Workshop Windows - casement (making). WIP Now.

[Dibs-h]

Chaps

I've settled on traditional casement windows for the workshop. As the windows is 1350 (w) x 1100 (h) - I feel that it would look better with 3 sections as opposed to my original notion of 2.

Now if it had say 2 side openers with the middle one fixed - and the middle DG pane was glazed direct to the frame - that's how I thought it would be, but perusing the web and seeing pictures of them - one gets the impression that the fixed pane appears no different from the outside than an opening pane - i.e. I get the impression that an opener has been made and then "fixed" into the frame.

Would this be "correct" or am I p*ssing in the wind?

I was thinking of the middle one being an opener and the outer 2 being fixed - but think that the middle one being fixed and outer 2 being openers "feels" better\correct.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[Steve Maskery]

Traditional casement windows have the frame and then a casement, either fixed or opening. Of course it's easier and cheaper to have just the openers as casements and the fixed lights having the glazing mounted directly into the frame. But this looks awful and it's what the vast majority of UPVC makers do.

It just depends on how much trouble and expense you want to go to. But remember, you only want to do the job once!

S

 

[Dibs-h]

Traditional casement windows have the frame and then a casement, either fixed or opening.

That's what they looked like to me. Been loooking at a fair few Google Images and the lack of hinges seemed to confirm that it was a fixed casement. Just wanted to double check!

Of course it's easier and cheaper to have just the openers as casements and the fixed lights having the glazing mounted directly into the frame. But this looks awful and it's what the vast majority of UPVC makers do.

I agree - it doesn't look right.

It just depends on how much trouble and expense you want to go to. But remember, you only want to do the job once!

S

Once If I can help it!

Was thinking of getting the timber for them this weekend - but think it would be better to knock up some sort of "bench" to assemble them (softwood with mdf top) and also read up and make sure I've got it right in my head in regard to the construction.

Thanks.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Here is one I prepared earlier.
Although I do have a spindle moulder (up for sale - any takers?) the tooling I have is more suited to cabinetry than joinery. I decided to make life easy for myself by cheating. All the rebates are applied after the frames are glued up, so the joinery is straightforward M&T and comb joints, with no fannying about with long and short shoulders.

So this is the joint between muntin and transom:

For 4-16-4 units, the casements need to be deeper than on days of yore, so I made the joinery correspondingly chunky:

As I say, the rebates were applied afterwards:

This is where window frame and door jamb meet:

The external glazing bead allows ventilation and drainage all round the sealed unit:

This is what they look like from inside...

...and from outside.

This was just last year and now I have to say goodbye to it all

But compare them to the workshop window on the left and the kitchen window on the right, where the glass is fitted directly into the frame below with opening casements above.

HTH
Steve

 

[Dibs-h]

I decided to make life easy for myself by cheating. All the rebates are applied after the frames are glued up, so the joinery is straightforward M&T and comb joints, with no fannying about with long and short shoulders.

HTH
Steve

That thought has occurred.

The other thought that has occurred is making them with a Domino - using waterproof dominoes + suitable adhesive. What do you think of the Domino idea? Be a lot quicker!

 

[Steve Maskery]

I've done that, too, for my neighbour's house the previous year. They haven't fallen out yet!
S

 

[Dibs-h]

I've done that, too, for my neighbour's house the previous year. They haven't fallen out yet!
S

Hmmm! What sizes did you use and how many for each joint?

 

[Steve Maskery]

The bottom rail will have a rebate machined, so we placed the doms where they wouldn't get cut

In the top rail that's not a problem

The work is speedy

This support cradle was very handy, we didn't have to keep clamping and unclamping

Because the dom slots are different depths (because the sticking gets in the way) we have to trim the dom stock to different lengths, and because we made our own, we could use the widest waggle setting and fill it

The bay window is original, the upstairs are replacements.

 

[Dibs-h]

Steve

Awesome! Exactly the kind of info I needed. It does look like if I was using ready made dominoes - they would be the larger sizes.

I'll have to look at the other wooden windows in the house to see what the inside profiles look like, but will end up with either of the following 2,

or

What do you think of the sizes, etc?

Opening is 1350 wide x 1100 high - just 3 sections, 2 side openers with the middle one being a fixed casement. Would it look aesthetically right?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Sizes look OK, except that to get 55m finished you will waste a lot of timber. We finished at 51mm which completely filled the original rebate.
Your mouldings in v1 don't look very big to me.

You've not allowed for any sealant. That's another 1-2 mm. Email me and I'll send you the text and joint drawing.

S

 

[Dibs-h]

Sizes look OK, except that to get 55m finished you will waste a lot of timber. We finished at 51mm which completely filled the original rebate.
Your mouldings in v1 don't look very big to me.

You've not allowed for any sealant. That's another 1-2 mm. Email me and I'll send you the text and joint drawing.

S

PM Sent (or sending now)

 

[Dibs-h]

Steve

One thing I haven't quite got - perhaps it's in the text (but I haven't read that yet - will be doing so later this eveing) in which case - are the Domino made windows internally beaded or externally?

Cheers

Dibs

 

[Joints]

Steve, come one now be honest

It is clearly not that sunny that you needed to wear shades is it?

Any excuse eh

 

[Steve Maskery]

Steve

One thing I haven't quite got - perhaps it's in the text (but I haven't read that yet - will be doing so later this eveing) in which case - are the Domino made windows internally beaded or externally?

Cheers

Dibs

Externally

It is clearly not that sunny that you needed to wear shades is it?

For me, yes. I'm photophobic. I'm not scared of it! but it has to be a very dull day for me to feel comfortable in normal levels of daylight. Light makes me sneeze, my eyes hurt and I have difficulty keeping them open (yeah, yeah, I know all the jokes).

S

 

[Dibs-h]

Steve

The house has stone sills (not stooled) and none of the windows have wooden sills (extending past the window that is).

Following that I fitted similar stone sills - standing about 1.5" proud of the exterior wall. Once the 1/2" or so of render is on - they'll be about 1" proud - same as the house. I did fit them - leaning forward about 5mm or so to help with water running off.

Would I still need wooden sills at the bottom of the window? I was inclined to make the frames and screw them down, i.e. no sill.

Cheers

Dibs.

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you have a stoned cill then adding a wooden one would look daft IMHO. My cills are brick (4th pic down). I've had no problems (not even during last night's deluge).
Cheers
Steve

 

[Dibs-h]

If you have a stoned cill then adding a wooden one would look daft IMHO. My cills are brick (4th pic down). I've had no problems (not even during last night's deluge).
Cheers
Steve

Cool - will be going with the no-cill option (easier too). Thanks!

 

[Dibs-h]

Does anyone know where I can get something like,

without having to buy an industrial quantity - i,e, 50m of the stuff?

The stuff that seems to be readily available is

but as I'll be using planted stops - I'd prefer to put the slot into the thicker section - i.e. side.

 

[JonnyD]

You could try here you will have to buy 50m but it is only £14

http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/drau ... l_5mm.html

should also fit in the side. I usually use aquamac 63 seal on windows and small quantities can be bought from trend but you will also need to buy a fairly expensive cutter or spindle block to use it whilst the reddiseals one will fit in a circular saw kerf.

cheers

jon

 

[John Smith]

www.IronmongeryDirect.co.uk stock a comprehensive range of window seals amongst other things. I have had good service from them before.