Why modern chisels are "softer" than some older ones.

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That's why everyone needs one or two cheap chisels. I have a set of 5 which were a tenner at Screwfix. Ideal for that sort of job where you just need something to wedge, rather than cut.
 
Cheshirechappie":2w9qugan said:
Here's a short tutorial on how to remove skirting boards. Note the use of the chisel from about 1 min 15 sec.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lj0mkY9-uIE

Can't see some of the modern fancy steel high price chisels putting up with this! It's a very good illustration of horses for courses....
Why use a chisel at all CC?
The (modern screwfix) prybar I have is so thin you can wedge a bit of thin scrap behind it and it will protect the existing wall /surface. Just give it few mild clumps with a normal hammer. Few spacers/wedges are handy.
DemolitionDerby it's not. It's not much thicker than a chisel and super tough.
The length and width give you a fair bit of control and make it easier on the arms.
'A lever long enough' and all that.
 
Well - fair point, Chris - and he did say you could use a screwdriver instead...*

If you're working on site, you use what you can carry, so I suppose you can't always have the ideal tool for whatever job might crop up, and two or three abuse-resistant chisels can be pretty versatile.

The main reason for the post was as a sort of answer to the criticism occasionally levelled at some budget-priced chisels that they're "too soft". The reason being that the manufacturers expect them to find more use doing stuff like the video shows, and not much paring of fine dovetails in hardwood! Thus, "soft" and not brittle is a positive virtue of such chisels, not a failing!

* - Confidential helplines are available for those who feel they may be prone to abusing their tools.
 
Chisel the wrong tool to start with so you wouldn't be using one unless desperate.
I use a couple of paint scrapers - 3" ideal. Tap one in, then the other on top of it. Then a 3 bolster between them. The scrapers protect the surfaces on both sides and spread the load to avoid damage.
He hasn't got much idea that chap. If you want to be rough and ready then just hammer in the claws of a claw hammer, assuming you've got 2 hammers.
 
Good post.

I have lots of chisels. Japanese, expensive socket chisels, my very first red handled Footprint set. I do a fair bit of timber framing and this requires abuse: belting with a hammer and levering. What do I use most: ancient ex eBay Ward and similar. They cost pennies, they take a fantastic edge quickly off my Robert Sorby belt sharpener thing, and they are as tough as old boots.
 
in t'olden days a chisel was deemed exactly the tool for this type of job and were designated their own name: 'ripping chisels' (the name for an old chisel used for rough work or as a wedge for separating planks of wood that have been nailed together).

moxon:
Screen-Shot-2018-05-06-at-10.23.28.png
 
Someone on another forum started that there's an ansi spec for woodworking chisels that specifies hardness around 58, which is around where Robert sorbys chisels are, and so are a lot of other run of the mill chisels.

I noticed that here in the u.s., some of the industrial supply houses like to tout the industrial specification that chisels meet and wonder if carpenter union tradesmen and others are required to buy tools meeting a certain spec so that they bend without snapping off easily.
 
nabs":3by895a0 said:
in t'olden days a chisel was deemed exactly the tool for this type of job and were designated their own name: 'ripping chisels' (the name for an old chisel used for rough work or as a wedge for separating planks of wood that have been nailed together).

moxon:
Screen-Shot-2018-05-06-at-10.23.28.png
Bolster chisel I use is much the same (see above) - the two thin scrapers just refine the process and make it easier/faster.
Bolsters and cold chisels are purposefully made softer for the reason that CC suggests. I doubt they'd be any good for woodwork as they wouldn't hold an edge
 
Here in the states, the Aldi chisels are all the internet rage. I picked up a set, and took two of the four to my plant to check hardness. First averaged HRc 54 (three tests) and second averaged HRc 57 (three tests). Narex advertses HRc 58. LN advertises HRc 62. Some modern makers do not state hardness.

