Window Hinges

[Dibs-h]

Chaps

I've got some 76x51mm hinges, but they are the ball bearing s\s variety -

there doesn't seem to be any overwhelming reason why they can't be used for the casement windows I'm making, is there?

Also, in the past (way back) I would be inclined to fit them such that (width ways) the outer face of the timber would be level with the middle of the pin?

Is it still the same with these ball bearing hinges?

Thanks

Dibs

 

[ColeyS1]

We use the 4 inch versions quite alot for hanging doors.

If theres windows to make for the same job we usually just use the smaller 3 inch version like you're thinking about.

Regarding chopping in the hinges, i usually chop them in so the whole knuckle sticks out (dead easy to do with a hinge jig). At my old work, my boss told me he didn't like them sticking out so much so made me chop them in- as per your pic.

Overall think it comes down to personal taste and time. Having to chop in the knuckles as well as the leaf takes longer.

 

[OPJ]

I like the stainless steel hinges. I know that brass was used traditionally but, if you buy the cheap ones, I find that they can be quite soft and will 'wear' away if the door or window is used regularly - the unit drops slightly, meaning it becomes a pipper to open and close.

 

[joiner_sim]

At my work we use 63mm stainless steel hinges on windows. We chop the leaf in level with the timber and the knuckle is sitting proud of the surface.

 

[Dibs-h]

Thanks chaps - I have some offcuts of timber lying about so may well do a test cut and see which I prefer.

 

[Mattty]

Traditionally they should be set in to just less than the centre of the pin. Joinery firms have a tendency to just set the leaves in as it requires less work. Personally i would always set them in to the centre of the pin for the 5 mins extra work.
It probably doesn't matter either way to much, it's just an aesthetics thing.
If your using the SS screws that come with the hinges then make sure you pilot and put a different screw in first, the heads strip very easily in my experience.

 

[petermillard]

If your using the SS screws that come with the hinges then make sure you pilot and put a different screw in first, the heads strip very easily in my experience.

Glad it's not just me then! I've long avoided the screws that come with the hinges for just that reason - always thought it was me being ham-fisted, or the manufacturers opting for the cheapest screws possible...

Cheers, Pete

 

[Dibs-h]

Traditionally they should be set in to just less than the centre of the pin. Joinery firms have a tendency to just set the leaves in as it requires less work. Personally i would always set them in to the centre of the pin for the 5 mins extra work.
It probably doesn't matter either way to much, it's just an aesthetics thing.

Having the whole knuckle stick out - just doesn't look right to me. At school, when they still used to do woodwork - we were always taught to set them to the middle of the pin, but as you say - re: joinary firms, saving time, etc - I can understand why they do it. It's just that all the s\s hinges I'd seen, the pin stuck out and wondered whether there was a technical reason for this.

The security aspect bothered me slightly - if the whole knuckle is sticking out and the supplied 1/2" screws have been used - is it not less secure than if the knuckle was set in further (and perhaps longer screws used)?

If your using the SS screws that come with the hinges then make sure you pilot and put a different screw in first, the heads strip very easily in my experience.

The supplied screws look quite small - barely 1/2". I'm tempted to use ones that are as long as poss. Say at least 1".

Cheers

Dibs

 

[joiner_sim]

I generally use 30-40mm screws on a casements hinge, depending on how wide the stile is.

 

[Dibs-h]

Chaps - the one question which I forgot to ask,

- one a side hung casement (or a top for that matter), is there a rule of thumb on how far from the bottom is the lower hinge and how much down from the top is the upper hinge? (if that makes sense).

Cheers

Dibs

 

[joiner_sim]

On the hundreds I've done, generally I just go one hinge in from top and bottom.
However, sometimes when the bottom rail is an extra wide one one, I find it helps to just clear the top of the bottom rail and come down from the top equal to that measurement.