Which wall fastenings for twin slot shelving?

[Sandyn]

I am very familiar with this pain in the bum problem!. What you have is a pretty ideal system for removing plastic plugs from the wall. Plastic plugs work extremely well when the fixed part (bracket) is in close contact with the plug and wall, but when there is space between the plug and the bracket, the screw just pulls the plug from the wall.

For a problem like this, where there is space in front of the plug, I have a couple of solutions I usually try. The first is to drill much deeper, at least twice as deep as the length of the wall plug and use two plugs similar to the ones Doug71 suggests, or a long hammer plug like this. Hammer in most of the way, then final tighten with screwdriver. Sometimes I remove the hammer screw and replace with a suitable long screw. The fischer wall plugs you are using are fine in a situation where the centre section can compress and expand, but I find they often do exactly what you describe.
If you use two standard length plugs in the hole, the first can be knocked in using a long screw, Partly screw into the plug, then knock to the bottom of the hole. What you are trying to achieve is having the screw well into the wedge section of the plug before it starts pulling the bracket to the wall, so the screw is anchored well I often use a touch of oil on the screw to reduce the torque friction. That can help make them work better.

 

[Filament]

I bought a large selection box of Fischer plugs including those you have (UX) and the more traditional looking (SX).
Every time I tried the UX, regardless of substrate or size I had the problem you describe. Using the SX of the same size was fine.
I binned the UX.

 

[Tenacity]

So, normally the plug is held in place by the article u r fixing. So get another plug. Cut a length from that and place it as a spacer on the screw inside the upright. This usually stops the plug out so the screw can then be tightened. Also most important, the screw needs to be long enough. Length of screw = Thickness of object say 15mm + length of plug 60mm + diameter of screw 6mm = 81mm, or next longest. Make sure hole is drilled deep enough so screw can go through end of plug. If base material is soft try drilling on rotary only. Make sure it is a 10mm bit you have, I once did a site visit and test where fixings were failing and I found no problem when I did a fixing! turns out they had been using a 10.5mm drill bit, never seen that odd size before or since. If you get stuck let me know ands I'll see what else I can suggest. (PS if the screws are too short they don't expand the plug fully so start to pull out)

 

[PhilipL]

I am very familiar with this pain in the bum problem!. What you have is a pretty ideal system for removing plastic plugs from the wall. Plastic plugs work extremely well when the fixed part (bracket) is in close contact with the plug and wall, but when there is space between the plug and the bracket, the screw just pulls the plug from the wall.

For a problem like this, where there is space in front of the plug, I have a couple of solutions I usually try. The first is to drill much deeper, at least twice as deep as the length of the wall plug and use two plugs similar to the ones Doug71 suggests, or a long hammer plug like this. Hammer in most of the way, then final tighten with screwdriver. Sometimes I remove the hammer screw and replace with a suitable long screw. The fischer wall plugs you are using are fine in a situation where the centre section can compress and expand, but I find they often do exactly what you describe.
If you use two standard length plugs in the hole, the first can be knocked in using a long screw, Partly screw into the plug, then knock to the bottom of the hole. What you are trying to achieve is having the screw well into the wedge section of the plug before it starts pulling the bracket to the wall, so the screw is anchored well I often use a touch of oil on the screw to reduce the torque friction. That can help make them work better.

Yes, you well understand my problem. I think the hammer plugs would work best here, rather than two plugs.

 

[Tenacity]

Hammer fixings are not meant for the type of load you could put on the brackets, although probably mainly a shear load. Fischer I believe still do an S6RS60Z frame fix, this will take more load than a hammer fix, and would go through the bracket, plug and screw. If not an S8RS80Z but you would have to drill the bracket or put just the screw through and the plug behind. Good luck, there is always a bit of that needed.

 

[PhilipL]

Well, I got things sorted. OB1 to hold in the plugs and then - rather than use an aggressive impact driver - used a battery operated one. I think that may have been my problem in the first place - too much force when putting in the screws. You live and learn.

Now I just need to get shelving purchased, but there seems to be a distinct shortage of sheet materials in the Edinburgh area.