Xcalibur/Harvey set up

[wcndave]

I got my new excalibur today, looks like a solid piece of kit.

It comes with two wings and a black extension table.

I have the sliding table, which means i was hoping to get two wings plus extension on the right hand side.

However i notice that the wings only have holes on one side, and the extension has holes that are in a completely different position to both the table and the wings.

The extension table also has lips on the sides so it won't sit flush.

Any ideas as to how this fits together from those who have one?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I don't mean this to sound sarcastic, but did it come with a manual? Of course, we're blokes, we don't need manuals right? Except, sometimes they can actually be helpful. If you don't have one might be worth a try downloading one or calling the woodford folks. There must be one online for download somewhere.

 

[wcndave]

It does. However there's no mention of the extra table, and the sliding table manual makes no mention of how to use the removed wing... I will probably have to drill and tap in the end.

 

[Steve Maskery]

On most saws, and I think the X is no exception, you use a LH extension OR the sliding table, not both at the same time.
I don't have the ST, but I'm pretty sure that it replaces the LH extension.

HTH
Steve

 

[wcndave]

Sure, i was just hoping to add it to the right side to increase the range.

However still not sure how the black extension piece goes in, especially with that lip. Perhaps it's intended to allow a shim for "inevitable" sag...

 

[owen]

Phone the people you bought it from, and ask them.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Ah, I see what you mean.
Well yes, you will probably have to drill and tap. You might also want to investigate any issues there may be about balance, having that much more CI hanging over the RH side. You might find that supporting the rails with some auxiliary structure is a good idea (e.g. a leg).
No idea what the black thing is, mine doesn't have it.

 

[wcndave]

Ok. got it now.

The black outer extension (pressed steel) gets attached to the front and back rails. Makes sense now.

If I do attach the other cast iron table I will need some legs yes.

First impressions are very good indeed. Coming from a really bad saw set up wise this is so nice. Every setting has set screws or leveling screws or some easy to reach and easy to fix tight setting. Even the way you can adjust the front and back nylon heads so the the fence is minutely above the table just makes it glide side to side like air hockey.

Even the standard mitre gauge has slots cut and some set screws to take up slack, so I can skip the part of Steve's video where he hammers at his mitre....oh..... too late...

Looking very good so far. I come from a bad saw so it's even more exciting for me.

Tool free riving knife change, and two knives, one for through cuts and one for attaching the guard... seems everything is thought of.

I know you don't need anymore pictures of this saw, so I won't bother with that...

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Dave
Ooh it sounds like they have made some excellent improvements to already good-quality saw.
S

 

[wcndave]

Yes, although the riving knife tool free change does mean making zero clearance inserts either requires an extra hole, or that you remove the insert to change the knife. As you did this before anyway, you wouldn't notice.

The fence is now aluminium rather than plastic, which allows T track and short fence usage, however building a box over the top like many of your jigs do is a bit more complex now. (or at least different).

 

[wcndave]

The saw - tables are not leveled yet, as usual that's a painstaking and boring job. As per any machine, the final tighten always shifts it, and i have managed to mash the threads on a bolt already.

The rip fence, aluminium t-track attachment, solid. very.

Adjustment top front and back on each side of the guide - easy.

Although the toe of the clamp does not engage with the centre of the rail, and there is some movement in the rail when clamping right now

A magnet keeps the handle up when you're moving it about

Dial indicator. No micro adjustment which I have on my other one and is pretty handy, however I am sure I can live without!

Back rail has nylon head so the whole thing glides over your table.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Although the toe of the clamp does not engage with the centre of the rail, and there is some movement in the rail when clamping right now
[/attachment]

I think you can eliminate that by adjusting the screws on the front of the fence, can't you?

That does look like a very nice makeover of the saw. And it tilts away from the fence, I believe?

S

 

[wcndave]

Argh... i attached another 8 pics and after the 7th one it logged me out... how annoying, i was hardly inactive for a period...

If i move the fence down, then it hits the table. One could move the rail up, however there is a limit at the edge of table, and one of the bolt holes is a notch, not a hole. This makes assembly easier as you can hang one end whist doing the other. However any higher and the bolt will not engage.

I think it's ok. let's try this pictures again!

 

[wcndave]

What tilts away from the fence?

 

[wcndave]

Riving locking pin in engaged mode

Disnegage

Insert knife

re-engage Pin

Secure

 

[wcndave]

The mitre seems fairly decent, although I will mostly use the sliding table, it's nice to have this.

Officially known as "take out the slop, and also render 4 mins of workshop essentials unnessential mechanism" ;-)

Wheels are big, solid, smooth and lock easily.

 

[Steve Maskery]

What tilts away from the fence?

The blade, of course! How many things on it do tilt?

S

 

[wcndave]

Leveling feet for the insert are nice, however as there is also a screw/nut at the back, and a hex bolt at the front, you have 6 points of contact. So any adjustment to one means not all points are touching, and it's rather fiddly. me-thinks a triangle might have been better, or just the four...

perhaps i take the front and back ones out.

 

[wcndave]

What tilts away from the fence?

The blade, of course! How many things on it do tilt?

S

](*,)

The table slopes away based on setup, the rail, i put a pencil on top and it rolled off... loads of things, but yer, obvious.

Yes, it tilts away, hadn't thought about that...

 

[Steve Maskery]

It makes ripping bevels safer, as there is nothing to get trapped between the fence and the angled blade.
Enjoy your new toy.
S