The question I would pose here, is what does hardness really mean? For me, I prefer a chisel I can get razor sharp and keep sharp through honing/stropping while I work.

By the way, the hardness tester was calibrated about a week prior, by an outside vendor, certified and using standards traceable to NIST. If the mood moves me, I may verify some of the other modern chisels I own, as well as some of the many vintage I own. Only issue is, I don't like the tiny indent made by testing!
 
In my opinion after sharpening all kinds of things and playing with about 300-400 chisels over the last decade, something that sharpens reasonably easy and fails in the littlest pieces possible and with as few as possible.

I think the Ashley Iles are probably pretty close to ideal for me out of modern chisels. The LN chisels are really tough, but they suffer from releasing the very edge pretty quickly unless they're blunt.

The softer stuff around 58 can be dreamy if it's vintage steel, but it won't hold up like a vintage properly hardened chisel in hardwoods (you have to blunt the angle to make it stay in the light damage range where you can strop or finish hone it a few times in the middle of a project without doing more).

The step down chisels like the R. Sorby chisels, etc, work OK, but they're a little bit soft (maybe because of an industrial spec) and not as fine grained as steel that's 150 years old by quite a bit. They need more edge support to hang together than something like an AI chisel. It may only be two or three degrees, but it's noticeable.
 
DW, out of interest, how do you rate the Veritas bench chisels? I ask because I have nothing to compare them with but a single 1 1/2" Stanley chisel with a blue plastic handle from the 80s. Both take a very sharp edge but the PMV 11 of the Veritas does seem to hold the edge longer.

Come to think of it, this is, I suppose, a bit academic because if you get into the habit of sharpening frequently and/or just before anything critical, then you always have a sharp chisel in your hand.
 
Andy Kev.":2qbonj88 said:
...
Come to think of it, this is, I suppose, a bit academic because if you get into the habit of sharpening frequently and/or just before anything critical, then you always have a sharp chisel in your hand.
Exactly.
For most of us it makes little difference what make of chisel or what colour the handle. They are extremely simple tools and a "top end" version is a complete waste of money. Having just a few Aldi cheapos is not going to hold us back or affect the work in any way.
If it came to it and somebody was chiselling many hours a day with his livelihood dependent upon it, er, this would still be true. :lol:
Shape size and ergonomics are important of course but plenty of cheapos score 100% on those fronts.
 
Jacob":2yqoc2p9 said:
Andy Kev.":2yqoc2p9 said:
...
Come to think of it, this is, I suppose, a bit academic because if you get into the habit of sharpening frequently and/or just before anything critical, then you always have a sharp chisel in your hand.
Exactly. For most of us it makes little difference what make of chisel or what colour the handle. They are extremely simple tools and a "top end" version is a complete waste of money. Having just a few Aldi cheapos is not going to hold us back or affect the work in any way
If it came to it and somebody was chiselling many hours a day with his livelihood dependent upon it, er, this would still be true. :lol:
Shape size and ergonomics are important of course but plenty of cheapos score 100% on those fronts.

Sometimes, a cheap chisel will teach you more about using a chisel than a better one will, too. Like the importance of being able to make sharpening a relatively small % of the time you're in the shop rather than creating rube goldberg solutions.

A soft plane iron will teach you a lot in preparing wood, too, and leave you working faster with a good one. The embarrassment for me regarding that was after starting as a beginner and thinking that the cap iron was farce and so, too, were soft irons, I learned to work far faster (and to a better standard) with junk irons and the cap iron in combination. A junk iron used with the cap iron will get through more wood than a quality iron used without it set properly.

The nicest set of chisels I've seen for the money (though one has to have facilities to do serious back flattening) are the ones branded MIFER. They're not as good as the iles chisels, but a set of 5 of them shows up unused on ebay from time to time (I guess they're out of business) for about $30.
 
