Post a photo of the last thing you made
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paulrockliffe
Established Member
Fitzroy":1yb1z9dl said:
How did you glue it together? I made one for my brother last Christmas and couldn't get the glue to hold well enough that it wouldn't break in use.
I used some decorative bolts and went for a semi industrial look to sort mine out, which was fine as I made the thing slightly too big to ensure a sore arm in use as a bit of a joke rather than it being designed for everyday use.
Lons
Established Member
SammyQ":1o9upxi0 said:
When I did my teaching cert at the local college a number of years ago I had a choice of some of the elements and wanted powerpoint but as I was teaching that subject at the time the s*ds wouldn't let me :wink: so psychology it had to be and the 2 lecturers who handled that were truly hopeless.
I had a major disagreement with one of them in class and expected a fail but she marked me at 96% which I'm sure was because she was scared I'd report her.
SammyQ
Established Member
"Trick cyclists"!!! 
Sam
Sam
MikeG.
Established Member
SammyQ":2c5cydwz said:
My daughter is an animal behaviouralist, doing a PhD in Sweden as part of a long term study using jungle fowl. The people there seem to extraordinarily normal!
paulrockliffe":297skvr2 said:
Just PVA and a bunch of clamps, surfaces were off the thicknesser then planed to remove ridges and ensure a close fit.
I did make one with the centre slice in an exotic offcut from the woodpile. The glue failed during wedging the tenon, the wood was very oily so assume that was the issue.
Otherwise time will tell. Although I’m not planning on whacking the **** out of stuff with this as it’s too nice, I’m using it for chisel work and it’s holding up fine.
F.
Glue joints should exceed the strength of the wood around them. If not then something's amiss. Assuming you're not using an exotic species, your glue is good and the wood was freshly prepared it's likely a clamping issue, that seems to be the usual source of failure these days because the myth about starving joints (from too much clamping pressure) continues to persist.paulrockliffe":21n8d2bk said:
With PVAs you cannot clamp too hard, so if you build another one use a stupid number of clamps and don't be shy about cranking 'em up to 11
Deadeye
Established Member
Finally finished the bookcase for my daughter.
So many mistakes and learned so much! The inlay was a bit of a nightmare. I wanted raised "blobs" and rounding them after I'd glued them into the holes was a horror. I should have either gone for the whole thing flush or glued on the pieces rather than insetting them.
Thanks everyone for the advice on glazing and to solve the inlay problem (I used a chisel in the end but sanding was tough).
She's pleased though, so that's good enough for me.
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fezman
Established Member
Deadeye - that looks brilliant.
My planned office furniture will be built along a similar approach over the coming year, so this is nice to see something similar "delivered"
ian
My planned office furniture will be built along a similar approach over the coming year, so this is nice to see something similar "delivered"
ian
jimmy_s
Established Member
Completed before Christmas. Not really something I've made but part of the never ending home refurbishment. Wife wanted stove fitted and being a glutton for punishment I agreed.
Stripping out old open fireplace/ hearth only to find old fire opening had been well butchered in the past.
The stone ingoes have been battered with a mash hammer or similar. Hardly any bearing left for lintel. Lintel has also been broken and infilled with brick and good sized clump of cement. (sigh) Back of opening has been destroyed by someone battering ways through to the cupboard behind - probably a back boiler pipe route. Made good with bits of brick/ firebrick and anything else that was lying about.
Had to take out remains of lintel/ brick infill where middle of lintel had been repaired, break out crappy repair to rear of opening.
Didn't think to take photo but then measure/ cut back ingoes to allow new sandstone legs to be fixed back so lintel could sit partly on old bearing surface of ingoes and also on new legs. Legs pinned back to old sandstone with stainless pins/ brackets. Ordered sandstone from local(ish) stonemasons in St Andrews and collected in back of car.
Got new legs and lintels in and repaired back of opening and infilled section above with sandstone using lime mortar.
