Yes, I screwed on wire mesh to hold the render.
Workshop build, wood frame on concrete foundation
- Thread starter sirocosm
- Start date
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What a great workshop you have built. I know it's hard work doing it yourself but it is really satisfying - I am coming to the end (externally) of my build by installing the UPVC windows and doors and can't wait to start to use it. I will post some up to date photos later on my thread later.
Hi,
Here’s the gym/workshop I’ve almost completed made from folded metal frame, Cedral fibre/cement board. Roof is 50mm warm roof sandwiched between two sheets of osb and rubber top. Took a while but I only have interior to complete now with boarding and electrics so I can fit out my little bit of workshop and the wife can fit out her gym.
Regards,
Dave
Here’s the gym/workshop I’ve almost completed made from folded metal frame, Cedral fibre/cement board. Roof is 50mm warm roof sandwiched between two sheets of osb and rubber top. Took a while but I only have interior to complete now with boarding and electrics so I can fit out my little bit of workshop and the wife can fit out her gym.
Regards,
Dave
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If it was a wet cast, your mix has been rather thick. If you hit onto the background coat then that has been a bit soft. Aris around doors and windows are ragged. You use the aris stick on inside and out to give a nice aris. I wish you had asked for a wee bit more advice.
Could you give the method you used? It is a good effort but could have been better with your method sorted before going ahead, ie samples.
Could you give the method you used? It is a good effort but could have been better with your method sorted before going ahead, ie samples.
Depends on your taste I suppose, but where I am from this type of heavy dash was the only pattern you would see on old houses. Another thing that I noticed when I moved here (also in Germany) is that there is rarely ever any trim around the windows on rendered houses, maybe in the UK it would just rot, but it sure looks a lot nicer IMHO. I didn't put any trim because I thought it would look out of place since the rendered parts of the house don't have any.
Here is a typical stuccoed (rendered) wood frame house a few blocks from where I used to live:
Windows are flush to the outside, and always have trim around them that stands a wee bit proud of the surface.
The render on the workshop was done in 3 coats, the first coat over wire mesh, a second coat to cover any protruding wire, and then a heavy dash top coat thrown on with a large brush. In total probably around 1 inch thick. 4 parts sharp sand, 1 part cement and one part lime. Time will tell if it cracks.
Here is a typical stuccoed (rendered) wood frame house a few blocks from where I used to live:
Windows are flush to the outside, and always have trim around them that stands a wee bit proud of the surface.
The render on the workshop was done in 3 coats, the first coat over wire mesh, a second coat to cover any protruding wire, and then a heavy dash top coat thrown on with a large brush. In total probably around 1 inch thick. 4 parts sharp sand, 1 part cement and one part lime. Time will tell if it cracks.
I am thinking now about trenching in the power. I was thinking of using 6mm direct burial cable. I also had in mind to throw a pair of 1/2" plastic pipes in the trench in case I need some heat at some point.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Question. Are the 1/2” plastic pipes wrapped in insulation? I’m assuming you are running hot water through them and wouldn’t be buried bare.
Pete
Pete
Just lay a single 4 inch soil pipe between two inspection chambers and then you can run what you like when you like as long as you leave a draw string in. On what basis have you calculated 6mm Swa cable and how many cores ? It is not as simple as just pick a size and hope for the best .
Although a conduit would be very nice, I am not sure it is practical in my case. It is a bit far (30m) and there are several corners. Having said that it might be an idea to put a control cable in as well, although nowadays most control can be done wireless. For the heating, if I ever used it, I would probably use mechanical control anyway.
I don't think I would need more than a 32 amp breaker to supply it, so I was thinking 6mm, 3 core since the shop is not heated. Currently I don't own anything that doesn't have a standard 13A UK plug. Highest load would be saw+vac+lights.
I don't think I would need more than a 32 amp breaker to supply it, so I was thinking 6mm, 3 core since the shop is not heated. Currently I don't own anything that doesn't have a standard 13A UK plug. Highest load would be saw+vac+lights.
Not sure what you mean by that, I would assume most people put a little thought into things before they start digging and burying stuff.
My understanding is that you should be calculating the cable size based on distance and expected load. There is a calculator here, at 35m and a single circuit including lights, it shows a power limit of 5.5kw. If it's a non lighting circuit it shows a limit of 9.5kw. My understanding of this is that if you go over 5.5kw you may notice dimming of your lights, especially when turning on a machine.