Andy Kev.":glc0jy9w said:
DW, out of interest, how do you rate the Veritas bench chisels? I ask because I have nothing to compare them with but a single 1 1/2" Stanley chisel with a blue plastic handle from the 80s. Both take a very sharp edge but the PMV 11 of the Veritas does seem to hold the edge longer.

Come to think of it, this is, I suppose, a bit academic because if you get into the habit of sharpening frequently and/or just before anything critical, then you always have a sharp chisel in your hand.

I've never bought them just for curiosity, they're too expensive (the veritas chisels) for that and I'd lose $60-$80 in the exchange of playing with them and reselling them. So, I don't have an opinion other than having played with the steel in planes and looking at it under a metallurgical microscope after sharpening it.

It should make a good chisel. I doubt it makes a better chisel than white steel (which is the gold standard for chisels and probably always will be, but at the same time has to be forge welded to something and will never show up in western proportion chisels because of that), but I'd guess that it's probably on par with something like an old ward chisel in experienced hands.

Except a ward chisel will sharpen more easily and if you're in the UK, probably cost less.

The iles chisels are the most for the money at this point unless you need heavier chisels than their profile. Sheffield made footprint is very similar in terms of edge retention (but you have to look around to find something other than acetate handles if that kind of thing bothers you). If the veritas chisels outlast ashley iles chisels in real world use, the sharpenability of the iles chisels (functionally) on a single oilstone would negate any advantage that they have.

I found the plane irons to be like a better version of A2 steel (a2 will not sharpen properly on some things, and it releases globs, which leave lines on finish planing work and send you back to the stones earlier than you'd like). But I didn't find them so good that they would overcome plane design. Most notably, in sizing billets, I could get more done with an old try plane and a (good) butcher iron before sharpening than I could would the veritas custom plane, and with a lot less effort.

Well, the try plane was a new one that i made, but old design. The iron is old - I don't usually make irons except for moulding planes and specialty planes where I can't find a suitable old one.

In a contest of taking thin shavings in really hard wood with metal planes, the V11 iron would've won hands down - it makes a very good iron for what most people do with modern sharpening stones and generally finish work only.

Anyway, i don't think there's likely to be a practical benefit that would justify the cost difference between V11 and Ashley iles chisels. And "edge chasers" will prefer japanese chisels for things like dovetail sockets, anyway. You can literally sit down with a white steel chisel with a finish stone beside you and work indenfinitely. You can, of course, do the same thing with any chisel if you make the stone a little bit more coarse, but the level of sharpness and fidelity in the edge of the japanese chisel through the working cycle is far nicer/crisper/closer to initial sharpness.

(I wouldn't buy most modern white steel chisels, either - most are overpriced. All of the vintage japanese chisels I've bought have been made to the same standard as long as they don't look like old hardware store junk - but you have to order them from japanese auctions, which won't appeal to some people).
 
D_W":2rn14qz1 said:
It should make a good chisel. I doubt it makes a better chisel than white steel (which is the gold standard for chisels and probably always will be, but at the same time has to be forge welded to something and will never show up in western proportion chisels because of that), but I'd guess that it's probably on par with something like an old ward chisel in experienced hands.
Some highly skilled blacksmiths in Japan (who no longer produce) did wonderful things with Swedish steel and the blades rivalled the best white steel blades. Konobu still makes blades from Assab K120.
 
This thread is about chisels for site and rough work, and some of the qualities that make them more suitable for those duties than for cabinetmaking bench work. If people want to discuss hand made Japanese chisels, white steel, PMV11 and all the rest of the high-end stuff, would they be kind enough to start another thread?
 
:shock:
Right ho CC. I was going to ask about recipes for using up apples but I can take a hint.
I doubt there are any cheap chisels cheap enough for rough work, which wouldn't be perfectly OK for cabinet making, except being not so nice to use perhaps. Needing sharpening more often usually means easier to sharpen - which might be a plus in that there is less to put you off a quick hone when necessary
 
I like the red handled Footprints, the blue or green handled Marples and the black handled Stanleys.
 
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