Post a photo of the last thing you made

[fezman]

Just before Christmas, my Mum was using an old shoe box to store the nic nacs she uses regularly. Lets just say the shoe box had seen better days.

So she asked for a simple box, of similar dimensions. Now the box lives at the side of, but just under a small chair, so a hinged lid was out of the question. I'd not done any DT's for a while so put this together as much for practice as anything. It's European Pippy Oak, with ABW strips. Finish is Osmo PolyX Clear Gloss.

 

[pulleyt]

I discovered the world of Kumiko on YouTube last year and was intrigued enough to have a go at a simple pattern to use in a side lamp. My inspiration came primarily from videos by Des King, Mike Farrington and Johnny Tromboukis.

The lamp frame is Oak with a coat of Osmo and the Kumiko panels are a friction fit. The panels, which are left unfinished, comprise Lime for the gridwork, Bubinga for the diagonals and Walnut for the in-fill. Now that it's completed I realise that, in a lamp at least, it's much more about the silhouette than the colours of the wood and I'll probably just stick to Lime for the next one.

 

[MikeG.]

Could you show or describe the joints where the three frame pieces meet at the corners?

 

[AndyT]

Fascinating!
Power tools or hand tools?

 

[pulleyt]

Ahhhh, you spotted my dilemma, Mike.
I didn't think the lamp frame construction through thoroughly at the time I pulled the P/T out to prepare the materials (I was too concentrated on the Kumiko pieces).

I'd prepared the Oak to 16mm square, the dimensions coming from what was usable from a board reclaimed timber I had lying around. The concept I was aiming for should have had larger dimension uprights as you have guessed. Given this is a trial piece and shouldn't receive much handling in normal use, I opted to compromise and go for a very weak joint and keep the protrusion feature (can't think of the appropriate technical term at the moment).

The horizontal 'squares' of the frame are made with half-lap joints with an additional 4mm trench cut to allow for a push fit of the upright pieces - this element of the joint being entirely dependent on glue.

I chose the make vertical pieces the push fit joints as gravity would be a help in minimising stresses on the joint. Time will tell if I can get away with it but I wouldn't use this joint again!

 

[pulleyt]

Power tools or hand tools?

I mostly use power tools, Andy. To make the Kumiko strips I prepared a board to 12mm thickness and, using my bandsaw, cut a strip off both edges of the board and then went back to the planer to clean up each edge of the board before repeating. Finally, I cleaned up the sawn edge of the resulting strips in the thicknesser using an 18mm mdf board to allow thicknessing to 4mm for the Kumiok gridwork and 3mm for the in-fill strips.

I bought a 4mm FTG blade from Cutting Solutions recently and use that with a couple of cross-cut sleds on the table saw to cut all the half-lap joints (I'm particularly pleased with how well the FTG blade cuts).

Finally, I used my disc sander to do the majority of the Kumiko shaping using jigs to create the 22.5⁰, 45⁰ and 67.5⁰ angles needed.

 

[MikeG.]

Ahhhh, you spotted my dilemma, Mike.
I didn't think the lamp frame construction through.......

It's a lamp. So long as the switch is detached from the lamp then it should never really need handling. It'll be fine. However, don't attempt to scale that up to a piece of furniture!!

 

[woodbloke66]

Could you show or describe the joints where the three frame pieces meet at the corners?

I did one similar a few years back...Dominos are your friend Mike :lol: - Rob

 

[pulleyt]

However, don't attempt to scale that up to a piece of furniture!!

Indeed. If I'd had thicker stock to hand I wouldn't have used it for this. Definitely a one-off solution

 

[MikeG.]

....Dominos are your friend Mike .....

:lol: Dominoes will never be my friend.

 

[toolsntat]

Not really a furniture worker but footstool made to match existing suite.
Cheers Andy
Now edited with pictures of completed footstool.

 

[MikeG.]

That'll look grand finished, Andy.

 

[El Barto]

Bloody **** there's some good stuff on here lately!

 

[Trevanion]

A pretty quintessential Victorian 6-panel door, not quite done yet, needs a couple more coats of paint.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Not really a furniture worker but made to match existing suite with top to be upholstered.
Cheers Andy

That looks really smart.

 

[Fitzroy]

Modified the Kreg fence I bought on here to fit my Startrite 352. Had to drill a few extra holes and fit a new tape but chuffed with the outcome.

Fence is attached two points to the right of the table slot and one to the left on 20mm spacers. Hope I can slide the blade out without removing the fence just by releasing the left side fixing. Should be ok with any blade <3/4”.

Fitz.

 

[Blackswanwood]

Mahogany and Kevazingo jewellery box ...

 

[MikeG.]

The last two posts are both things I can be pretty certain I'll never be doing! :lol:

 

[Fitzroy]

My woodworking is like a Billy Connolly sketch, it’s very circular and involves lots of tangents, but finally comes back to the start and everything resolves.

I started this desk before the shelves I recently finished, but I put it in my boy’s room rough finished to see how it worked. Two weeks later it had so many books on it I had to build the shelves. Finally back to finish it!

A simple desk made from two boards recycled from an old Victorian wardrobe, perhaps mahogany? Two rails float of the bottom to stiffen across the depth, width wise it’s stiff enough, I considered stopped sliding dovetails but decided they were beyond my ability. Hairpin legs off eBay for £35.

Desk is asymmetrical to account for the space it needs to fit in where it overhangs a radiator. I was worried about the heat making things move but after two months sitting there in the rough it was fine.

I stupidly edge jointed the boards with the grain running the opposite direction on the two boards. This combined with the wood having a real tendency to tear-out made planing the top flat a long process. Sharp irons and fine shavings were the only way forwards. Top is finished with Polyvine, which I’m going to leave to cure a few weeks before I try to finish dead smooth.

Fitz.

 

[MikeG.]

What a piece of luck.....it fits precisely!

That radiator could play havoc with the wood, though.