which router for a table

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Sorry chaps, but it does not matter how many times you question my findings the facts are, and will remain the same, my Triton routers are not up to comparison with others.

Mike
 
+1 for the Triton TRA001

Have used mine in a table regularly now for about 8 months can’t fault it. Have been using both very small & large cutters.

I did mention briefly in my table build thread the only real quality issue I had was with the depth stop, but this would only be a problem using it freehand.
 
MikeJhn":1d0euwv6 said:
Sorry chaps, but it does not matter how many times you question my findings the facts are, and will remain the same, my Triton routers are not up to comparison with others.

Mike
Which model? It's clearly faulty as nobody else seems to have this problem.
 
Wuffles":18gqc27m said:
MikeJhn":18gqc27m said:
Sorry chaps, but it does not matter how many times you question my findings the facts are, and will remain the same, my Triton routers are not up to comparison with others.

Mike
Which model? It's clearly faulty as nobody else seems to have this problem.
This has been asked several times without response. :?
 
MikeJhn":3dv5mley said:
Sorry to go against everyone else, but the two Tritons I own have so much chuck runout they are rendered useless, I now have a Hitachi MV2 in my table, in a UKJ router lift, transformed my use of the UKJ table, a bit like Silverline I will not buy anything Triton again.

Mike

Sorry to hijack this thread. How do you find the UJK table and router lift Mike?

My head is sore from the scratching I've been doing over what router table to buy. And no, I can't be bothered to make my own. So I'm looking at a table that allows me to lift the router without going under it.

The UJK looks the business. Does it have a wheel base option?

Or the Trend pro table with the T11.

God here I go again!

Jonny
 
JonnyW":1ltyhiil said:
Sorry to hijack this thread. How do you find the UJK table and router lift Mike?

My head is sore from the scratching I've been doing over what router table to buy. And no, I can't be bothered to make my own. So I'm looking at a table that allows me to lift the router without going under it.

The UJK looks the business. Does it have a wheel base option?

Have you seen Peter Parfitt's videos about the UJK table?
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=peter+parfitt+UJK+router+table
 
There are various Peter Parfitt video's including one that details the locking casters and inserts needed to make a rolling base, I copied this on my own and it works perfectly, I needed to take 100mm off the legs to keep the table at the same height as my workbench which I use as an outfeed table.

The only problem I have had with the UJK lift is that one of the threaded guide studs came loose and I had to take the chain off to get it back in place, considering how much work this has done over the last few years I am very pleasantly surprised that this minor problem is all I have had.

Another plus for the UJK lift is once you have the router bit height adjusted correctly you can lock the lift from above the table, no grouping underneath the table as you have to do with most other routers, this makes a nonsense of their above table adjustment as you still have to group underneath.

Mike
 
I don't have a UJK table, but I do have a T11 and really like it.

If you remove the turret screws for plunging whilst handheld (just use the same small screwdriver you use for setting their depth), you get enough movement vertically to do cutter changes from above the table, and the height adjustment is simple and very good.

You don't need Trend's expensive table, and unless they've changed the design, it's actually not as good as a DIY aluminium plate (IMHO). This is because it uses "quick release" toggles to hold the router in place. In my experience these don't work as well as simply bolting the router in. I have both systems on my router plate (added the Trend toggles when I first got the T11), and I much prefer the bolts. They keep the router secure and precisely aligned (centred, which occasionally is important). There is slight risk of movement with the toggles.

With a 19 or 20mm hole for the height adjuster you have enough room to get a 12mm socket on it, so can use a power drill above the table to do large height changes. Steve Maskery tells me you're not supposed to do this (he also has a T11), but I can't see why not, as long as you don't go fast. It's easy to get height accuracy +/- 0.2mm. Better than that depends more on the stock and technique.

I recently experimented with an Axminster small mitre lock cutter - notorious for being picky about setup. I built a new tall fence for the job, but had to break the setup down after doing test cuts (to do something else more urgent). I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to get back to the right settings using the test pieces to align the cutter -- very, very nearly a matter of just dialling it in.

So I'd recommend the T11. I'm not comparing it to others, as I have no experience, but I do like mine (handheld too).

E.
 
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