Working to close tolerance with wood

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J-G your comment about applying glue with a scalpel made me smile. I have resorted to a toothpick before now.
I did try with a finely sharpened 'stick' but the Titebond I'm using even picked up on that was too large to get in the 1.6mm holes so I resorted to the stick to get the glue out of the bottle and the scalpel to pick up a smaller amount to press into the holes.
 
I did try with a finely sharpened 'stick' but the Titebond I'm using even picked up on that was too large to get in the 1.6mm holes so I resorted to the stick to get the glue out of the bottle and the scalpel to pick up a smaller amount to press into the holes.
small paint brush
They come in all shapes and sizes
Screenshot 2023-02-18 at 09.16.34.png
 
I have a thing that I try to do on every job. I try and give character. perfect stands in the way of good. especially with one offs. do multiples and you will acheive perfect.

I'm looking at an example. cedar shingles they aren't perfect being out of parallel chainsawn on the end different lengths. I could have ripped and rebutted everyone but much more attractive to
 
do the best you can. the imperfections add to its character( like humans!)
 

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....which like many RN sayings has more than a grain of truth.
Those of you that work with wooden ships/boats will be at the opposite end of the scale to clock faces thinking about what gap or tolerance to leave in say carvel planking or frames, so that at launch or soaking the vessel is not cracked apart as it 'takes up', but is snug & leakfree.
A different woodworking skill.....
 
Some year ago I had a house with two chimney breasts downstairs which combined into one upstairs. To give me more room I decided to have the downstairs ones taken out and replaced by a single central one aligning with the upper floor. This also meant having the wall between the front & rear rooms removed.

As you can imagine I did all the design work which included a fitted fireplace having a 1200 x 300 x 25 Green Slate hearth. In discussion with the 'builders' I pointed out that to fit the 'fire' within the space the right side of the opening needed to be (IIRC) 3240mm from the front wall - - - - - There was a short 'pause' before I got the response "we work to the nearest foot" !

We laughed the comment off and I had to leave them to it. Upon my return I was somewhat miffed to see from the doorway (as I entered) that the Green slate slab was far from level. When I measured the height at each end there was a 20mm discrepancy. - - - and it wasn't that the floor was a different height! - - - the bubble on their level was way off. They were not happy that I made them lift and reset it -- they couldn't see the problem that the fireplace wouldn't ever be able to fit within the apperture due to the 'tilt'. I think that the 3240 measurement was within 5mm which was not a problem.
 
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I did try with a finely sharpened 'stick' but the Titebond I'm using even picked up on that was too large to get in the 1.6mm holes so I resorted to the stick to get the glue out of the bottle and the scalpel to pick up a smaller amount to press into the holes.
Have you tried a syringe, it depends on the glue being used but I've used one for PVA, that got through the needle.
 
Have you tried a syringe, it depends on the glue being used but I've used one for PVA, that got through the needle.
No. I suspect that it would be more trouble than it is worth and certainly take longer to first fill a syringe and then dispense the small amount which may well 'cure' before I'd have time to turn the plug and position it over the hole.
 

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