Wood carving hand tools: Vintage vs. NEW / Modern

[diytoolbox]

Which are better tools in terms of quality of the steel and reliability?
Some vintage / antique woo carving tools can be bought for lower / better price than the modern / new ones, unless they are high sought after collectors item tools.

Is there still point going for the vintage / old tools?
Or would it be better just going for the new / modern tools even having to pay more, forget about cleaning, restoring and sharpening, and just concentrate on working?

 

[BentonTool]

I am no carving expert. I have a mix of both. They both work. I buy the old tools when the price is right. Rust and some pitting is less of an issue since you can often apply bevels on both sides of the edge.

 

[Blister]

Older tools would be my choice , Fettle with a good edge , Good to go and most times far cheaper.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

I suspect the principle determinant of the effectiveness of carving tools is the way in which they are sharpened and an edge maintained - not whether it is old or new.

 

[johnnyb]

The better vintage tools are beautifully forged and delicate. Capable of the finest work. Modern tools are variable the best are about on par the worst almost useless. They can be not quite as delicate but obviously are full length and every variety.

 

[AJB Temple]

The only thing that matters with carving tools is for them to be really seriously sharp and kept that way.

 

[diytoolbox]

But can vintage carving tools be restored, sharpened and honed for real serious sharpness by handy work?

In contrast, the modern carving tools from well known companies such as Pfeil (SWISSMADE), Stubai (Austrian) and 2 Cherries (German) seem to have the long standing record of guaranteed real sharpness of the tools made from strict accuracy of the established machine production out of box.

Wood carvers with these tools never worry about sharpening or honing the tools, but just work away carving using the tools out of box. The vintage tool users spend days and weeks trying to restore, modify, sharpen and hone the tools while their carvings get left undone. The antique vintage carving tools will rust like there is no tomorrow, which won't last too long if left uncleaned with the expensive derusting chemicals, or messy vinegar with uncertain results.

 

[AJB Temple]

^^ Nonsense.

Takes a minute or two to sharpen carving chisels whether old or new. But you buy whatever you want.

 

[TRITON]

I know some people swear by old steel, and i have a few older cast steel type chisels i used to keep for jobs where a really sharp chisel is needed. But I say 'used to' as much of the quality of steel used today in high quality tools is 2nd to none.
Older chisels seem to have a price range that appears to be more about nostalgia than ability, especially when you look at whats on offer on ebay.
Some of the sellers there think they're selling hens teeth.

 

[Sideways]

I imagine there are far fewer professional woodcarvers nowadays than a hundred years ago so fewer professional forgers of woodcarving chisels, and maybe some loss of that skill.
But the science of metallurgy is more advanced than it ever was and the steels available to manufacturers are better if you've willing to pay for them.
Think Particle Metallurgy steels, cryogenic hardening...
Beware the snake oil sellers, vintage or modern, but you're going to have to learn to sharpen on a daily basis whatever you buy if you get into carving .

 

[Orraloon]

I dont have carving tools but most of my bench chisels are good old Sheffield steel for the most part. Couple of Sweedish and Australian in the mix too. I also have new Narex and Kirschen chisels but at work I cant see them doing any better than the old ones. My old ones got my woodwork done when money was tight. When raising a family I would have felt guilty spending too much on tools. Now I can indulge a bit but the shiny new ones kind of underwhelmed me. The oldies are the ones I reach for first.
Regards
John

 

[diytoolbox]

I can see the point of preferring the vintage wood carving tools from the video presented by a professional wood carver.

 

[stuckinthemud]

Ok, so as a woodcarving instructor, I use a mix, buying in job specific gouges as needed. I like Sorby, Ashley Iles, Pfeil and Bristol Design, all excellent. Didn’t get on with Two Cherries gouges (personal preference) but their knives are excellent . My vintage gouges are easily as good, and as reliable, as their modern counterparts but at purchase they need careful selection and usually the bevels will need gentle correction and honing when I get them home. After that they cut well and are easily honed. Purchase a good quality gouge from a reputable maker and it comes honed to a mirror finish but you are stuck with their bevel angles- I like much finer angles than most manufacturers grind to but have to hone more frequently as a result. Ironically, then, I usually reprofile my new gouges to suit my technique - buy vintage and you will have to fettle the blade but then Re-profiling takes minutes and is a skill all carvers need…..literally you pays your money and takes your choice