Workshop Heaven Passaround

[matthewwh]

Hi Toby,

Of course, just copy and paste the list and add your name at the bottom, then send your address by pm to the person before you so that they know who to send it on to.

 

[NeilO]

Im up for a play, but not wanting to jump the queue Matthew, if TobyB comes back and puts his name in Im quite willing to wait and have them AFTER him.
MatthewWH
Devonwoody
Karl
Joe
SVB
wizer
WellsWood (MarkW)
jlawrence
Head Clansman
LocalOak
TobyB*
NeilO

 

[TobyB]

Thanks Neil - I've pm'd Toby with my address - let me know yours?

 

[devonwoody]

Posted today F(Friday) to Karl.
from Devonwoody.

 

[Karl]

Received the package off DW today.

Must say that the single item which stood out for me was the flush cut japanese saw, this one.

Fantastically sharp, and performed excellently even when rip cutting in some 1" oak.

Will definitely be ordering one from Matthew, and see that he has 10% off Clifton planes at the moment.........

Cheers

Karl

 

[jimi43]

MatthewWH
Devonwoody
Karl
Joe
SVB
wizer
WellsWood (MarkW)
jlawrence
Head Clansman
LocalOak
TobyB*
NeilO
jimi43

If it isn't too late. You should have my address on your database. Jim in Kent. If not will send PM

Jim

 

[jimi43]

Received the package off DW today.

Must say that the single item which stood out for me was the flush cut japanese saw, this one.

Fantastically sharp, and performed excellently even when rip cutting in some 1" oak.

Will definitely be ordering one from Matthew, and see that he has 10% off Clifton planes at the moment.........

Cheers

Karl

I was looking at that one too Karl...there were some in Axminster the other day and I was tempted....I was going for the expensive one...for dovetailing...something I am interested in doing by hand....

Will be interesting to try that one out.

(always assuming I am not too late!)

Cheers

Jim

 

[devonwoody]

Yes, I found the saw very tasty, it cut some protruding dovetails off and didn't leave any saw scratches.

The rasp wasn't bad either, but I am struggling for shelf space at the moment.

 

[Joints]

I would be interested.

 

[dannykaye]

I was looking at that one too Karl...there were some in Axminster the other day and I was tempted....I was going for the expensive one...for dovetailing...something I am interested in doing by hand....


Jim

I use the cheap two from Axminster the Hassunme Crosscut and rip, when I first got them they were abouy £12 now they are about £22 but they are excellent and as they are designed for softwood I mistreat them horribly. However, I would not trade them for the best Disston out there.

For dovetails the Sun child backed saw that DC reccommended is just amazing. (but a bit more expensive )

 

[matthewwh]

I'm not sure where this rumour about Japanese saws being only for softwoods came from but it is completely false.

The outer surface of the teeth are harder than most files and have a soft core for greater strength. The narrow blade reduces the amount of material being removed, both of which assist enormously with cutting harder materials.

There is nothing in the manufacturers literature that suggests they should only be used for cutting softwoods - quite the reverse in fact, they variously recommend specific saws for composites, bamboo, hardwoods, hard plastics in fact I've never seen one recommended specifically for softwoods.

(please don't take this as a personal criticism Danny, it's a widely held misconception.)

The Sun Childs are still available from Gyokucho (they were one of their first saws) but I opted to spend a little bit more and go for the yokobiki and tatebiki crosscut and rip dozukis that have superceded them.

 

[jimi43]

I don't know if you know the answer to this and I certainly don't want to put you "on the spot"...but since you seem a highly knowledgeable chap...could you explain what the various ukis and ikis mean?

I think I could dig up a friend with a Japanese wife but if you know it would be nice to know the origin and the various type meanings....

