Yep... It's another workshop. Guttering

[mindthatwhatouch]

A little more progress.

Few more rows of roof tiles.

Piece of ply in the other gable end.

Some celotex off cuts scrounged from a nearby building site skip. Most sites let you grab this, saves them paying to take it away, it's always worth asking. I find an old serrated kitchen knife works well and virtually no dust when cutting compared to a handsaw.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Tiles completed, just the ridge and barge covers to do.

Gable fascia board will be fixed to last rafter.

Gable end boarded and ready for cladding

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

The eaves row of tiles has a plastic drip guard under it, this will fall into the gutter. Could not source the proper stuff in the UK but a felt tray with the edge cut off is just about perfect. Little bit of insect mesh under this to stop the creepy crawlies.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

A little more progress, the barge covers need bending at the eaves end to close the edge off.
Mark the edge of the board.

Parallel line to the edge of the board and a tab marked.

and then cut

Bit of origami...

the smaller tab gets bent under last tile.

Waiting for some dry weather for a coat of paint on the boards before fitting.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

More progress, why does it seem some things just take forever!

Barge covers done after a coat of paint on the boards.

Plasterboard lining on the ceiling.

Side door and window fitted as well.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Quick question on the internal wall cladding, whilst I am waiting for the tape and jointing to dry.

I have a load of ply for this. Should I leave a gap between the ply and block wall. Also what do I do below DPC level.
Exterior of the block walls will have rainscreen cladding. Just a bit concerned about condensation, particularly below Dpc.

 

[blackrodd]

Please see the link, you should not be able to see below dpc as the link will show, even though you may have just i skin of blockwork/brickwork
As the sketch shows the polythene membrane, under you're floor slab should be tucked up and join the dpc to maintain the damp isolation you are trying to achieve.
All the outside paths, ground etc will be at least 150mm below dpc level.
You're finish floor, screed etc will be above this., see the sketch.
Regards Rodders

http://www.constructiontermsx.com/damp- ... efinition/

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Thanks Rodders,

This was something that I was concerned about when the slab went in.
The DPM was not large enough to go up the wall sides to meet the DPC (and practically it would have been difficult to manage it) as due to the slope the DPC is two blocks above ground level, I have coated the interior of the block work below DPC with Aquaprufe. Maybe it would be best to leave the blockwork exposed so at least it can dry out, it will only be damp that rises up through the blocks as they will not get rain soaked.

 

[blackrodd]

To stop ingress of water inside, If you're Aquaprufe is as good and similar synthaproof, a coal based product, paint the below damp blockwork with another two coats, (read the tin, I don't know why, but the brush must be worked all the same way, not up a few slaps, down, then sideways etc) And blind the last wet coat with good sharp sand and when dry, render with a good 10, or 12mm of cement render, pit sand is best, as Wickes sell. at 4 in 1
Use a length of 12mm wood strip or render stop as a thickness guide, keeping it tidy as it is rather a nice man hide!
This should stop damp ingress from outside and below DPC.
Obviously keep you're eye out for damp edges on the perimiters
Regards Rodders

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Thanks for that Rodders.

As far as the above DPC any views on the need to batten out before ply goes on, (suppose the air gap helps insulation wise) or should I just screw it to the blockwork.

Taped and jointed and painted

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Thinking about the doors.
Decided I will bite the bullet and make them. Have some 45mm thick softwood and 18mm marine ply. Inspired by Dibs great door build for his workshop (though mine won't turn out nearly as well)
Do the sizes look okay, and am I headed in the right direction with the haunched mortices? Tenons will be 15mm thick.
Planning on 15mm deep groove for the ply. Should I make the groove the correct width for the ply or rebate a tongue on the edge of the ply? (bad terminology) not interested in a raised panel but should the panel be in the middle of the door or a little further forward than the centre.

Also would like to put a chamfer on the horizontal outside edges of the rails to help rain run off, easiest way of doing this, dont want a 45 degree chamfer though.
Rather than mess about with rebated meeting stiles, thinking a false mullion type of thing.
Cascamite glue seems to be favourite?

As I need a pair and as its my first door think I will go for one first rather than trying to make a pair, just in case it all goes horribly wrong! If it works out then lessons learnt on first one will help.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Well for a first door it seemed to go relatively well. No idea if it has been done correctly or not, but it is together, straight reasonably square and roughly the right size.

