WORKING SURFACE

[Alexam]

Only just starting out in woodwork as I have left previous minor skills back about 40 years ago.

In our double garage there is a work surface of 3/4" chipboard that is 128" X 24" that I wish to improve in strength for my son and I to work on. I will be building up tools, but initially had a look at what Wykes had in store and thought of adding a surface of hardwood plywood 2440 x 1220 x 18mm, with a fill of a couple of inches on the back wall surface to bring the new surface forward. Then add a hardwood strip to the front with timber behind to give firmer depth.

I do not know if this would be correct, but the surface will have only light carpentry work, using hand and power tools. I would think that the top surface should be sealed with something (help please), but does this sound reasonable, or is my thinking wrong in some way.

Any help would be appreciated.

Alex

 

[MMUK]

Personally, I just use kitchen worktop

 

[Alexam]

Personally, I just use kitchen worktop

Isn't that more expensive to cover that size?

Alex

 

[KevM]

I ended up beefing an existing BSO* with 3/4" ply, an 8' board cut into 4 by my local timber yard gave me a 2 1/4" thick top that's 2' by 4' and a 3/4" 'splash back', I then beefed up some of the cross members with miscellaneous salvaged timbers, and a 2" by 8" piece of ash 'lipping' the front of the bench. I know the 'splash back' look isn't considered classic workbench, but it stops all my rubbish falling off the back of my bench to lie neglected on the floor where I can't get to it without full on excavations. Would I like a better bigger bench? If anybody would like to donate one, or the spare time and materials to build one, absolutely I would, but this one will do for now and I really don't care if I gouge it or stain it. The advantage (for me) of the ply approach is that it's dimensionally stable, doesn't damage tools and gives me the option of swapping sheets around to give me 8 working surfaces through its lifetime, I doubt I'll ever bother with that but I could!

Best part of my bench is the bargain Record 52 1/2 vice, which has seen an owner or two in its time and will see me out.

Be wary about too much finishing of the bench top - grippy's better than slippy (in this instance...)

*BSO - Bench Shaped Object

 

[MMUK]

Personally, I just use kitchen worktop

Isn't that more expensive to cover that size?

Alex

3m (10'/120") length of 600m worktop 28mm thick from Tradepoint is a little over £30 :mrgreen:

 

[Alexam]

I ended up beefing an existing BSO* with 3/4" ply, an 8' board cut into 4 by my local timber yard gave me a 2 1/4" thick top that's 2' by 4' and a 3/4" 'splash back', I then beefed up some of the cross members with miscellaneous salvaged timbers, and a 2" by 8" piece of ash 'lipping' the front of the bench. I know the 'splash back' look isn't considered classic workbench, but it stops all my rubbish falling off the back of my bench to lie neglected on the floor where I can't get to it without full on excavations. Would I like a better bigger bench? If anybody would like to donate one, or the spare time and materials to build one, absolutely I would, but this one will do for now and I really don't care if I gouge it or stain it. The advantage (for me) of the ply approach is that it's dimensionally stable, doesn't damage tools and gives me the option of swapping sheets around to give me 8 working surfaces through its lifetime, I doubt I'll ever bother with that but I could!

Best part of my bench is the bargain Record 52 1/2 vice, which has seen an owner or two in its time and will see me out.

Be wary about too much finishing of the bench top - grippy's better than slippy (in this instance...)

*BSO - Bench Shaped Object

Thank you KevM,

It sounds like the 3/4 inch hardwood ply will work, but you have given me a thought about possibly buying te 2440 x 1200 x 18mm board and getting then to cut it width wise in two, therefore giving me a new 36mm to glue and screw onto my old surface, finishing up with 54mm top for just over £40. Would that be overdoing it do you think ?

I have a brick wall at the back, but would it be better to leave to top 2" in front of that, with the old chipboard base, so that I have a 'well' to pop tools into? Can soon vac it out.

Grippy rather than slippy is my thinking too, but I wanted to treat the boarding with something to 'seal it', not paint it with varnish. Any suggestions - wood hardener, knotting, or what?

Alex

 

[KevM]

I didn't glue mine, I wanted the (theoretical!) future option of flipping the boards over to refresh the surface when they get too beaten up.

As for the tool well at the back, I think that discussion is right up there with some of the epics that erupt from time to time when people ask the $harpening question... If you just screw the boards down you can swing both ways, try it and if you like it keep it. I used some 8 or 10mm coach screws to assemble my bench top - classy joinery! For finishing I slapped on a couple of coats of Danish Oil, seems to be a reasonable compromise.

 

[Eric The Viking]

You won't seal it successfully: you'll drill holes in it, scuff it, sand it, spill stuff on it... and grow to love it like that!

Seriously, only one rule: don't do woodwork and metal work on the same bench if you can avoid it! Filings wreck wood finishes and wood tools too. I used to have a disposable hardboard sheet that went over the top for metalwork - that works fairly well, more so if you can fix it down somehow (lip all round?).

