Workbench aprons - do they need to be square to the top?

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MarkDennehy

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Something that was bothering me while grooving some rails this evening was that I got the distinct impression the piece in the vice wasn't exactly vertical, so I checked...

IMG_2232a.jpg


Hmmm. I mean, it hasn't stopped me so far but that does explain a few things that had been going slightly ****-eyed. So is it just me being a perfectionist or is this actually a problem?
 
I would say that we are prone to naturally planing level, therefore if you were shooting an edge with the timber clamped in the vice then its going to be more difficult getting the edge square as you will have to hold the plane at a slight angle (that's assuming the bench top is level)

Just my thoughts
 
I wouldn't worry, mine's not quite square to the top either, doesn't bother me
 
It might be interesting to check whether the vice clamps vertically using a spirit level. This may be a more critical check especially if you chop mortices with the wood in the vice. If you chop with the chisel vertical then the mortice will not be square if the vice is not holding the wood vertical.

When I chop mortices I always wonder how we judge when something is vertical by eye.

Chris
 
Mine is dead square to the top, which is dead level in both directions. If find this and other perfect tools an advantage as when I do something that doesn't go quite to plan I can blame my my lack of ability rather the tools. :D
Mine would be easy to correct, though, as it has a replacable inner face (I have no apron on mine) - your apron is continuous?
 
I thought this was going to be a nervous question about workwear!
It's a much more sensible question though.
I don't have an apron but I have noticed that if I clamp something in the vice so it hangs down to the floor, it doesn't fit quite perfectly onto the "vertical" leg behind it. Although I think a bench as perfect as Phil's would be better, I've not got round to correcting mine as it hasn't been a big deal in practice.
 
Mr T":20adq0n5 said:
It might be interesting to check whether the vice clamps vertically using a spirit level.
Nope, cants in towards the bench.

This may be a more critical check especially if you chop mortices with the wood in the vice.
No, I holdfast the piece to the worktop (usually over or as close to the vice leg as as practical because that leg's bigger than the others) and chop that way (if it's a thin piece, I'll clamp support sticks to either side to help keep it vertical and to support the mortice walls).

phil.p":20adq0n5 said:
Mine is dead square to the top, which is dead level in both directions. If find this and other perfect tools an advantage as when I do something that doesn't go quite to plan I can blame my my lack of ability rather the tools. :D
Mine would be easy to correct, though, as it has a replacable inner face (I have no apron on mine) - your apron is continuous?

Yup, 'fraid so. It's a sort-of-normal nicholson bench (the apron's set back a bit into the legs so the whole front is in one plane, or at least I thought it was).
 
Is how the apron is attached to the top a factor in getting this square, and it staying square? I am planning on building the Hayward style bench, and in his book 'Tools for working Wood' I notice the apron is attached underneath the top, whereas from your picture it's on the face (not sure).

I am wondering what is the best way, assuming the top is going to move across its width...

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
 
Well, the top and apron are one laminate, so the only adjustment I could do would involve a handplane and the entire apron :D Or cutting out an insert and truing that up I suppose.

2016-09-13-18.50.43a.jpg


Ironically, measured for square when building the thing; I guess over time the apron's moved slightly.
 
Prompted by your post I've been and looked at mine again. The front of the bench is pretty much square to the top and also vertical but a piece held in the vice leans over like yours.
In my case it's all because of the Record 52 1/2 vice. These have a few degrees of slope on the moving jaw, by design, so it grips well at the top. Maybe I need to reduce the amount of slope a bit by planing or shimming the jaw lining?

Worth checking as it should be easier than adjusting the bench.
 
MarkDennehy":35uq000a said:
Well, the top and apron are one laminate, so the only adjustment I could do would involve a handplane and the entire apron :D Or cutting out an insert and truing that up I suppose.

2016-09-13-18.50.43a.jpg


Ironically, measured for square when building the thing; I guess over time the apron's moved slightly.

The leg nearest the camera looks in twist to the far one, is this causing the problem or just a optical illusion? You could measure the leg frames top and bottom to see if they are parallel.

Cheers Peter
 
Put a false face on the inside jaw(apron) - the inside is probably more out of true than the outside, and you only need lose maybe 12mm -18mm on the opening. If it gets knocked about you would be able to replace it, as well. You'd also save the edge of the apron getting bruised.
 

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