Yet Another Box

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motownmartin

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I have been beavering away in the garage the last few days on some boxes that will either become small jewellry or make-up boxes.

The light was very poor and I only used my mobile phone so there is only one pic at the moment and shall post some more when I get some good light

05-11-08_2024.jpg


I have had one or two problems so far with one being the hinges, how do you fit hinges so the lid lines up perfectly with the rest of the box, the worst one is about 0.5mm out, do I just accept this or is there a way to do it perfectly.

I bought some 1 1/4" x 5/8" brusso hinges so I took the dimensions from the classic hand tools site and proceeded to cut the box and lid to suit, now I thought i could cut all the way across the width so that I had an 1/8" protruding at the back, nope it neede to be 3/16" protruding, I'm not too bothered about it, doesn't look that bad.

There were problems with both woods, the Walnut (European) tended to split the nearer you got to the sap wood, the boards the came from had a small heart of about 6" then about 3" or 4" of the lighter splitty wood then a couple inches of sapwood which was full of woodworm, the white parts in the Spalted Beech was very soft and tended too disintergrate if you took too much off with a Router cutter.

Last thing is I need your input on how will I make some trays for the box bearing in mind the box is 8" x 5" x 4"
 
Martin

Thats a good looking box, especially the contrasting corners. As you have seen I like contrasting timbers. Is it possible you took some pictures when you did that, I would love to see it in progress.

I have still to get my hands on the hinges I ordered so I can be no help there, sorry. For the tray in my jewellery box, I took some 12mm ash and dovetailed the four corners. I routed a rebate in the bottom for a piece of 6mm ply. I cut housings for some 8mm ash for the dividers. I expect you can make trays like this in any size.

HTH.

Bob
 
Nice looking box, you can try Exotic Timbers and look for their box makers wood. They do a wide range in thin sizes which are perfect for trays
 
bobscarle":2mtg099q said:
Martin

Thats a good looking box, especially the contrasting corners. As you have seen I like contrasting timbers. Is it possible you took some pictures when you did that, I would love to see it in progress.

Bob
Hi Bob, I didn't take any photo's but I did a thread on my first attempt at doing a Double Dovetail Cornerpost which is similar but more complex, this one is just a boxjoint cornerpost which is fairly easy but you do need accurate indexing.
 
Ironballs":3jhudv4c said:
Nice looking box, you can try Exotic Timbers and look for their box makers wood. They do a wide range in thin sizes which are perfect for trays
Thanks Ironb, what is the web address, I have plenty of offcuts its just the technique really.
 
To answer your question: Hinge fitting is a fit and try method.

If you have quality hinges there should be an odd number of knuckles. The first thing to do is to check that the hinges are the same dimensions and fettle off any radius created in the drawing rpocess. With the max number of knuckles (this is the part you attach to the body) use the hinge to scribe the lengths (preferably with a real sharp knife) and the width with a cutting guage set to slightly less than the centre of the pin - this 'throws' the lid away when you open the box. I always used to sink the hinge to slightly less than half the depth of the knuckle although fine cabinet work often requires this to be tapered. Rout out the wast and trim with chisel, fitting the hinges with one steel screw (you will replace this with brass screws later). Offer up the lid, clamp in place then transfer the position of the hinges using the unattached leaf as your reference. Follow the same proceedeure for marking and cutting as before - should go together no problem. The secret is to slightly undersize everything first and drill accurate pilot holes for the screws.
 
Pete Howlett":hivm9sry said:
the width with a cutting guage set to slightly less than the centre of the pin

This is the bit that didn't work for me because they were stop hinges.

Great advice though Pete and it looks as though i'm not too far away, thanks :D
 
It seems that most of us have problems with fitting hinges. I tend to do a dummy run on some scrap timber to get the gaps just right.
 
CWatters":55yjjkn0 said:
Are those magnets in the corners?

Yes, they work very well, this time the holes were slightly over size so I used Aladite to fix them only for one of the little b*****s to come loose today.
 
They look really nice.
I use double sided tape to get my lids to fit.
I position mark, route and fix the hinges in the carcase.
Put double sided tape (good stuff, the carpet type) on the top of the hinge then a thin steel ruler inbetween as if the box was shut.
Then position the lid exactly where I want it (pushing down so the tape sticks the hinge to the lid.)
Carefuly put the box upside down and open the box away from the lid, this is where the steel ruler comes in handy to stop the whole thing falling apart.
When open marking knife around the hinges and you are sorted.
I can be a bit of a fiddle but it works for me.
 
richburrow":2b3ao204 said:
They look really nice.
I use double sided tape to get my lids to fit.
I position mark, route and fix the hinges in the carcase.
Put double sided tape (good stuff, the carpet type) on the top of the hinge then a thin steel ruler inbetween as if the box was shut.
Then position the lid exactly where I want it (pushing down so the tape sticks the hinge to the lid.)
Carefuly put the box upside down and open the box away from the lid, this is where the steel ruler comes in handy to stop the whole thing falling apart.
When open marking knife around the hinges and you are sorted.
I can be a bit of a fiddle but it works for me.
Sounds like a good method, shall give it a try next time, thanks and i'm glad you liked them :D
 

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