I made several modifications to my Record Power BS350S bandsaw and documented them here in case anyone with a similar bandsaw was interested.
Here are the modifications I made so far. I’ll update the list below with links to the other threads as I add them::
1. Upgrade upper and lower blade guides with the Rikon tool-less kit made for the Rikon 10-324 and 10-325 bandsaws.
2. Add an electrical outlet to the upper frame so I can power the magnetic base LED lamp.
3. Add blade shroud to improve dust collection.
4. Rip Fence Upgrade
5. Replace the stock wheeled base with a sturdy cabinet with drawers, locking casters, and push handle.
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I found plenty of threads about using the Axminster Rip Fence Upgrade for table saws, but didn't find any for a Record Power bandsaw. After confirming with Axminster that this will fit, I ordered it and it arrived at my German address in two days. I installed it this evening, and am very impressed with the fit and function.
It was very easy to drill and tap the M6 threads for the two hex cap screws that hold the brackets to the saw table. I removed the table from the saw so I could drill down into the edge as nearly perpendicular as I could. I started with a 3mm bit and a little cutting oil. Then I went to the 4mm bit, and then to the final 5mm bit, which is the recommended size for the M6 tap.
My only gripe with the kit is the lack of flat washers for the two cap screws. The screw heads bite into the aluminum (aluminium?) brackets, and I prefer washers for the mechanical compression. Fortunately, I had some, so I used them.
Here is a picture of the BS350 with the stock fence and rail. When assembling the saw, I had to decide which side of the blade I wanted the fence, and then it was essentially fixed. All of the alignment for the fence, is made with the two threaded studs that attach the rail to the table. The through holes in the table are large and allow a lot of movement of the rail to set the alignment.
Here is a picture of the BS350S with the Axminster rip fence upgrade. After adjusting the vertical alignment so the fence sits uniformly on the table, I checked the alignment of the fence along the table and with respect to the blade. I didn't have to make any adjustments.
Removing the fence from the rail is easy. Raise the locking lever and the fence lifts off and it not in the way of any cutting. Changing the blade is also easy, because the fence rail can be removed by loosening the two knobs on the bottom of the rail and sliding it out. The locking knobs have square nuts that ride in a channel on the bottom of the rail. I attached one-inch sections of the excess rule tape to the rail and made a little alignment mark on each bracket so I could put the rail in the same spot each time. I removed and installed the rail to the table four times and checked the fence alignment and rule alignment to the blade. Both were dead on each time.
Here are the modifications I made so far. I’ll update the list below with links to the other threads as I add them::
1. Upgrade upper and lower blade guides with the Rikon tool-less kit made for the Rikon 10-324 and 10-325 bandsaws.
2. Add an electrical outlet to the upper frame so I can power the magnetic base LED lamp.
3. Add blade shroud to improve dust collection.
4. Rip Fence Upgrade
5. Replace the stock wheeled base with a sturdy cabinet with drawers, locking casters, and push handle.
=====
I found plenty of threads about using the Axminster Rip Fence Upgrade for table saws, but didn't find any for a Record Power bandsaw. After confirming with Axminster that this will fit, I ordered it and it arrived at my German address in two days. I installed it this evening, and am very impressed with the fit and function.
It was very easy to drill and tap the M6 threads for the two hex cap screws that hold the brackets to the saw table. I removed the table from the saw so I could drill down into the edge as nearly perpendicular as I could. I started with a 3mm bit and a little cutting oil. Then I went to the 4mm bit, and then to the final 5mm bit, which is the recommended size for the M6 tap.
My only gripe with the kit is the lack of flat washers for the two cap screws. The screw heads bite into the aluminum (aluminium?) brackets, and I prefer washers for the mechanical compression. Fortunately, I had some, so I used them.
Here is a picture of the BS350 with the stock fence and rail. When assembling the saw, I had to decide which side of the blade I wanted the fence, and then it was essentially fixed. All of the alignment for the fence, is made with the two threaded studs that attach the rail to the table. The through holes in the table are large and allow a lot of movement of the rail to set the alignment.
Here is a picture of the BS350S with the Axminster rip fence upgrade. After adjusting the vertical alignment so the fence sits uniformly on the table, I checked the alignment of the fence along the table and with respect to the blade. I didn't have to make any adjustments.
Removing the fence from the rail is easy. Raise the locking lever and the fence lifts off and it not in the way of any cutting. Changing the blade is also easy, because the fence rail can be removed by loosening the two knobs on the bottom of the rail and sliding it out. The locking knobs have square nuts that ride in a channel on the bottom of the rail. I attached one-inch sections of the excess rule tape to the rail and made a little alignment mark on each bracket so I could put the rail in the same spot each time. I removed and installed the rail to the table four times and checked the fence alignment and rule alignment to the blade. Both were dead on each time.