Cheers mate

Jim

 

[Chems]

I know nothing about Japanese saws but did read this:

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Japanese+Saw+Vs+White+Oak.aspx

 

[matthewwh]

I’ll do my best, here are the main ones:

Noko giri – saw
Dozuki – a very thin bladed saw with a full length back for extra support, typically used for joinery.
Ryoba – a double edged saw, often with rip teeth along one edge and crosscut teeth along the other
Kataba – a short backed or backless saw used for making deeper cuts
Tatebiki – rip (cutting along the grain)
Yokobiki – crosscut (cutting across the grain)
Kariwaku – beam saw, a type of kataba used for larger scale work.

Chems,
An interesting link, I believe that the more expensive handmade saws are fully hardened (teeth and sawplate) and are typically harder than western handsaws so you do have to take extra care when using them. Even so, the Japanese have clearly been sawing hardwoods for centuries and I would have thought in this case that the onus fell on the supplier to ensure that their customer knew what they were buying.

Either way, the rumour that all Japanese saws can only be used for cutting softwoods is false.

 

[bigjoe]

Interesting stuff Matthew,
The postie woke me up this morning delivering the tube from Karl,hopefully i can have a play over the weekend

 

[jimi43]

I knew you would know Matthew and you did not disappoint! Excellent mate and it is all clear now...brilliant!

The other thing I am learning is the care that needs to be taken with the brittle nature of the teeth.....I bet MOST suppliers would just sell you one and be done...now if and when I get one...I will respect the care needed for its use.

Thanks mate

Jim

 

[woodbloke]

I know there's a lot of folk, including Matthew obviously, who like Jap saws. I tried them a few years ago in both hard and softwood and it's true...they do cut extremely well, whichever denomination you care to use.
However, for me, the straight handle means that they are very uncomfortable to use at a Western style cabinet bench, hence my change back to a traditionally styled brass backed tenon saw.
I understand also that they were intended to be used on the floor (as I saw demonstrated at the last Axminster show) in which case the straight geometry of the handle is far less of an issue - Rob

 

[bigjoe]

Well ive just opened the tube and had a look at the shiny toys inside,mainly to distract myself from being an idiot,im making to pine chests for my daughters for xmas with barrel tops and despite just checking my dimensions no less than 3 times ive still managed to cut a strip 10 mm to narrow! , im working al fresco as i still havent managed to get the time or money to build a workshop this year....im off to look at shiny things again

 

[David C]

It will be interesting to hear what the new Guyokucho saws are like, I would expect them to be good.

The Sunchild, which has always been very popular in my workshop is still available from Sean at Thanet Tools, and is very reasonably priced. Excellent in hardwood.

His number is 01233 501010

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[wizer]

Hi guys, the passaround passed me just before I went in hospital and i thought I'd post some thoughts.

Richard Kell Adjustable Bevel
Richard Kell Deluxe Dovetail Marker

There's no doubt that Kell's products are superbly made. The dovetail marker is exactly that. Not much to say about that. The bevel is nice but seemed too small to be usable, IMO. Depends on the work you do.

Cabinet Rasp

I took this to the end of a piece of dry oak and it handled it well. Within a few mins I had rounded over a 2 inch square end. I liked it very much but felt it was a bit on the short side. I'd go for the longer ones if I was buying

Gyokucho Flush Cutting Saw

Again, this did exactly what it said on the tin, no marking the timber when flush cutting plugs. It's very thin and flexible and I can see where that would both be an advantage and disadvantage. I think this should be used for more delicate work or where you need extra flexibility.

Pre-Production C.I. Fall Mortice Chisel

I took this to a piece of oak that I'd pre-marked a small mortice to match the width of the chisel. This was the first time I'd chopped a mortise since my first woodworking project 5yrs ago. The chisel handled it very well and took my weedy whacks. I can't compare it to anything and intended to sharpen it before the men with the neenaw neenaw took me away. But if I was in the market for some morticers, I'd buy them. This is my very quick attempt which only really shows how terrible my woodworking is :lol:

(It's the square hole....)

Thanks for the passaround Matthew