Zero Clearance Insert for the Axminster TS200?

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wizer

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...and for my next trick, I want to fit a ZCI to the Axminster TS200. I'm sure we've had this discussion before but the unique search engine is failing me today.

I nicked this photo from one of PaulR's posts:

2206651767_75354422d4.jpg


The recess is about 3mm but only have support on one side of the blade.

Can anyone remember or suggest a solution?
 
Same issue with the Kity 419. I made one but the material to the left of the blade is so thin and badly supported that I wasn't happy with it so never really used it.

I think Rob has done one, sure he'll pop up in a bit.

Ed
 
Yup. Seen it. MDF. Easily extracted. Proper job - no more fiddling about with pesky shims.

But..............................I think Rob has a Kity and it's not quite the same as a TS200.............Rob, I 'll show mine (TS200) if you show yours(Kity ??)!

Sam
 
I use a sheet of polycarb (not acrylic) over the entire top of the saw when zero clearance is needed but I use an aftermarket fence.
 
Tom
I have a similar situation re support on only one side, but I do have more than 3mm to play with.

I'd cut a piece of 16mm or so MDF so that it fits when there is no blade in and then rout a rebate on the underside, leaving just 3mm so that it sits flush.

Next set your fence up to the edge of the throat and cut a kerf about half-way along the workpiece.

Plane up a nice little filler strip to close the rear end of the cut you have just made, so that are left with space to put the riving knife.

Still with me? Good.

Lower the blade as far as it will go, fit the new ZCI and cover the ZCI with your fence, so that it is held down firmly onto the table. Make sure it is clear of the cut line though!

Start the saw and carefully raise it through the ZCI.

Sorted.

Have I left anything out?

S
 
Yep makes sense Steve. Well kind of. I think it'll be a trial and error situation. But worth a go.

Thanks
 
Green, how did you fix it to the saw? Pics would be nice, you can email them to me if you don't want to post.

I hate the rip fence on this saw with a passion and will try anything. Just trying to get my head around how it would affix.
 
I replaced the front alloy section of the saw (the bit the existing fence clamps onto) with a piece of steel angle which I drilled and tapped to take the fence mounting brackets (supplied). Really simple but you'll have to find a way to mount and level the table extension.

I'll take a pic or two tomorrow evening as its a lot easier for me to explain that way.
 
Green":tuagu9ma said:
I'll take a pic or two tomorrow evening as its a lot easier for me to explain that way.

Yes please. I think I'm going to go for this option. Is the fence itself easy to adjust?
 
for normal operation it couldn't be easier, just flip the handle up to move the fence and push the handle down to lock. It locks solid.

Setting up for square is not too hard (if you are patient unlike me).

If you look at the enlarged image on the Axi site you will see two mounting brackets at the left and right of the mounting rail, there are knobs underneath (you can just see them in the image) that you can loosen to adjust for square.

The fence just lifts off when unlocked too.

Hope it makes sense.

EDIT: remember you will lose a bit of width on your cut, Wizer. I never cut wide sheets so it doesn't affect me. I'll measure max width tomorrow for you.
 
Tom, I made a zci for my TS200 not long ago. I've put a bit on my blog about it
Using 3mm Al it was actually very easy to make and the smallness of one end doesn't seem to cause a problem at all.
 
jlawrence":27n8nbsg said:
Tom, I made a zci for my TS200 not long ago. I've put a bit on my blog about it
Using 3mm Al it was actually very easy to make and the smallness of one end doesn't seem to cause a problem at all.

Thanks Jon, that looks very neat. What tools did you use to cut the Ali?

jlawrence":27n8nbsg said:
Extraction and guard is something I need to think more about. It’s not going to change until I get the new saw station built – that’s for sure. The guard will be removed (permanently) from the riving knife. It’ll be brought in on a pole type arrangement. My first thoughts were to have the pole drop down from the roof – that way it’ll never be in the way when cutting sheets. However, since the saw station will be moveable dropping from the roof simply ain’t practical.

This is something else I'm going to look at whilst 'fettling' the ts200. I had the same thoughts as you. I'd rather it came down from the cieling, but I'm not sure I always want the Ts to be in the same position :-k
 
Mr Ed":3k9zmot4 said:
Same issue with the Kity 419. I made one but the material to the left of the blade is so thin and badly supported that I wasn't happy with it so never really used it.

I think Rob has done one, sure he'll pop up in a bit.

Ed

I've done one on my K419, easy enough to do. I agree with Ed that there's very little on the left hand side of the blade

ztismall.jpg


... but in practice it's not a problem and the whole zero tol insert works very well. I made a tiny hole as well in it so that I can hook it out with a small allen key...the absolutely crucial thing to do though Tom, is to improve the extraction (IMO) 'cos if the Ax clone is like the K419, it'll be diabolical :evil: :evil: :evil: - Rob
 
This might sound daft, but I used the blade that came with the ts200 to actually cut the Al. I put a backing board above the Al to try and stop bits of metal flying everywhere - it worked really easy and since Al is soft the blade had no problems. It could of course be cut with a jigsaw - btu I'm crap at cutting straight lines with them things.
I made it about 1mm oversize and use a file to bring it down to an almost perfect fit.
 

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