. I use a eclipse 77. I've filed the hammer part smaller.

There are many who say it won't work. Please don't tell that my eclipse77.:lol:

Cheers
Pedder

 

[TrimTheKing]

I have some tenon and dovetail saws with small teeth in the order of 16 - 22 to to the inch. The saw-setters I have are far too big for these saws.

What methods are there to re-set the teeth, given that I may have to file and re-level the whole lot of teeth on at last one of them?

I make a lot of saws from 18-20tpi. I use a eclipse 77. I filed the hammer part smaller.

There are many who say it won't work. Please don't tell that my eclipse77.:lol:

Cheers
Pedder

Hi pedder

I have been buying up a few 77's off ebay for this very purpose, but haven't go t clue how small to go with the filing, or exactly where to file. Also, I have read that to get the best from it you really need to file the anvil too.

Is there any chance you could post a few close up pics of yours so I know where to start?

Sorry for hijacking the post.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Sportique]

Peddar

ditto as Mark says

Thanks

Dave

 

[Shrubby]

Japanese company Somax produce them - they look like the ones in the link posted
I've got two baby ulmia mitre blades to sharpen so my Eclipse is getting some fettling.
Matt

 

[Eric The Viking]

I have been buying up a few 77's off ebay for this very purpose, but haven't got clue how small to go with the filing, or exactly where to file. Also, I have read that to get the best from it you really need to file the anvil too.

Don't you need to shim the anvil slightly rather than file it? Small teeth = less set. Either that or just squeeze less hard (consistency would be difficult, I can see). My Eclipse only goes down to 12 point, so I'm in the same boat really.

Sorting this out will be the next big hand-tool fettling session for me - I've three or four saws waiting to be properly sharpened at the moment, including two tenons and a Spear & Jackson cross-cut panel saw, which was salvaged from the tip complete with cardboard sleeve!

 

[pedder]

]Hi pedder

I have been buying up a few 77's off ebay for this very purpose, but haven't go t clue how small to go with the filing, or exactly where to file. Also, I have read that to get the best from it you really need to file the anvil too.

Is there any chance you could post a few close up pics of yours so I know where to start?

Sorry for hijacking the post.

Cheers

Mark

Hi Mark, I'm about 250km away from the set but I'll try to make pictures on the weekend.

Cheers Pedder

 

[matthewwh]

Hammer setting is the traditional method for setting fine teeth. I've had a go once with reasonable success, you need to shape the end of a nail to make the hammer, a reasonably sturdy lump of flat steel with an edge filed away for the anvil and something to clamp over the top to prevent the plate from deforming below the toothline. Clamp it all up and then just tap every other tooth over onto the anvil. Flip the saw and do the ones in between and (very) gently stone the sides to ensure that the set is dead level and the saw doesn't track.

 

[bugbear]

Hammer setting is the traditional method for setting fine teeth.

http://toolemera.com/Manufacturers%20&% ... yzack.html

BugBear

 

[xy mosian]

From my distant past, I remember seeing something along the following lines.

Starting with a '77

To take account of the greater number of teeth, therefore their spacing, file the sides of the plunger that moves when the plier handle is gripped. So that the bit that deforms the tooth only works on one tooth at a time.

To reduce the throw, the actual set, pack the bottom of the gullet so that the teeth do not pass as far over the anvil. That is the bit that is rotated to alter the set.

Sorry about the Noddy bits but people have different ideas about the names of things.

I recently bought a new '77 to modify in this way. What a let down. I suppose it just about could be made to work but I'm wondering just what else it could be used for.

HTH
xy

 

[TrimTheKing]

From my distant past, I remember seeing something along the following lines.

Starting with a '77

To take account of the greater number of teeth, therefore their spacing, file the sides of the plunger that moves when the plier handle is gripped. So that the bit that deforms the tooth only works on one tooth at a time.

To reduce the throw, the actual set, pack the bottom of the gullet so that the teeth do not pass as far over the anvil. That is the bit that is rotated to alter the set.

Sorry about the Noddy bits but people have different ideas about the names of things.

I recently bought a new '77 to modify in this way. What a let down. I suppose it just about could be made to work but I'm wondering just what else it could be used for.

HTH
xy

Thanks for this xy, but what does this bit mean? And how?

...pack the bottom of the gullet...

Cheers

 

[xy mosian]

Trim,
In the '77 the sawset is used such that the saw teeth pass over the anvil against the bottom of the 'gullet'. This ensures that all the teeth receive the same amount of set, as defined by the rotation of the anvil, and that the place on the blade at which the set begins is the same for all the teeth.
Now to reduce the amount of set, outside the limits of the rotating anvil, all that is needed is to place the saw over the anvil without going to full depth. This is best achieved repeatedly by packing out the bottom of the gullet. This can be done with almost anything, for one blade a thickness of plastic, for a permanent job a piece of metal. Chosen for longer wear. I would suggest double sided tape so that the packing can be removed. the thickness of the packing I'll leave for you to choose.
As a matter of interest I have read of people who only sharpen fine toothed saws, no setting, relying on the burrs left by filing to give all the clearance needed.
If my scanner will work I'll attempt a sketch.

Perhaps I have thought of a better explanation. Take a '77 and put it on a saw as if to use. The bottom of the gullet is the place where the teeth rest.

HTH
xy

 

[xy mosian]

If anyone's looking I've just spotted these:-
Two '77's for sale.

http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/cat_leaf.php?id=743


xy

 

[bugbear]

This is best achieved repeatedly by packing out the bottom of the gullet.

When talking about saws, a "gullet" is the gap between teeth. This can't be what you're talking about (I can't see a way to pack all those little triangles) - so what do you mean by "gullet"?

BugBear

 

[TrimTheKing]

Trim,
This is best achieved repeatedly by packing out the bottom of the gullet. This can be done with almost anything, for one blade a thickness of plastic, for a permanent job a piece of metal.
xy

Thanks for this xy but I'm afraid I can't picture what you're explaining.

What am I packing? And where? On the anvil, on the saw?

As BB says, the gullet is the gap between teeth, so I'm guessing you mean you put a shim somewhere around the bottom of the gullet so it can only be pushed over so far, but I just can;t picture how or where

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I think he means the gullet in the saw set, it would reduce the amount of set.

Pete

 

[xy mosian]

Pete got it.
" Hi,

I think he means the gullet in the saw set, it would reduce the amount of set.

Pete "

The gullet on the saw set. The gap in the saw set frame that goes over the saw blade when in use. As I said further on " The bottom of the gullet is the place where the teeth rest. " (When the set is in use.) Can anyone think of a better name for it, gap, slot, mouth ?

HTH

xy