Xy's Pencil Gauge

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xy mosian

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Well just like woodbloke I was inspired by Tony (Escudo) to make a pencil gauge. Just to prove to myself, if no-one else, here it is.

PencilGauge.jpg


Stock in Walnut, beam in Rock Maple, threads in Boxwood.
Sorry forgot. The groove beneath the beam is to give the pencil lead a 'hiding place' when the gauge is in the drawer or un-used on the bench.

Must learn to take better pictures. :cry:
xy
 
Very nice.

Can you explain what you used for the thread cutting?

Cheers, Ed
 
Ed, Some time ago I made some adjustable hieght music stands and bought a Screw box from Seargent's Tools (remember them?), since that time I have been vaguely interested in wooden screws.
The smallest commercially made one I have is 1/2" diameter with a pitch of about 4 tpi. I thought that was a bit big for this use so I set about finding a low-cost alternative. The problem with thread forms used on metal is that they are generally so fine that wood is not strong enough to support them.
At 3/8" or 10mm I am looking for a pitch of about 3mm, I think, I keep looking. For these, after seeing a video, you-tube, where else, I used the coarsest thread I could lay my hands on, 3/8" BSW, with a pitch of about 1.5mm, not ideal but works at the low forces needed here. I took the bolt and filed a slot in it to resemble a tap, given a bit of clearance it works reasonably. The 'die' on the other hand is the tricky bit. A similar slot filed into a nut actually cuts the thread but tends to tear it, that is why I ended up using Box. The main problem is that the tap is cutting along the grain, normally, whereas the die is cutting across the grain, and we all know what problems that gives.
I am still playing. My thinking at the moment is for a Beall type cutter for the male screw. I have many thoughts about the tap but do not have acess to a metal cutting lathe so I am limited to mucking about with bits I have kicking about.

Sorry if this is more information than you were after, I do get carried away! Thanks for the comments and interest.

xy
 
xy mosian":2sgdpo5g said:
Thanks fellas, and I really enjoyed making it. Now what next?

xy mpgc (member pencil gauge club)
Have a go at a marking gauge?...similar technique, use a ground down masonry nail for the pin - Rob
 
Xy wrote

Ed, I.ve just had another thought. Rolling Eyes If you are after commercially made Screw boxes then these people are advertising 1/2", 3/4" and 1". The prices seem reasonable.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/WOOD ... TOOLS.html


I ordered one yesterday - came today - very nice!
Made in China but quality good - I think they are the same as others have for twice the price.

Thanks for the tip!

Andy
 
Hi, xy

Marking gage, easy just clone a stanley 5601
DSCF0015.jpg

and use some nice wood
DSCF0012.jpg


Pete
 
Pete, thanks for the pictures. A marking guage is definately on, perhaps this weekend. Just to show the sort of redundant treasure (junk to swmbo) I have about, the point is likely to be a Bluebird wind-up gramophone needle. If only I can remember where they are!

xy
 
Hi, xy

Yes a gramophone needle will work or a length of 2mm silver steel sharpened to a knife will be even better. give me a shout if you want one I think I have some 2mm silver steel left.

Pete
 
Yes, grinding to a knife is a better idea than a point, as it cuts rather than scratches. You can use a roll pin, they work very well.

Cheers
Steve
 
Steve Maskery":2j05zan9 said:
Yes, grinding to a knife is a better idea than a point, as it cuts rather than scratches. You can use a roll pin, they work very well.

Cheers
Steve

I think the wife has a spare rolling pin - do I need to sharpen it?

wooden-child-size-rolling-pin.jpg
 
Thanks for the help and encouragement guys.

Pete, I'll let you know on the silver steel if I may.
My second choice, after a gramophone needle was going to be the rump end of an old twist drill, but your offer trumps that.

I had thought of knife edges, it is something I have often thought is missing on my Marples mortice gauge. But, assuming a round section bar start, do you think one flat or two?

I have been trying to improve on my threading techinique for the clamp today, the male thread on the pencil gauge is a bit rough for my liking. There are now have a couple of pieces of threaded box ready for the off, so next job!

xy
 
You could consider my solution, which is a 10a scalpel blade;

2915338195_4a4b0c4e68.jpg


Although the blade is double bevel, its so thin that the accuracy is not really affected. You just need a way of clamping the blade. This solution means the cutting edge is razor sharp and when it becomes blunt you just chuck it away and stick a new one in.

Cheers, Ed
 
A scalpel blade for me is just too thin, so that I can't actually see the line the damn thing makes, which is why I never use a scalpel to mark out dovetails. If a blade is ground from a suitable piece of hard material (masonry nail, silver steel or gramophone needle) it can be made with flat on one side and a shallow bevel on the other. This has the effect of producing a line in the timber where one of the sides is vertical and the other sloped. The bevel side of the cut is the one that should be on the waste side and it also makes the line wider and easier to see...important for some of us :wink: - Rob
 
Thanks Rob, I had been remembering times when the tip of a 10A blade had broken off. Not needed in wood thank you.

Your points! about grinding are well noted.:) Of course a flat on one side of a piece of round section steel produces a sharp edge/point, a flat on two sides produces something akin to a screwdriver. Could you describe your 'shallow bevel' a little more please. Thinking in terms of rough angles to the axis of the blade perhaps?

By the way I have been wondereing if this thread might be more suited to the Projects section. If any moderators think so, please move it.

xy
 

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