Re-used old combistion air vent duct when making new hearth and positioned under stove. On Roof re-pointing chimney copes/ replacing clay pot and dropped down stainless liner. Sealed annulus between liner and fire gather with cement board and register plate.
Stove's done - just need to strip remains of lath and plaster off. Planning to needle gun back old pointing/ repoint a bit neater and leave wall as exposed sandsone as its internal so no heat loss or need for insulation.
Stripping out old open fireplace/ hearth only to find old fire opening had been well butchered in the past.
The stone ingoes have been battered with a mash hammer or similar. Hardly any bearing left for lintel. Lintel has also been broken and infilled with brick and good sized clump of cement. (sigh) Back of opening has been destroyed by someone battering ways through to the cupboard behind - probably a back boiler pipe route. Made good with bits of brick/ firebrick and anything else that was lying about.
Had to take out remains of lintel/ brick infill where middle of lintel had been repaired, break out crappy repair to rear of opening.
Didn't think to take photo but then measure/ cut back ingoes to allow new sandstone legs to be fixed back so lintel could sit partly on old bearing surface of ingoes and also on new legs. Legs pinned back to old sandstone with stainless pins/ brackets. Ordered sandstone from local(ish) stonemasons in St Andrews and collected in back of car.
Got new legs and lintels in and repaired back of opening and infilled section above with sandstone using lime mortar.
Re-used old combistion air vent duct when making new hearth and positioned under stove. On Roof re-pointing chimney copes/ replacing clay pot and dropped down stainless liner. Sealed annulus between liner and fire gather with cement board and register plate.
Stove's done - just need to strip remains of lath and plaster off. Planning to needle gun back old pointing/ repoint a bit neater and leave wall as exposed sandsone as its internal so no heat loss or need for insulation.
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Lons
Established Member
Looks good Jimmy, vast improvement.
I assume you've had it checked and signed off by a suitably registered installer and / or local BI
I assume you've had it checked and signed off by a suitably registered installer and / or local BI
MikeG.
Established Member
I'm afraid that hearth isn't big enough to be in compliance. It needs to project at least 300mm in front of the wood burner.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Would it not comply if the floor in front of is non combustible?
MikeG.
Established Member
I don't think so, but I haven't looked it up for a few weeks. There are two sorts of hearth needed for any fire...."constructional" and "forgotten the damn word" . The size of each of them depends on a variety of factors, and is different for free-standing burners compared with ones in a fireplace. I think the upper hearth, the superficial one which I've forgotten the name of, is there to keep any floor covering safe from rolling embers or suchlike (they assume that the door isn't there). I guess the reasoning is that if there is a foot of solid hearth in front of the fire and standing proud of the floor then it would be impossible for someone to come along later and lay a carpet or timber floor within the danger zone. If left as per the photo, the next owner could easily carpet right up to within say 5 or 6 inches of the front of the fire. The constructional hearth is much bigger, being basically a zone of solid floor around the fire with no flammable materials, but it doesn't have to be visually demarcated.
The other measurements to check with this fire is that it stands 6 inches clear of all the walls forming the fireplace. It looks as though it probably does.......just.
. The size of each of them depends on a variety of factors, and is different for free-standing burners compared with ones in a fireplace. I think the upper hearth, the superficial one which I've forgotten the name of, is there to keep any floor covering safe from rolling embers or suchlike (they assume that the door isn't there). I guess the reasoning is that if there is a foot of solid hearth in front of the fire and standing proud of the floor then it would be impossible for someone to come along later and lay a carpet or timber floor within the danger zone. If left as per the photo, the next owner could easily carpet right up to within say 5 or 6 inches of the front of the fire. The constructional hearth is much bigger, being basically a zone of solid floor around the fire with no flammable materials, but it doesn't have to be visually demarcated.The other measurements to check with this fire is that it stands 6 inches clear of all the walls forming the fireplace. It looks as though it probably does.......just.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Mine was installed by a registered fitter four years ago - I have no hearth at all, it's just on a tiled floor. He said theoretically he should mark the floor with coloured tape or something where the hearth would have been had the floor been flammable and take a photo to show he'd done it.
