which way for the blade?

[Jason.p]

Can anyone please advise. Am I right in the belief that the blade for a hacksaw, coping saw and fretsaw are fitted to cut on the backstroke. I've always fitted them this way and it seems to work but I'm sure I heard or read something recently that the fretsaw blade should be fitted the other way, so it got me thinking.

 

[Beanwood]

Every hacksaw I've ever used cuts on the forward stroke....

 

[flh801978]

Hacksaw frames are generally much stronger to allow for cutting on the forward stroke
Whereas coping and fret frames are much lighter and would bend if you used them on the forward stroke
Nothing wrong with mounting your hacksaw blades either way really

 

[Cabinetman]

Hacksaw definitely cuts on the forward stroke, fretsaw and coping saw on the pull stroke, principally because the frame is so thin cutting on the pull stroke keeps the frame in tension.
Crossed, I suppose not but it just wouldn’t feel right to me

 

[Doug71]

I always have the blade facing forwards in my coping saw to cut on the push stroke, don't think I'm the only one that uses it this way

 

[Nigel Burden]

I have my coping saw blade set to cut on the push stroke, and the fret saw on the pull. I have to agree about the frame flexing though. May be it's better to have the coping saw set to cut on the pull stroke.

I seem to remember Paul Sellers saying that the coping saw should cut on the push stroke, not the pull though.

Nigel.

 

[TheUnicorn]

I've never really thought about the construction of the frame in terms of the direction of stroke, it makes perfect sense now I've seen it written down. I think a light touch when using thin frames must help which ever way you position the blade as problems will only really occur if your blade snags or has too much pressure on it IMHO

 

[pe2dave]

Metalwork teacher told us that hacksaws should cut on the pull stroke!
The 'stronger' frame allowing a push does make sense though.

 

[F.A.Guitar Cabinets]

Metalwork teacher told us that hacksaws should cut on the pull stroke!
The 'stronger' frame allowing a push does make sense though.

We were also taught to fit hacksaw blades to cut on the pull but I think all mine are on the push.

 

[MikeJhn]

The problem with cutting timber on the push stroke is the splintering of the front face of the piece.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Hacksaw and coping saw push. Fret saw pull.

No idea if it’s right or wrong but I’ve been doing it like this for 50 years.

 

[paulrbarnard]

The problem with cutting timber on the push stroke is the splintering of the front face of the piece.

Depend on which side you are cutting from...

 

[Fergie 307]

I think it just depends on what you are using it for, and what suits. The only real golden rule is that you should have the blade cutting into whatever is the good side of the work, rather than pulling through it. Think of jigsaw blades, you can get them configured to cut on the upward or downward strike for exactly that reason.

 

[Jason.p]

Thanks for replies. I do remember an engineer friend of mine telling me to fit a hacksaw blade to cut on the pull stroke. I hadn't thought of the frame strength being a factor with coping and fretsaw! It also makes sense to be cutting into the "good" side rather than pulling through.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

This has cropped up before - there are as many experienced tradesmen using coping saws on the push as on the pull, but usually the lighter the frame the more likely it is to be used on the pull. A coping,fret or jeweller's saw is often used with blade vertical so would be used on the pull anyway.

 

[Ttrees]

I only use the hacksaw blade with a pull stroke when I'm cutting curves with and without the frame, because its easier.
On regular work I haven't found it matters much, above all, Bahco blades are good'uns and more forgiving if you're an animal with them.

I'd like to know why one would have a reason to have it a certain way
for some operation.

Not even this craic of double kerfed curve cutting, will make a blade toast toast as quickly, as not using a good vice.
I have been making do with a few ball vices, it's very annoying to damage a new Bahco blade.

If Lidl UK stocks them around the same, I think it may be August or maybe before it in your case, before those wee solid Parkside bench vices come in, probably 20 pounds.
I'm holding out for it, as it's pretty compact.
I have one at the folks and I've really abused it, still going alright, sound for the tasks I need.

Tom

 

[TheTiddles]

Metalwork teacher told us that hacksaws should cut on the pull stroke!
The 'stronger' frame allowing a push does make sense though.

Metalwork teacher had a sense of humour! Did he ask you to get sparks for the grinder too?

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

I have always used a hacksaw on teh push stroke and the fretsaw on the pull. The coping saw however normally on the pull but sometimes I switch it around to the push stroke. It depends upon what I am doing, which side the face is and how well the material is supported.

I think it just depends on what you are using it for, and what suits. The only real golden rule is that you should have the blade cutting into whatever is the good side of the work, rather than pulling through it. Think of jigsaw blades, you can get them configured to cut on the upward or downward strike for exactly that reason.

Now that's good advice.
Martin

 

[powertools]

For me a hacksaw blade cuts on the push stroke a fret saw blade on the pull.

 

[okeydokey]

I go with powertools as the correct (best) way, so teeth facing forward on a hacksaw