Workbench for holding machines- Drill,sander and grinder

[Hsmith192]

Hi everyone!

I’ve made a workbench with some prebrought metal legs but finding that it is a little wobbly.

The bench is to hold a pillar drill, sander and possible wet stone grinder. (120kg in total)

Can anybody suggest or have an example of a machine style bench made from wood? Maybe one with a plywood top but softwood legs?

Hope I’ve made it easy to understand.

 

[Cabinetman]

I think what you’re looking for isn’t so much a bench as what I call an assembly table I have two on castors But you can make them any shape and size you want of course.

 

[Stanleymonkey]

A picture would help.

Are they the pre-drilled 'dexxion' type of legs that are like giant meccano with loads of holes or something welded together?

Some diagonal braces along the front and sides / wooden triangles bolted on the front and sides would help stabilise it.

A low shelf (unless the sander and grinder are stowed there) Would add extra structure to the bench - If possible you could store heavy things there to add mass.

Depending on the building - can you attach it to a wall / to the floor / another large cupboard or bench?

Hope this helps.

 

[Cabinetman]

The drop-down panel on the first photo is just to reduce its size when not needed it’s held up in place by a diagonal piece of 2 x 4 with a birds mouth at one end

 

[Hsmith192]

Hi everyone- thanks for the suggestions. It’s a Clarke workbench legs- they are a little thin for the weight they need to hold.

I was thinking of upgrading it or changing it but was struggling to find a good way of doing it.

 

[Alpha-Dave]

Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.

 

[Hsmith192]

Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.

Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?

 

[Jameshow]

Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?

I made one simalar to this 4"posts 4x2" rails top and bottom.

I made top 28" top and 20" shelf.

Cheers James

 

[TheTiddles]

Your local fabricators can weld up box section quickly and quite cheaply, it’s not for everyone, but so far as stiff and strong goes it’s the Gucci option

 

[Hsmith192]

I made one simalar to this 4"posts 4x2" rails top and bottom.

I made top 28" top and 20" shelf.

Cheers James

What wood did you use for the 4” posts? Was it redwood?

 

[Garden Shed Projects]

Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.

I agree with Dave. It would be a shame not to use them as they look robust in themselves. Try screwing a sheet of ply across the back

 

[HamsterJam]

Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?

I made a frame similar to the one you show to support a 3m long piece of kitchen worktop using 3x2 and lap joints.
It has an intermediate shelf using 18mm flooring chipboard offcuts. Seems plenty strong enough.