The only thing I'd do, if it must stand against a wall, is to make a fairly strong lip on the back, say three inches up, to stop small things rolling off the back. My bench is intended to be used for clamping all round the top, so it stands away from the wall by about two feet. It's still infuriating having to chase after whatever falls off the back, even though access is quite easy.

E.

 

[Alexam]

You won't seal it successfully: you'll drill holes in it, scuff it, sand it, spill stuff on it... and grow to love it like that!

Seriously, only one rule: don't do woodwork and metal work on the same bench if you can avoid it! Filings wreck wood finishes and wood tools too. I used to have a disposable hardboard sheet that went over the top for metalwork - that works fairly well, more so if you can fix it down somehow (lip all round?).

The only thing I'd do, if it must stand against a wall, is to make a fairly strong lip on the back, say three inches up, to stop small things rolling off the back. My bench is intended to be used for clamping all round the top, so it stands away from the wall by about two feet. It's still infuriating having to chase after whatever falls off the back, even though access is quite easy.

E.

Thanks Eric,

As mentioned earlier, the work surface is fitted on a long wall, so there is no need for a lip at the back. I could allow for a catch all along the wall.

I understand that the surface may not retain any sealing, but something is better than nothing at all.

Alex

 

[hazel]

we got some kitchen worktop from gumtree. Got enough for 2 work spaces and a load left over for £10 lol. At college the workbenches are covered in 9mm plywood, I don't think it's coated with anything but I could be wrong

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Linseed, Danish oil or Osmo PolyX - the latter being the easiest.

 

[Alexam]

Thanks for the info hazel, but I thik hardwood ply may siuit best

Thanks again Phil, I had not heard about Osmo Polyx oil, which looks good.

Alex

 

[Benchwayze]

Personally, I just use kitchen worktop

Isn't that more expensive to cover that size?

Alex

Alex.

I am told Ikea supply this stuff at 600mm x 3mtrs for £40.00
8 x 4, 25mm hardwood faced ply at my supplier is £35.00 a sheet. Birch ply about £40.00.

So I don't think Ikea's price is too bad by comparison, although I don't know about its quality. I was going to pop in and inspect, but you know how it is! :mrgreen:

HTH

 

[thick_mike]

Personally, I just use kitchen worktop

Isn't that more expensive to cover that size?

Alex

Alex.

I am told Ikea supply this stuff at 600mm x 3mtrs for £40.00
8 x 4, 25mm hardwood faced ply at my supplier is £35.00 a sheet. Birch ply about £40.00.

So I don't think Ikea's price is too bad by comparison, although I don't know about its quality. I was going to pop in and inspect, but you know how it is! :mrgreen:

HTH

I got a 2.4m long piece of very solid work top (too heavy to lift) for £4.50 from ikea bargain corner. They discount the ones they drop on the corner and damage (slightly).

I did our whole kitchen for £17 and had enough left to make a work bench. Great bargain. Very good quality...better than the sheds.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks Mike.
I'm collecting material for my kitchen right now! Don't know when I will be able to get a 'roundtuit', but store's no bore!

 

[Alexam]

Cheers John & Mike,
I'll look into that. I hadn't considered Ikea as a source of supply, but I may be missing out. I know that Wickes do deliver for free to customers and as I need other supplies and only have a small car these days, that will have a bearing on matters.

Alex

 

[Benchwayze]

Hey Alex...
You're a woodworker. Surely you have some Hopkirk style roof bars!!! :mrgreen:

And BTW, Ikea are pretty expensive on delivery. :roll:

best of luck

 

[Alexam]

Cheers John,
I don't think I have yet reached the title of 'woodworker' as I am only just starting up again. Don't have roof bars and the car midht be awkward getting 8' lengths in. Anyway, Wickes do free delivery, so I can order what I want plus some additional stuff and not worry.

Looking seriously at bandsaws just now. Been told that they are far more useful than a bench saw and looking at videos, that seems to be true. My problem is that I always want the better model machine than I really want to pay for. Probably sell off some of my photographic gear and fund it that way.

Are you professional woodworker or hobbyist?

Alex

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Alex...

Don't know what your car is of course, but mine has a ski-port, accessible from the boot. Depending on cross-section size, I can get quite a few 10 foot lengths through the back seats, with the arm rest down. (It took me some time to discover this handy ski-port in the car's predecessor btw! )

I don't work in the trade any more; I gave it up as a living years ago, but I like to keep it as a hobby. At the moment I am recovering from knee surgery, and also nursing SWMBO, who recently had the same surgery! So woodworking at the moment is confined to getting onto the forum as often as I can, and watching videos!

I tell a lie... I just finished making storage space for half a dozen new sash cramps; although that doesn't really count as it was just a case of fixing two ladder hooks to a roof beam in the shop! Now, where am I going to hang my blinking ladders! :|

Cheers.

 

[Racers]

We have a ski tunnel as well, its jolly useful thing.

Pete