I wondered about the difference for the allowed voltage drop for lighting vs non-lighting circuits, with LED lighting does it matter? In any case a 10mm 3 core looks like the way to go, it is not so much more expensive.
What happens when you visit a woodworking show and the next thing you know you have some larger machinery, always try and future proof your needs.
You really need an electrician to do the system calculations because you must take into account your supply to the property and the means of earthing as that has an input to design because it determines prospective fault currents and the size of protective devices. LED lighting is not a big load these days compared to when using tubes or Incandescent bulbs so meeting volt drops in domestic is not an issue but volt drops on final power circuits need to be within limits. As to installation get radial circuits fitted and not historic ring mains, easier as you have no loop back from the final point of supply. In such a nice looking building you might be a lot better off with Pvc conduit and junction boxes as it can give a nice tidy job that is also future proof.
For the LED lights, I was not thinking so much about the load, but rather that since LEDs use low voltage DC, they probably don't care so much about voltage drop, unless they have a really crappy power supply. Perhaps they will eventually ditch the 3% rule for lighting circuits in residential properties, as eventually only LED lights will be allowed as fixed lighting for climate reasons. In a lot of countries the incandescent (Edison) bulb has been banned. The others, fluorescent, halogen, etc. will be next I'm sure.
I am definitely with you on the radials vs rings, in Canada you cannot install any cable rated less than its protection device in residential wiring. I have wondered why they don't use a pair of 20A breakers (maybe tied?) in the panel instead of a single 32A for a ring final, as it would solve the broken ring safety issue, give a little more capacity on the same wire (breakers are cheap), and preserve all the other benefits of rings, but maybe I am missing something?
I am undecided if I will do the required research and install the panel myself, or hire it out. There are pros and cons for both.
I am definitely with you on the radials vs rings, in Canada you cannot install any cable rated less than its protection device in residential wiring. I have wondered why they don't use a pair of 20A breakers (maybe tied?) in the panel instead of a single 32A for a ring final, as it would solve the broken ring safety issue, give a little more capacity on the same wire (breakers are cheap), and preserve all the other benefits of rings, but maybe I am missing something?
I am undecided if I will do the required research and install the panel myself, or hire it out. There are pros and cons for both.
HamsterJam
Let’s take it apart to see what’s inside….
I have modest power needs in my workshop but went 10mm armoured over approx 50m run, partly underground, partly through a loft space.
That will provide you with supplying a 10Kw load at 50 metres with an 8.7 volt drop (3.8% ) so keep within 10 Kw and within specs.
I think it all comes down to why the ring came into being, nothing more than trying to reduce copper usage following WW2 but the trend continued. Don't forget that you also get the issue of bridged rings and people taking the concept of a spur to extremes.
It is also interesting that in both 2.5 and 4.0 mm CSA T&E that the CPC is only 1.5mm and is why in some situations running singles is much better because you get the same csa CPC as the line and lower circuit impedances giving higher fault currents and meeting disconnection times.
flying haggis
Established Member
That looks really nice and looks like it has been there for years
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
I'm not an electrician. We don't have any of the 13,16, 32 breakers/circuits in our systems you do. My 110V circuits in my house and shop are 15A and 20A. The 220V is 15A, 20A, 30A, 40A with the shop/garage having a 100A breaker to the sub from the 200A main. Low demand/use circuits like lights, wall plugs may cover a few rooms, bedrooms for instance. Heavier demand items like the clothes dryer, gas furnace, air conditioner, kitchen stove, etc have their own breaker. Wet locations like the bathroom have GFI breakers for any plug or switch you can reach from near a sink etc. Same goes for outdoor plugs. The odd thing when you look is many are paired breakers which I think is to allow 110V to be taken for some of the circuits (lights and controls) in the appliance while the 220V power does the main work. To the best of my knowledge we don't have rings with the individual protectors at each plug. I have never seen one that I can recall. Modern electrical demands in older homes can be problematic but newer homes are made with ample power. Our place has a 200A service (could have had 400A if needed for a pool etc) and we cook with natural gas so that demand isn't needed. My shop/garage has 100A and even with all lights on, I can run 3 220V machines at the same time and not worry about any dimming or overloads. It may cost more that you would like when setting up a shop but it's not that bad when factoring in the overall costs of foundation, lumber, insulation siding roofing and so on. Don't go minimum unless you have no other choice. You may regret it someday.
Pete
