Worktop Woes

[Graham Orm]

You've had the pegs set wrong or the bush/cutter is wrong, one or the other. You sure the worktop is dead on 600? A lot are 616 and jigs usually have a hole for this. Maybe you've crossed over there somehow?

 

[MMUK]

I assume you'll be filling the joint with Colorfill anyway when you assemble it? This will take up any small gaps. If we're only talking 1mm, you'll hardly see it.

 

[Rhossydd]

You've had the pegs set wrong or the bush/cutter is wrong, one or the other.

Or simply not pushed the jig onto the worktop properly, or it's slipped when clamping on. It only takes a tiny error to cause this.

BTDT

 

[Graham Orm]

Agreed but the cut wouldn't be parallel. I only say it's the bush because I've done it myself and caused the same problem. I certainly wouldn't expect a customer to accept a 1mm gap. The colourfill should make it almost invisible depending on what the worktop finish is.

 

[Rhossydd]

Agreed but the cut wouldn't be parallel.

From the photo that looks to be the problem. A small error of parallelism causes either the joint be tight and an increasing gap to run back from it or mate the long cuts and the joint is out.

 

[Graham Orm]

Agreed but the cut wouldn't be parallel.

From the photo that looks to be the problem. A small error of parallelism causes either the joint be tight and an increasing gap to run back from it or mate the long cuts and the joint is out.

Yep could be right.

 

[Deejay]

Afternoon all

Adrian

Have a look at ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09YYc9Bxqy8

Refers to a Unika jig, but the same principles apply.

There is a video by Trend at ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD-ioF7GIAY

Uses a pin to centre the bush, but Graygorm's method will also work.
Interesting that Trend say their jig can be used up to five degrees out of square.

Finally there is a video at ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4F6pOoy2-8

Shows an out of square joint. If you use this method, make sure that the edge which you cut off the end to make the male part is perfectly square to the top surface. If you don't the line on underside may not be exactly the same as the line drawn on the top. Interesting use of a hammer on the top surface when levelling the two parts.

Good luck.

Dave

 

[Adrian80]

Many thanks for all your suggestions.

Im going to go home, take a long hard look at it, maybe get the sand paper out, see if i adjust the angle slightly, and then probably end up re cutting it!

thanks for the video links, watched them all.

I agree liberal use of the hammer..

 

[Graham Orm]

Sand paper wont work. If you have room re-check the instructions with the jig and your cutter and bush sizes, then re cut carefully. Sounds like the female side of the joint is too deep.

 

[ColeyS1]

Sounds like an ideal job for a sharp finely set smoothing plane.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Graham Orm]

Sounds like an ideal job for a sharp finely set smoothing plane.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Good luck with that

 

[Adrian80]

Hi Guys ,

thanks for all the advice, i had a careful look at all the angles, and i think the jig must have slipped or the clamp got in the way of the router..

So this is how it was

and now recut.

with a bit of colur fill and clampiing it should all be good.
many thanks

A

 

[Graham Orm]

Good stuff, put it along the top edge of the joint before you butt them up. Scrape off the surplus after the worktops are tightened together with a stiff plastic scraper (credit card type stuff). Then use the cleaner on a cloth in small circles.

 

[dann]

Nice one!
Make sure you smear all cut ends and holes for sinks etc with clear silicone to waterproof or the chipboard will go like weetabix if it gets wet!