Which sharpening system for my chisels. Budget = £150

[flanajb]

I was looking at the sorry state of my chisels yeserday and realised that I could do much better. Being a lazy git, I was hoping that I could get a sharpening system to restore them and keep them sharp.

Anyone able to recommend the best one for the money ?

Thanks

 

[Jacob]

I was looking at the sorry state of my chisels yeserday and realised that I could do much better. Being a lazy git, I was hoping that I could get a sharpening system to restore them and keep them sharp.

Anyone able to recommend the best one for the money ?

Thanks

If you don't want to do it freehand (dead easy BTW) you could try this instead
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mi1uOISQ ... re=related
You would have to adapt the holding end for chisels.

 

[MickCheese]

I have a worksharp 3000.

It is a little above your budget at £199 but is really easy to use and produces a quick keen edge, on sale at present from Rutlands.

It is so easy that it encourages me to hone more often and that means I work with blunt tools less.

Mick

 

[No skills]

I keep looking at the trend system but havent seen any feedback on it from the good people on this forum, I do need something tho so I'll keep an eye here for suggestions

 

[Harbo]

An Eclipse clone, piece of plate glass and some 3M papers - Scary Sharp.
If your chisels need regrinding buy a cheap grinder, replace a stone with a cool running type and make an adjustable rest.
Probably work out about £100 in total?

Rod

 

[knappers]

An Eclipse clone, piece of plate glass and some 3M papers - Scary Sharp.
If your chisels need regrinding buy a cheap grinder, replace a stone with a cool running type and make an adjustable rest.
Probably work out about £100 in total?

Rod

Could you expand a little on the modding a cheap grinder bit for me, please? I have such a beast somewhere that could be sacrificed to the cause...

Si

 

[bosshogg]

diamond sintered plates, Lidl's £2:99, when they come back in - probably soon enough...bosshogg

 

[No skills]

diamond sintered plates, Lidl's £2:99, when they come back in - probably soon enough...bosshogg

Twice a year I do belive.

 

[matthewwh]

Rod

Could you expand a little on the modding a cheap grinder bit for me, please? I have such a beast somewhere that could be sacrificed to the cause...

Si

You need to get the top of the wheel running away from you - easiest way is to mount it on a wall, failing that I think you can wire the motor up to run backwards, but I'd consult an electrically minded person first. pop in a blue Norton stone from Classic Hand Tools and bob's your uncle.

Alternatively you can use the 3M 100 micron film stuck to a sheet of MDF - a couple of quid and you have a big flat surface that will remove metal by hand to the point where the chisel has a big beard of iron filings and is too hot to hold within a minute (which is as quick as you'd want to go with a powered grinder anyway).

I normally use ordinary PVA to stick it down but on sunday I tried it with epoxy finishing resin (OK I couldn't find the weldbond) and got a really flat and very well adhered result.

The latest batch of sheets are much flatter than we have been used to so they are much easier to handle.

 

[studders]

You need to get the top of the wheel running away from you -

Huh? Why? Wouldn't that be a bit iffy to use? :duno:

 

[matthewwh]

If you are laying the bevel on the stone with the back facing towards you (pointy end upwards at 45 degrees or so) it is far safer to have the wheel running away from you.

If the wheel is running towards you and it catches the edge you would end up with a massive transfer of energy to the workpiece and potentially unpleasant consequences.

 

[studders]

That would happen with honing I agree, but grinding?
I've never experienced it but then I never grind right to the edge as it's a sure way to blue the steel.
With the wheel running away from me, no I don't mean legging it, I can visualise the chisel 'running up' the stone if not held firmly against the rest as there is nothing to stop it doing so surely?

 

[matthewwh]

Same principle applies, you may get away with it for years but personally I wouldn't consider the width of a secondary bevel to be an adequate safety margin. There is an element of drag but it's very mild and you can control it by altering the pressure.

As long as the grit meets the steel at an acute angle all the time it can't dig in. If that angle suddenly becomes obtuse - as in inadvertently grinding through the edge with the wheel coming towards you- loud bang, flying chisel, brown trousers etc.

 

[studders]

loud bang, flying chisel, brown trousers etc.

:shock:
I don't look good in Brown so I shall certainly pay extra attention next time I'm re-grinding a Chisel.

 

[CHJ]

......You need to get the top of the wheel running away from you - easiest way is to mount it on a wall, failing that I think you can wire the motor up to run backwards, but I'd consult an electrically minded person first. .

Reversing the rotation of motor on a standard grinder by altering the electrical connections can have serious consequences.

The Securing nuts for the wheels are threaded Left and Right to encourage natural tightening during normal rotation, changing direction electrically can lead to the wheels becoming detached if you get a catch or undue vibration.

Mechanically turning the motor body on its base if it is so designed to allow it is safe, as long as it is possible to move the wheel guards and rests end to end to suit.

Fortunately most grinders do not bring out the starting winding thus allowing you to electrically reverse rotation.

 

[Alf]

You need to get the top of the wheel running away from you

Which begs the question: why are grinders set up to turn towards you? Polishing wheels and such, now that's a different matter - you want it to turn away or wailing and pain will ensue - but grinding? Absolutely the first I've heard of it.

 

[Mike Wingate]

Eclipse jig and a piece of glass with a range of abrasive sheets does work well. Even though I have a Tormek, 4x 8" x 3" Ezelap stones and a ceramic stone, plus smaller diamond blocks and plates, 4 oilstones and a Stanley 200 tool guide. An Elu double ended grinder with Tormek Bench grinder setup. I have access to a horizontal oil cooled grinder. Use what you can fford. It is mainly a speed thing. The more you spend, the faster you can sharpen. I do like to finish with the 8000 grit ceramic stone and a leather strop.

 

[matthewwh]

It's a simple risk assessment - less likely with a grinding wheel admittedly as the wheel is hard, but if you do get a dig in the consequences are just as uninviting.

Ashley Iles sell converted grinders specifically for the purpose - fitted with a lamp and supplied with a white grinding wheel, vulcanised wheel, mop and compound.