Workmate based MFT style bench.

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Rorschach

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Has anyone made or seen an MFT style bench based on B&D workmates?

I currently use a pair instead of sawhorses and put a suitable board on top as my work surface. I also have a board with some 20mm holes drilled in it that allows me to clamp down onto the surface but these holes while laid out in a pattern it was only done by hand marking, no real precision like you have on an MFT style top.
I am sure I could buy/make a precision top and just lay it on the workmates, but since I have the luxury of time, i thought it would be good so if there are any more elegant/multi functional solutions to this.
 
I think there are people selling knock-off copies of MFT tops and axi sell a tool kit to facilitate precision layout to make your own - at a price naturally. A bit of simply Pythagorean layout and drilling care is all you really need and then it is step and repeat.
Trivial job on CNC if someone here would volunteer?
 
I will probably end up buying a pre-made top rather than a jig kit, since I doubt I will wear it out very quickly.
 
Yeah several varieties available it seems. Specifically though I am looking for people who have adapted or optimised their MFT top to work with workmates.
 
I use an MFT top on top of a B & D workmate very frequently. I bought the largest size Festool MFT top (the 1080 I think it was called). On the underside I have three lengths of 10cm x 3cm approx. easily and temporarily attached with three dowels. This raises the MFT top sufficiently to allow me to attach parf dogs and screw them tight from underneath with the Festool locking knobs (or whatever they're called). The MFT top is held in place on top of the workmate with a couple of clamps. It works fine.
 
for me, it depends what you want to do with it. If you plan to use dogs, then a top on workmates/saw horses works well. You need some clearance underneath to get the dogs in and to clamp- as JJ1 says above, this is easy enough to achieve.

The mft itself does more, with the flip down rail etc.

Then there are a lot of plans for a site setup, integrating several tools with a bench to make a mini workshop which is mobile.
 
JJ1":2yx9q02o said:
I use an MFT top on top of a B & D workmate very frequently. I bought the largest size Festool MFT top (the 1080 I think it was called). On the underside I have three lengths of 10cm x 3cm approx. easily and temporarily attached with three dowels. This raises the MFT top sufficiently to allow me to attach parf dogs and screw them tight from underneath with the Festool locking knobs (or whatever they're called). The MFT top is held in place on top of the workmate with a couple of clamps. It works fine.


Are you using the workmate to do the clamping? I was thinking of adding strip underneath like you and clamping these in the workmate jaws. Not sure if they will interfere with the top though. Also not sure if I should have the top sitting flush on the workmate for stability or raised up for clamping clearance.
 
My setup just sits on a B&D workmate and a Stanley tressle.
I bought the MFT from a CNC workshop in Wrexham.
I have mounted it on some CLS to give the clearance for Festool clamps - the MFT is located on the CLS via the 8mm dowel holes pre existing in the MFT.
Lipped with some softwood to avoid damage and with a couple of door stops to sit it on when stored.
 

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Now that's the kind of thinking I was thinking except I thought I would run the strip the other way so I could clamp them in the workmate jaws and made it all really solid.
 
Rorschach

It is pretty rigid as it is - clamping it in the workmate would increase it.

I have used it with my track saw in this general setup about 5 times - for 2 of those I moved the MFT away from the workmate jaws so that I could support the piece being cut off. A clamping bar that could be moved back and forth along the CLS support pieces might be the answer.
 
Rorschach":xzmq37p9 said:
JJ1":xzmq37p9 said:
I use an MFT top on top of a B & D workmate very frequently. I bought the largest size Festool MFT top (the 1080 I think it was called). On the underside I have three lengths of 10cm x 3cm approx. easily and temporarily attached with three dowels. This raises the MFT top sufficiently to allow me to attach parf dogs and screw them tight from underneath with the Festool locking knobs (or whatever they're called). The MFT top is held in place on top of the workmate with a couple of clamps. It works fine.


Are you using the workmate to do the clamping? I was thinking of adding strip underneath like you and clamping these in the workmate jaws. Not sure if they will interfere with the top though. Also not sure if I should have the top sitting flush on the workmate for stability or raised up for clamping clearance.




Hi,
Sorry for the delayed reply. I don't use the workmate to do the clamping for the simple reason that I want some clearance below the MFT top so I can secure the Parf dogs and I also use various Festool clamps (not pictured) that need some space below the top.
The MFT top is secured to the workmate with two screw clamps, seen in the picture below.
Your idea of a single lengthways batten clamped by the workmate top would be fine as long as you don't want/need the clearance space below the top.

I mainly use the MFT top for rip and cross cutting sheet goods with a track saw and I prefer to secure the Parf dogs in place from underneath to ensure better cut accuracy, hence the space below needed. I also use it a lot for clamping stuff in place whilst sanding.
The raised MFT top also has the added advantage of a raised and more comfortable working height and with a dodgy back, that's very welcome.
The three supports are just what I happened to have lying around. They are about 2.5cm thick and about 10-11cm high. The length was so that it spans the width of my proper workbench, which I also use it on.
The MFT top obviously overhangs the B & D workmate a bit but that's not an issue in the slightest for what I use it for. It may be a concern if you do stuff like chiselling, etc near the edges.

Find enclosed a few photo's. Please excuse the poor quality as they were just quick snaphots. The top isn't quite as bowed as it looks, I just haven't corrected any lens distortion.

Any questions, please ask.


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