45 mm thick softwood, Mortise and Tenons. Was a little unsure how to deal with the 18mm marine plywood panels, in the end decided a 12.5mm wide groove and took the inside edge off the ply. My 1/2" Dewalt router gave up and is now in the repair someday pile, which meant taking it easy with the 1/4" routers.

Took most of the waste off with a handheld circular saw, before turning to my rough and ready tenon jig. Mortises were drilled and chiselled.
Not too many pics just in case it all went horribly wrong, put some preservative on the hidden bits, edges of the ply panels, glued up with cascamite including gluing the panels in?

Rough layout, deciding on Muntin/mid rail position/how many panels

Frame coming together, one of many trial fits.

Highly accurate, super dooper tenon jig, large size.

Door number one.

If I am doing something drastically wrong, let me know now before number two comes along. Will try to get it on the scales tonight.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRvHJqR471A

Door Glue up.

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Right,
Softwood exterior door with marine ply panels. Looking for a white preferably satin finish. Preservative, Primer then top coat.

Sikkens, Sadolin, Zinsser, Dulux weathershield aaarrghhh too much choice. HELP

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Well it's an extra process that I could of done without but all the render is done, as per Rodders instructions above.
I've gone for the local vernacular finish of 'South Downs' :wink:

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Right then need some advice on the door hinges.

The door frame is more of a lining really as I didn't want to close the opening down even more, this lining is set back from the front face of the blocks by about 15mm. Got hold of some cranked pin and band type hinges, whilst a reversible cup hinge looks better I was hoping that the cranked part will get me past the door lining, which it does but means fixing to the block work 30mm from the edge. I could move the hinge pin further away from block edge and use a spacer between door and strap part of hinge. (in which case I would go for the cup hinges) Using these hinges means that blockwork is exposed and it makes the cladding awkward, suppose could always render the front external blockwork. These will be easy to fit, as is fitting the door seal.

So do we think a fixing that close to edge of block will be ok, Maybe a chemical resin type fixing?
Or what about having a pin made up with an "L" shaped bracket to get the fixings away from the edge?

Option 2
Use these stainless bearing fire door hinges. These will be trickier to fit and adjust in future. What do I do with door seal where it crosses the hinge, or do I place on the inside of the hinge which means most of the door gap is exposed?
The door lining is already rebated for four hinges before I fitted it, figured I would just fill them if I didn't use them. Will get a decent fixing because I can go through lining into blockwork.
Can't place them where I would like because of the end grain, if I use these how close to the ends of the tenons do I go with them?
Something like this?

Hope this makes sense and thanks in advance for your advice and opinions.

 

[RobinBHM]

If using butt hinges fit with shims behind so you can take out as needed (see coastal ironmongery as an example).

Two hinges about a foot apart at the top is best for heavy doors.

For cranked bands, maybe weld a bigger plate behind for better fixings. Or widen opening with diamond disc and fit some 4 x 4 fence posts and strap. You can pack out and mount hinges onto cladding, but you will need to bring door frame forward.

Dont forget the force of a big door if it catches the wind!

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Thanks Robin,
re: the shims do I need a deeper recess for the hinge and should they go behind all the hinges, the idea being that you can add or remove them when the door shifts.
Still not sure what to do with the door seal, should it be cut where it crosses a hinge or should I place it inboard of the hinges? was planning to use Aquamac 21 but happy to change if there is a better option.

Decided to go with four stainless bearing fire door hinges, as I couldn't make the cranked straps work without an awful lot of faffing and reworking. Decided this was neater, bit of altering positions on the door frame to miss the ends of the tenons, so did a bit of trial fitting and trimming prior to a coat or two of preservative. Awkward moving them around on your own (45kg per door) but needed them in the door opening to get a half decent fit.

 

[RobinBHM]

Yes behind all the hinges with a deeper recess. Not necessary if you have allowed plenty of gap for swelling, but if not, its much easier than chiselling the butts deeper at a later stage.

Aquamac could be machined into the stops, I would use it as a compression seal, not wiper. It isnt usually fitted into the door.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

Mounting hooks on the wall and packing behing the bands to get the door inline with the frame will create a greater swing away effect at the meeting stile, you will need a greater gap, or a tapered rebate to negate this. (as the door opens it moves towards the other door)