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Phlebas
Burbling Pixie
MikeG.":3ga5n9xv said:I don't think so, but I haven't looked it up for a few weeks. There are two sorts of hearth needed for any fire...."constructional" and "forgotten the damn word"
The other measurements to check with this fire is that it stands 6 inches clear of all the walls forming the fireplace. It looks as though it probably does.......just.
Relevant extract from Scottish Regs:
A solid fuel appliance should be provided with a solid, non-combustible hearth that will prevent the heat of the appliance from igniting combustible materials. A hearth should be provided to the following dimensions:
a constructional hearth at least 125mm thick and with plan dimensions in accordance with the following sketches, or
a free-standing, solid, non-combustible hearth at least 840 x 840mm minimum plan area and at least 12mm thick, provided the appliance will not cause the temperature of the top surface of the hearth on which it stands to be more than 100ºC.
There's quite a bit more, but you can see the jist. My understanding is that if the stove is a modern one that satisfies the 100 deg C requirement you don't need a constructional hearth.
I think the dimension in front of the appliance is 225mm for a closed appliance, or 300mm for an open one, or one theat can be 'properly' used with the door open. Most modern stoves probably shouldn't be used with the doors open.
But, of course, usual disclaimer: no one should rely on generic advice from the internet. I could easily be wrong.
Oh, and is the term you are looking for 'superimposed hearth'?
MikeG.
Established Member
Phlebas":2ibr2lhd said:
It sounds right!
jimmy_s
Established Member
Sorry the photo doesn't show it but the existing hearth is at low level and is a concrete slab - old hearth stone had presuably been butchered by the previous installer who fitted the baxi fire with ducted air. The hearth is 450mm deep. I got an old cast iron fender off gumtree - just a low one and fitted that and tiled inside it to catch any escaping logs. I
There is a cunning plan in all this (hope my wife isn't reading) The old part of the house has an exisiting suspended timber floor which has inadequate ventilation and can't be properly insulated as I'll end up with interstitial condensation. We have a step from the extension into the old part of the house. My intention is to strip out the suspended timber floors, level with type 1 pour a new concrete slab/ insulate/ add underfloor heating / screed. My intention is to raise the floor level in the old part to the level of the hearth that's under the stove, which I've set to the same level as the floor in the extension. By raising the floor by 140mm I should have some room for a reasonable amount of floor insulation.
Problem is my wife likes the step ? - no idea why but she's reluctant to let me get rid of it. I need to get the floors sorted to allow me to get the walls stripped back so I can frame out and insulate. Maybe with Icyenene otherwise kingspan/ cellotex - have to look at costs.
There is a cunning plan in all this (hope my wife isn't reading) The old part of the house has an exisiting suspended timber floor which has inadequate ventilation and can't be properly insulated as I'll end up with interstitial condensation. We have a step from the extension into the old part of the house. My intention is to strip out the suspended timber floors, level with type 1 pour a new concrete slab/ insulate/ add underfloor heating / screed. My intention is to raise the floor level in the old part to the level of the hearth that's under the stove, which I've set to the same level as the floor in the extension. By raising the floor by 140mm I should have some room for a reasonable amount of floor insulation.
Problem is my wife likes the step ? - no idea why but she's reluctant to let me get rid of it. I need to get the floors sorted to allow me to get the walls stripped back so I can frame out and insulate. Maybe with Icyenene otherwise kingspan/ cellotex - have to look at costs.
jimmy_s
Established Member
Clearences are in accordance with the building regs/ stove manufacturers requirements. It doesn't look it but the sandstone to the rear of the opening is over 200mm thick and the sides are solid sandstone so all surfaces in the proximity of the stove are non combustable and satisfy the minimum thickness for safety distances.
It complies with the regs. - I deal with heating/ flues/ fire regs etc daily, it's how I make my living.
It complies with the regs. - I deal with heating/ flues/ fire regs etc daily, it's how I make my living.
