Why are router usually lifts so expensive?

[gyuunyuu]

Router lifts are used to mount a router with the intention of makign it easier to change the router bit height from the top of the router plate thus not having to do it from the bottom. I can see that router lifts are quite expensive. I don't think I need one right now and might not need one ever, but just wondering, how is their price justified?

Rutlands Router Lift - R15 (350£)

INCRA Mast-R-Lift II (529.96£)

There are a few products on Amazon that claim to be Router Lifts and are less than 100£. However, they don't have any reviews. I am not sure how popular those brands are.

 

[Spectric]

Router lifts are used to mount a router with the intention of makign it easier to change the router bit height from the top of the router plate thus not having to do it from the bottom.

The main advantage of a router lift is to deliver easy repeatable and precise adjustment for the cutter, the next advantage that can be embraced is to use a router motor to replace the old concept of just using a plunge router. This will give a solid routing solution where making adjustments is easy from above the table, bit changes are made easy by design and you do not need to use extensions. You cannot compare that Rutlands lift with the likes of Jessem, Incra or woodpecker because at the end of the day the Rutlands lift is an asian import made to a price and you can get that quality cheaper from sites like Banggood.

I don't think I need one right now and might not need one ever, but just wondering, how is their price justified?

You might not, have you considered the spindle moulder as another option ? If you search these forums @deema has done a good article about them which is worth reading. As for the price, good engineering does not come cheap and having something that is well engineered and not made from plastic is where the cost is incurred. Bottom line is that you will only get what you pay for, buy cheap and buy twice or more so more expensive in the long run.

 

[gyuunyuu]

My interest in router table is not just edge profiling but also things like dado and rabbet and groove e.t.c which require fence. From what I understand, the spindle moulder is where we have no fence and just need to round the edges. Is that correct understanding?

 

[Yojevol]

My interest in router table is not just edge profiling but also things like dado and rabbet and groove e.t.c which require fence. From what I understand, the spindle moulder is where we have no fence and just need to round the edges. Is that correct understanding?

No, incorrect. A router table is just a mini version of a spindle moulder. Just Google it and you'll see they all have fence systems. Both can be used without a fence.
The more sophisticated SM's feature tilting shafts and reverse direction rotation which no router table will offer.
A decent s/h entry level SM can purchased for less than the Rutland lift you quote. Once purchased with basic tooling, SM cutter sets can be cheaper than equivalent router cutters.
Brian

 

[alan895]

I can only speak from my own experiences but router lifts I found to be one of those workshop aids that once you have one you wonder how you managed to get by without it. I don't use the term "gamechanger" very much anymore but having one was definitely that.

 

[brocher]

I have hankered after a router lift for quite a few years and struggled by with my old router. But when that conked out I thought I might get a router with its own "lift" which I could adjust from above the table. I bought the Triton TRA001 which you can adjust from above. I have found that to be just what I need for the jobs that I do as a hobbyist DIY guy. The only issue I have had has been a faulty switch but as I have reported elsewhere on here, Triton were excellent in repairing my router ASAP. So, if a full blown router lift is out of reach then a Triton with its adjuster might be the job.

 

[HamsterJam]

Keep your eyes peeled for deals.
I got fed up struggling with a plunge router slung under a table and bought the Rutland R15 lift and motor package when it had £100 off.

 

[gyuunyuu]

Yes, this does raise the question why the "lift" is not always build into the router somehow. All we need is a hole where we can put a hex key and rotate that to move the router vertically inside its fixed base.

Being an electronic engineer that has designed so many complex digital systems for aerospace, space, terrestrial use, I do often wonder why the desired features are not standard in all models of routers from a vendor. I mean mass production means less cost right? So if all routers (fixed base) had built in lift, that would make life easier for many. But then again, I am not a carpenter so don't know how things work here.

Too bad I can't just go out and design mechanical parts to specification like I can do with electronic circuits. Circuits need off the shelf components and PCB. But mechanical design is completely different with so many materials and machining being slow and expensive.

 

[MikeJhn]

dado and rabbet and groove

That's abuse of a fluffy little animal.

