sparky
Established Member
honestly: ive stepped into puddles after a rain that were deeper than my pockets. :roll:
so you can understand why i am looking for just one saw to do a few different things.
which rip saw?
- Thread starter sparky
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honestly: ive stepped into puddles after a rain that were deeper than my pockets. :roll:
so you can understand why i am looking for just one saw to do a few different things.
Colin C
Established Member
Sparky
If that is the case then I would, like has been said before.
Go for a good tenon saw that will do both
If that is the case then I would, like has been said before.
Go for a good tenon saw that will do both
Mittlefehldt
Established Member
Actually the set in the teeth is less pronounced the finer the teeth, and at need you could get by with a single crosscut saw with fairly fine teeth, not ideal but certainly workable.
When I bought the two tenon saws mentioned above I was to say the least rather inexperienced, and I tried them both with little regard to crosscut or rip. Naturally the rip saw disappointed and I set it on the rack always there but uncalled for. Flash ahead a few years and I was trying to saw some white oak tenons with my brass backed crosscut, very slow indeed.
Out of frustration I picked up the other one the one with the steel back, and tried it. Surprise surprise not only did it suddenly seem to be capable it worked exceedingly well. Have a look around at antique stores, second hand stores and such, they are out there, and the hunt is rather fun to. Generally they won't break the bank.
Oh you asked I believe about using the heavier tenon saw for dovetailing, no problem if you get used to it, it will work just may be somewhat unwieldily for such a short cut.
When I bought the two tenon saws mentioned above I was to say the least rather inexperienced, and I tried them both with little regard to crosscut or rip. Naturally the rip saw disappointed and I set it on the rack always there but uncalled for. Flash ahead a few years and I was trying to saw some white oak tenons with my brass backed crosscut, very slow indeed.
Out of frustration I picked up the other one the one with the steel back, and tried it. Surprise surprise not only did it suddenly seem to be capable it worked exceedingly well. Have a look around at antique stores, second hand stores and such, they are out there, and the hunt is rather fun to. Generally they won't break the bank.
Oh you asked I believe about using the heavier tenon saw for dovetailing, no problem if you get used to it, it will work just may be somewhat unwieldily for such a short cut.
sparky
Established Member
Mittlefehldt":1yvviifj said:
:? what do you mean by 'unwieldily' :?
if i remember a post that mike placed yesturday he seemed to suggest that the set of the teeth would be too wide for dovetails. frankly im glad to hear your thoughts that a small tenon would be able to do the different tasks that i need. i was kind of thinking that and hoping that it was true [-o<
but what about the set? will a hight tpi give a fine set- i think you said that. so then a larger 'small tenon' with a hight tpi (say 13tpi) will have the size and the smaller set to be able to do 'unwieldily' dovetails and slow tenon cheeks but non the less ill have a nice hand saw that works well so i can tell if my wandering saw lines have to do with saw or me...is that a good summary :?: 8-[ :-s
thanks
ps. i feel like a kid using these 'emoticons' there lots of fun...its the simple things in life ya-know
:roll:Mittlefehldt
Established Member
By unwieldily I mean perhaps a tad awkward, or clumsy. You are sawing usually only one inch or less. Dovetail saws are by and large fairly small. If you want an exact size check either Lee Valley or Lie Nielson's sites to find out precise dimensions.
The set does get smaller with the increase in teeth. Prior to the last seven years or so many dovetail saws sold were filed crosscut, a point that Rob Cosman used to sell the Lie Nielson version which was filed rip, and was if he was correct the only saw that was filed rip, which was the way it had been done traditionally.
The problem is, and it is not insurmountable, that a larger tenon saw rip or crosscut would be rather clumsy to use for dovetails, unless you are doing timber framing.
James
The Pax dovetail saw that Lee Valley sells has 20 teeth per inch, nasty to sharpen for sure. I use that one for my dovetails. My rip saw is I believe around ten teeth per inch and my crosscut more 12 or 14.
So the answer I guess is yes you can do all jobs with one saw but you won't do them all well, and it may make the learning process more frustrating, and possibly put you off all together.
The set does get smaller with the increase in teeth. Prior to the last seven years or so many dovetail saws sold were filed crosscut, a point that Rob Cosman used to sell the Lie Nielson version which was filed rip, and was if he was correct the only saw that was filed rip, which was the way it had been done traditionally.
The problem is, and it is not insurmountable, that a larger tenon saw rip or crosscut would be rather clumsy to use for dovetails, unless you are doing timber framing.
James
The Pax dovetail saw that Lee Valley sells has 20 teeth per inch, nasty to sharpen for sure. I use that one for my dovetails. My rip saw is I believe around ten teeth per inch and my crosscut more 12 or 14.
So the answer I guess is yes you can do all jobs with one saw but you won't do them all well, and it may make the learning process more frustrating, and possibly put you off all together.
