Which router? (again!)

[dylanw]

Hi all my first post here.

I also have had the same problem with the Triton.
Mine however has been fine since I stripped it down and cleaned it 2-3 months ago.
Apart from this problem it's been a good purchace.

Dylan

 

[Kalimna]

In all the above discussions, I havent noticed any mention of Makita routers. Is there any particular reason for this? Are they perhaps not very reliable or well built, or too expensive, or not enough features? Just wondering.
Cheers

Adam

 

[woodsworth]

I love Makita's laminate trimmer and when i worked fitting worktops i had a makita that had an angled handle that was great and very powerful. I don't know the model numbers though. I've not used the in between models that are commonly seen so i can't speak to them. I have the Dewalt laminate trimmer now and i'm not happy with it at all.

 

[George_N]

Hi all my first post here.

I also have had the same problem with the Triton.
Mine however has been fine since I stripped it down and cleaned it 2-3 months ago.
Apart from this problem it's been a good purchace.

Dylan

Hi Dylan, welcome to the forum and thanks for your input.

Adam, I didn't put the big Makita on my original list as it was even more expensive than the Trend and as far as I can see, it doesn't have above the table adjustment facilities. I already have a Makita circular saw and cordless drill, both of which are great tools, so I'm not against makita as a brand, just trying to keep my list of options manageable.

 

[Mike Wingate]

I have both the DW625e and the Trend T11. Apart from the depth adjustment, they are very similar. I have an Elu177e also and that is the same. I have the DW in a Jessem lift, and use it in 2 tables that I have built. The Trend is in a Trend pro table to meet H&S requirements at school. The Trend table is good apart from the fence. They should have put side rails similar to the Somerfield table. I have bought extra collets and collet nuts for ease of use.

 

[George_N]

I bought my T11 from D & M tools in Twickenham last month. They have (or had) an offer of a 1/4inch collet thrown in, at around £225 (incl. VAT) around 25-30 cheaper than the DeWalt, which anyway doesn't have the through-plate height adjustment. I don't know if it's still available, but I'm pleased.

The through plate height adjuster looks well thought out. I can't recommend the quick release system, as I think it's poor value, but I did have the plate drilled for them and have partially fitted them. The bolts and sleeves act as a really positive locator for the router, meaning the main mounting bolts align perfectly and very easily. It's little extra effort to do up the bolts, but I can see if you use Trend's table (which I guess is intended for site work), there may be a setup time saving.

If you do get one, you can get away with 17mm on the adjuster hole (not the 20mm they suggest), because the supplied long socket/handle has an o.d. of only 16.5mm. I got my aluminium plate drilled and countersunk locally, and gave the firm 1:1 drawings based on the drilling dimensions Trend supply in the router manual - everything fits perfectly, and you can change the cutters from the top, when fully raised the collet is roughly level with the table surface.

I also found the collet nut as a spare (Miles), about £5 cheaper than as an 'accessory', so have a second one to avoid messing about when switching shank sizes (I can only just get them to unclip by hand - a dowel is probably the answer, but I'd hate to bend those thin collet segments).

I have to 'fess up though: my T11's not up and running here yet, as I'm still doing mods to the table etc., so I can't speak to how well it actually works! It's a bit frustrating, (but domestic politics are involved too).

HTH, a bit at least...

Thanks Erik, I've had a look at the D&M web site and I can only see the T10 on offer at that sort of price (no T11 at all) and I don't think the T10 has the through table adjustment facility.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I don't think the T10 has the through table adjustment facility.

It doesn't. The T10 I think is aimed at kitchen fitters. The height adjustment is the only significant difference between the two: basically they have different soleplates. The T11 has a wider aperture, for larger cutters (although I can't imagine wanting to plunge a panel-raiser!).

They ought to be the same price though.

 

[George_N]

I don't think the T10 has the through table adjustment facility.

It doesn't. The T10 I think is aimed at kitchen fitters. The height adjustment is the only significant difference between the two: basically they have different soleplates. The T11 has a wider aperture, for larger cutters (although I can't imagine wanting to plunge a panel-raiser!).

They ought to be the same price though.

I finally found the T11 on the D&M site. Strangely, it isn't listed in the "Routers and Accessories" section but I found it under special offers. £239 including free 1/4" collet. That is the same as Axminster's regular price for the DW625 and £50 cheaper than their price for the T11 itself. I got a bit carried away and ordered one on the spot and also added a quick-release kit as I had a few pounds loyalty bonus with D&M from when I bought some Bessey K body clamps. I hope I can make the QR kit work with my home-made table...it should only be three tapped holes in the underside of the plate. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread and helped me spend my money.

 

[Eric The Viking]

and also added a quick-release kit...

...it should only be three tapped holes in the underside of the plate.

M6 clearance (through) holes are what they suggest. That's a minimum 6.4mm ('tight clearance' from memory), either countersunk or with a recess for a pan-head or cheesehead machine screw on the top surface. Mine are CSK and don't look too bad.

Underneath (in order) there's:
- a special threaded bush,
- a spring,
- a GFN* locking cam,
- a spring washer
- and finally a Nylock nut.

You could probably reverse the machine screw (screw into the underside of the plate on your router table and dispense with the Nylock nut), but I'd go for something M6 with a round head, so that it doesn't foul the cam or jam. I'm using red Locktite on the bushes on mine, because of the vibration.

If you want a drawing for drilling the plate, and can read Acrobat or Corel Draw 11 files, PM me.

*glass filled Nylon, I think, but might be ABS.