 

[sams93]

Yes, this does raise the question why the "lift" is not always build into the router somehow. All we need is a hole where we can put a hex key and rotate that to move the router vertically inside its fixed base.

This is exactly what Triton did with their TRA001 and TRA002 routers. I have one which I mostly use in a table top (pictured below) but sometimes use handheld. It is absolutely brilliant and would highly reccomend it. You can see in the photo the winder which you use above the table.

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/threads/triton-tra001-router-question.146054/post-1711536

More info about the above-table winding system below and loads on youtube. They didn't use a hex key instead it is a slightly more flimsy winding connector but it works fine.

https://www.protoolreviews.com/triton-tra001-plunge-router/

 

[Spectric]

From what I understand, the spindle moulder is where we have no fence and just need to round the edges. Is that correct understanding?

I think that might be true with a traditional spindle but the newer versions can also take router cutters so can cut like a router table. The big gain with a spindle is the depth of cut which allows them to make big moldings which for me on the router table took six passes and a lot more time / setup.

I dare say @deema will agree or put us right.

I have found that to be just what I need for the jobs that I do as a hobbyist DIY guy. The only issue I have had has been a faulty switch but as I have reported elsewhere on here, Triton were excellent in repairing my router ASAP. So, if a full blown router lift is out of reach then a Triton with its adjuster might be the job.

If you search these forums there are some articles about the Triton, I now have the Triton in a Jessem Prestige lift which has made height adjustment really good and precise, with a muscle chuck bit changing is easy but the Triton router is bare bones. It has no switch or interlock, the shaft lock mechanism was easily removed as not needed with the muscle chuck and you gain extra lift if needed. I now have a simple switch that is easily used one handed.

This for me is just a step towards the ideal which I am now still debating because where I had a solid idea and plan that has gone through the shredder. For a router table then a lift and lift motor is the best option, the likes of Jessem are top notch but expensive but give a good engineered solution. The Incra positioner on a benchdogs mount for using with 20mm holes gives flexability but if you look around then the Jessem R slide fence is more rated than the Incra for some task.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?230834-Jessem-Mite-R-Slide-mounted-to-INCRA-LS-Positioner

Now throw in the spindle molder and everything is in the air because cutters are cheaper, can get custom cutters and it has the ability to make large moldings.

Yes, this does raise the question why the "lift" is not always build into the router somehow. All we need is a hole where we can put a hex key and rotate that to move the router vertically inside its fixed base.

Because you need to think of the router as nothing more than a motor with a chuck mounted on it that is held firmly round it's middle and has no need for movement, handles etc etc. Another way this could be done is to actually make the motor casting part of the lift mechanism so it is no longer clamped in place but part of the lift.

 

[deema]

A spindle in IMO the most useful and versatile moulding machine that you can own. Iys far more versatile and capable than any router table. I have written a thread on the spindle moulder, which might be of interest.
Spindle moulders can do anything a router table can do and far more besides. Spindles come with a fence that is adjustable and in most cases (all with new) a ring fence for doing curved work. Just about every commercial moulding you will see will have been made with a spindle or something similar.

Most spindles have the capability to also take routers cutters with an additional tool. However, the speed is normally limited to 10K RPM rather than the 16K typical of a router. However, it’s inky the smaller diameter cutters that you can usually hand route with that need the higher speed. The larger diameter cutters will typically be 10K or less RPM.

So in summary a spindle is a far more capable machine which ise inch and for a decent one is about the same price or less than a router table setup. The cutters are far cheaper, okay? Check your email cause sometimes.and is IMO safer than a router table. Yoi just need to watch a few router table videos to see the lunacy of people putting their fingers mm away from the cutter.

 

[gmgmgm]

Thanks Deema, good insight. I'll look for your longer post on the forum (mentioned earlier). I have a router table, and also an old Kity spindle moulder which I haven't actually ever used because it's so much bigger (and more terrifying) than the router.

 

[deema]

Modern cutter projection will be the same on a spindle and a router cutter. One rotates at a maximum of 10K, the other 16K RPM. One tells you it can cut bits off, and as a consequence you use shaw guards or a powerfeed the other you stick your fingers mm away from the cutter holding tiny bits of wood. Now, which sounds the more dangerous