Workbench top wood selection

[Scruples]

Even better some OSB!!

I'd want something a little more even than OSB. It's OK for roofing and possibly timber framing but not a workbench.

 

[Jacob]

I'd want something a little more even than OSB. It's OK for roofing and possibly timber framing but not a workbench.

Best off the shelf option could be a fire door - plain paint grade laminated ply. Available up to 8ft long. Dense and heavy.

 

[Jameshow]

I'd want something a little more even than OSB. It's OK for roofing and possibly timber framing but not a workbench.

I was joking!!!

 

[Jameshow]

Beech is ideal and first choice if available IMHO.
Stability isn't come into it with a workbench (within reason - has to be dry beech) but a lot of people have picked up fantasy woodwork nonsense about bench tops as "reference surfaces" .

I would love to reference off mine but that would mean clearing it!!

 

[isaac3d2]

Hello,

I am building my new maple workbench and as the maple did not yield enough thickness for the top (only 38 mm), I am planing to buy something thicker (70 - 80 mm). As I am planing and thicknessing by hand, I would like to buy two wide slabs instead of a laminated top.

I cannot buy such thick lumber from nearby lumberyards, but various private people sell similar thicknesses. The currently available options in classifieds are oak, ash, elm, pear, and walnut. Which one would you choose? I would like this wood for the top and the chop. The base will be from Norway maple.

Maybe close-grained species might be better, as I am afraid of oak, ash, and elm splintering with dents and nicks during use.

What about the dryness of the wood? Many of those have been air-dried (and presumably not long enough for such thickness). Will a slightly wet wood cause me a headache later?

Thank you.

I'd be afraid to actually use the workbench for fear of accidentally scratching or marking the surface if I was using pear or walnut!
However, if your pockets are deep enough go for pear, but not the boards you showed pictures of as they have way too much sapwood (as pointed out by a previous poster).

 

[Fitzroy]

I was joking!!!

I wish I was! My temporary bench is 4 years old, it now even has a leg vice. The positive is that I've no qualms about sawing into it, screwing a new stop/jig to it, spilling stuff on it.

 

[johnnyb]

why is it better to not have a stable flat bench? one that is constantly moving is and always will be a complete pain. it's even more important to have a flat assembly table. thing glued will still need checking for wind but a washer under one clamp leg can sort it. seriously some tropical woods and walnut would only need flattening once....that's it then... for ever.amen

 

[Jameshow]

I wish I was! My temporary bench is 4 years old, it now even has a leg vice. The positive is that I've no qualms about sawing into it, screwing a new stop/jig to it, spilling stuff on it.

Mine is 18mm softwood plywood!

I'm planning on putting a layer of 2x6 on top and an apron on it this weekend.

 

[Fireburst]

Go with beech. Superb wood for workbenches (and nice to work with too) and you can easily get 50mm + thickness

 

[Jacob]

why is it better to not have a stable flat bench? one that is constantly moving is and always will be a complete pain

The amount of movement in a beech bench top would be negligible as long as it was dry to start with. Wouldn't be a case of constant movement at all, as long as the bench itself was structurally sound, though of course you would make an effort to keep it reasonably flat!
Beech is highly favoured for bench tops but you perhaps wouldn't use it for panel doors.

. it's even more important to have a flat assembly table. thing glued will still need checking for wind but a washer under one clamp leg can sort it. seriously some tropical woods and walnut would only need flattening once....that's it then... for ever.amen

Assembly table a good idea if you have the space but not many small workshops will have one as there are plenty of ways of keeping things out of wind, generally by sighting with winding sticks, straight edges etc. You'd have to check your assembly table too and adjust accordingly.

 

[Adam W.]

Mine's Southern yellow pine and I keep it flat because I like having it flat and it's easier to build flat stuff on a flat bench.

YMMV however.

 

[MCTWoodwork]

Beech is ideal and first choice if available IMHO.
Stability doesn't come into it with a workbench (within reason - has to be dry beech) but a lot of people have picked up fantasy woodwork nonsense about bench tops as "reference surfaces" - best ignored! .

I have a beech top on mine. If it gets dented/marked badly or even becomes uneven I put my no 7 to work all over it and flatten by hand.

 

[Jacob]

I have a beech top on mine. If it gets dented/marked badly or even becomes uneven I put my no 7 to work all over it and flatten by hand.

TBH I've never "flattened" mine except when I first made it about 40 years ago, though I do occasionally go over it to remove any bumps, glue/paint blobs etc. It's the sticking up bits which cause a prob and can mark a workpiece, the dents don't matter.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/large-bench-with-vice-and-dowel-plate-reduced.143340/

 

[tibi]

To conclude this topic, here is the picture of 70 mm thick oak slabs that I have bought for my workbench top and chop.

 

[Adam W.]

Be prepared for them to cup, just saying.

 

[Dolau]

My builders merchant has sawn 12x2” pine which looks good and not too expensive with a little top planing

I was going to glue and dowel two pieces together but I only have one long sash clamp

was thinking of screwing a batten on both ends while the glue dries and sash clamping the middle- would that work?

my other thought was a ply backing underneath which I could screw and glue to the pine planks and maybe stop some cupping of the cheap wood

Thinking of a 6ft long bench but narrow bench and fed up with my bouncy plywood bench that is too low on desk legs - well - when I built it I wasn’t doing woodwork just a bit of everything

 

[Jacob]

My builders merchant has sawn 12x2” pine which looks good and not too expensive with a little top planing

I was going to glue and dowel two pieces together but I only have one long sash clamp

was thinking of screwing a batten on both ends while the glue dries and sash clamping the middle- would that work?

my other thought was a ply backing underneath which I could screw and glue to the pine planks and maybe stop some cupping of the cheap wood

Thinking of a 6ft long bench but narrow bench and fed up with my bouncy plywood bench that is too low on desk legs - well - when I built it I wasn’t doing woodwork just a bit of everything

My new bench is 6ft long and narrow.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...st-thing-you-made.81798/page-456#post-1672438Your 12" boards would do for the aprons but you'd need thicker stiff for the top. Would it work to laminate two 12" boards to make one 12x4" piece? Possibly.

 

[Dolau]

My new bench is 6ft long and narrow.
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/thread...st-thing-you-made.81798/page-456#post-1672438Your 12" boards would do for the aprons but you'd need thicker stiff for the top. Would it work to laminate two 12" boards to make one 12x4" piece? Possibly.

I need 4” thick? Yes I suppose I do for sturdiness when chiselling

need some sturdy legs under that too for support

 

[Jameshow]

I need 4” thick? Yes I suppose I do for sturdiness when chiselling

need some sturdy legs under that too for support

I think 2" will be fine?
Diagonal bracing is more important imo.

 

[johnnyb]

4 inch thick seems a bit chunky. 2 or 3 should be fine . 12 by 2 will be spruce like scaffold boards. 9 by 2 redwood would be a lot better. especially for hand planing. quebec yellow pine is soft but lovely and stable and light big knots though.