Why dp people have router insert plates?

[mpooley]

Just wondering ?

I built my own table a few years back and made a round plywood insert with plywood insert rings.

It was only 5mm thick so i didnt waste any bit height and it has worked perfectly for 5 or 6 years. ( the hole in the top exactly matched the router base so it was very well supported and didnt sag!)

But I am trying to make my own router raising device now and am re-thinking the whole top.

I realised that as i never remove the router I cant think of any reason why i cant just have a thinner section where the router sits and screw it strait through the top.
I will leave a fair thickness as I have been wanting to buy a bit extender from rutlands and I will still have plenty of bit height.

Can anyone see a problem with this?

Mike

 

[Ironballs]

Seems like it will work to me, metal inserts are used because they're ready made, thin and don't bend. Yours should be fine from how you've described it

 

[Oryxdesign]

I don't use an insert and as I don't use cutters any bigger than 40mm I don't have any rings either so I have a flat table that works great.

 

[dickm]

That's how my Record/Ryobi table is done - I got an engineer to mill out the Cast Iron top to about 6mm in a shape that exactly fits my Elu 177. Had tried collet extension previously and it was a disaster.

 

[Doug B]

I like mine on a plate, i can lift the plate & router out of the table for any maintenance / cleaning without having to pick up a tool to un-do bolts, screws etc.

My first table had a solid wooden top, but i do now prefer the aluminium plate.

 

[mailee]

I too have mine on a plate basically for the convenience of lifting it out for maintenance. I did make mine out of some solid laminate with insert plates as I do use rather large cutters at times.

 

[Rich]

I used the table from a cheap Aldi router table, done away with the legs and cut a corresponding hole in a redundant office desk, the adjustable fence was left over from my B/Q Mcallister TS and modified to suit, no problems so far, after 3 years anyway, it all depends on ones creativity, and needs must when the devil drives according to ones budget :lol:
I have also fitted wheels to the table so I can take it outside of my "small" :lol: workshop for milling long workpieces, it just takes time and patience, I don't know about you folk, but before I start a project, I sit in the workshop with a cup of tea, a *** and a pencil and paper and go through the motions and implications of certain machining methods, occasionly getting out the tape measure to see if it's feasible within, if not it has to wait for a reasonably dry day, it's the sheer excitement of seeing the outcome and using a purpose made oneoff jig that does it for me, I wish I had been converted to woodworking MANY years ago, ah well, never mind, I'm making up for it now, the greenhouse is almost complete, pics to follow soon.

Rich.

 

[mpooley]

Ok thanks all - so mainly seems to be that a plate is quicker to get the router out for maintenance :shock:

it's funny i never ever thought about it before just accepted it

I'll do it my way as I have never had to do anything to mine


Mike

 

[Digit]

Seems like a reasonable argument, but then mine drops out of the table by simply releasing three Allen screws, two from above and one below, and no plate.

Roy.

 

[Rich]

Same as that Roy, mine is held in by 3 C/S allen screws from above, takes about 2 mins to remove, if needed The top is made from cast ally and I have routed out a track parallel to the cutter for jigs etc, you'd be surprised what those aldi cutter sets can get through :wink:

Rich.

 

[Ian]

I use one piece of MDF and have done for years ( as recommended by Pat Warner http://www.patwarner.com/ ). I started out with the insert setup thinking this was the way to go but always found the workpiece could easily snag
In in the various holes or even the join between the table and insert.

I still use insert discs which are turned on the lathe and set into a rebate in the table.

It is also the side extension to my tablesaw so I can use the mitre gauge slot on it for
Any router cuts that needs it.

A couple of straight hardwood cleats underneath in the direction of travel keeps it flat.

I also have the bosch dual router and keep the fixed base one in the table which can be removed in seconds for bit changes,maintenance or for any other reason. I also had some bother in the past with a plunge router under the table, under stress from the cut I noticed it could slide slightly down the locking posts which was no good for dovetail cuts.

Ian

 

[Oryxdesign]

The whole top lifts off mine but if I want to remove the router (triton) it's only 2 screws. Haven't had to do any maintenance yet though and cleaning is taken care of by good extraction.