which planes do i actually need

[big soft moose]

Those whove read my previous posts on this will know that i'm poised at the top of the plane "slope" so before i tip over the edge and hurtle down hill in a wild buying spree - what do people think i actually need. ( I know the concept of only buying what you need is an alien one , but i'm trying to rstrain my wilder urges )

not counting granddads 3 which arent in useable condition (a no4, no5 , and a block plane ) I have just dipped my toe in the water by arranging to buy a no.4 from another member, and have ordered a mujingfang mini from WH.

also could someone confirm what the numbers actually mean - am i right in thinking that its length of sole in inches ? and if so are they all a set width or if not how do you tell how wide they are ?

 

[Racers]

Hi, BSM

You need some books have a look at this thread http://ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33724 they should get you started.


Pete

 

[OPJ]

I'm not sure where the numbers come from or who they correspond to the length of a plane but, generally speaking, the higher the number; the longer the sole. That doesn't include block planes, obviously! :wink:

A low-angle block plane, by the way, can be useful for all sorts of things. But, we'll try and stick to standard bench planes, for now...

I'd say the minimum you need would be something to clean up and finish with (a smoother, like a no.3, 4 or 4½) and a longer plane for straightening and truing edges - a jack plane (no.5) will do this to some extent, unless you're working with very long stuff... The longer the plane, the better, really. You can also use them with jigs for shooting end-grain and mitres.

It sounds as though you may already have all those in your grandad's old collection... :-k If you don't plan on getting a surface planer/jointer setup at home then you could always buy a no.6 or no.7.

 

[AndyT]

Big Soft Moose asked

also could someone confirm what the numbers actually mean

The numbers you refer to were used by Stanley in the 19th century as model numbers. Some of them (for the bench planes) go in a sequence from small to large. So for example a no 4 is a smallish smoother about 9" long; a no 5 is a Jack plane about 14" and a no 7 is a 22" jointer.
But the numbers were extended to cover a wide variety of specialist planes and shaves, so overall, there is no consistent pattern.

The definitive guide to this is the well-written site 'Patrick's Blood and Gore' at http://www.supertool.com.

Many other manufacturers copied the numbering when they copied the commoner planes, or used similar numbering.


Andy

 

[Tom K]

Resistance is futile you need them all :lol:
For many of us #4,#7 and a block will suffice. As you have the #4 sorted
I would say a 9.5 and a #7 although you can get by with any of 5-8

 

[big soft moose]

yep i was afraid of that.

looking at the prices i cant really afford the very long ones unless i buy cheap (which as we have already discussed on tother thread i'm advised not to though its tempting - are those anant ones on rutlands any cop ? )

benchwayze is selling me a no.4 and if I can get grandad's planes back into use (as previously discussed i think i have a stanley 4 and a record 5 , but in bits and mixed up ) that will give me a 5 and a second 4 - i think i'm going to need to buy new blades tho

i also have grandads block plane with is arround 18" long but is missing blade and wedge.

plus if my WH order ever turns up i'll have a mujingfang micro .

I'm also browsing the old planes sites i was recomended on tother thread so we'll see what else i acquire.

thanks for the number explanation - and i'll no doubt be back in due course with other plane daft questions.

 

[MikeG.]

Don't listen to them.......they are all disciples of the devil!

Get a half-decent Jack plane and block plane and you'll be fine. Anything else is largely superfluous.

Mike

 

[big soft moose]

Don't listen to them.......they are all disciples of the devil!

are yes - but i'm from the dark (round) side anyway - bought a lathe yet mr G ?

 

[Tom K]

i also have grandads block plane with is arround 18" long but is missing blade and wedge.

Thats some block :lol:

 

[woodbloke]

If you want to go down the low angle route, then the LA jack is the only one you need, plus a decent block plane...but it's also pleasant to have a few others to choose from. I use the LA try plane for longer stuff, and a LN No9 for the shooter as well as a LA BU smoother with a very tight mouth for final smoothing of surfaces...but you can do pretty much everything with a LA jack, including work on the shute - Rob

 

[Vann]

i also have grandads block plane with is arround 18" long but is missing blade and wedge.

Grandad's plane may look like a "block" of wood but it's not a block plane. I'm not sufficiently familiar with woodies, but it's probably a jack plane, or possibly a fore. What width is the iron 2", 2 1/8",? I have acquired some old woodie irons that i may or may not fit into a Stanley plane. You could have one if you need it.

A real block plane is around 6" long, and held in one hand.

If you go with woodbloke's suggestion and get an Low Angle Jack you won't go wrong. The Veritas (LV) one has better adjustment than the Lie-Nielsen one, but less bling. And aim to get the full range of irons (25, 38 & 50 degree bevels).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[MikeG.]

are yes - but i'm from the dark (round) side anyway - bought a lathe yet mr G ?

That way madness lies...........

............as does having a plane obsession!

Don't get what you you don't need. Most people can't tell the difference between "need" and "want".

Mike

erm......I guess that's a long way of saying "no"!! :wink:

 

[bobscarle]

I know a lot of people on this forum recommend an LA Jack, and why not, they are very good planes. I bought a LN LAJ and it cuts very well. But now I wish I had bought a Clifton no.5 instead. I have a Clifton no.4 and it just feels so much better in the hand than the LN. Don't get me wrong, the LN is capable of superb work, but I don't like the feel.

The best thing I can say to you is before you decide which planes (plural, you will need more than one :lol: the slope is getting you) to buy, try them. I would be happy for you to try mine, but there are probably others a lot closer to where you live.

Bob

 

[Escudo]

I like planes.

 

[OPJ]

looking at the prices i cant really afford the very long ones unless i buy cheap...

I've been watching several Stanley and Record no.7s on eBay recently, which usually end up selling for around £90 but, lately, they've been averaging £35-50! :shock: Trouble is, you don't really know what condition the sole is in until your parcel arrives. Even still, you may be able to bag yourself a bargain...

I doubt those Anant planes from Rutlands are up to much either - low price means cheap steel. I've read reviews of some of their specialist planes (including the compass plane) and the reviewer wasn't too impressed. :?

 

[wizer]

What a bloody silly question to ask here Pete. You might have known that during the course of this thread you will be advised to basically buy them all and then make a few for good measure!

My advice. Buy a good smoother and learn to use it. You can't make an informed decision until you know exactly what it is you actually want.

 

[frugal]

Don't listen to them.......they are all disciples of the devil!

Get a half-decent Jack plane and block plane and you'll be fine. Anything else is largely superfluous.

Mike

I would have to agree with that. I have a modern Stanley #4 for flattening and a #5 for smoothing (I then realised that I probably set them up the wrong way around, but it works for me), and a LN low angle block plane.

I spent some time fettling them to improve the way that they work, they are not going to work at the same level as a set of Cliftons, or LNs, but for £110 for the lot they are good value for money (especially as I tend to work with reclaimed oak, or evenly grained woods rather than exotics).

 

[big soft moose]

i also have grandads block plane with is arround 18" long but is missing blade and wedge.

Grandad's plane may look like a "block" of wood but it's not a block plane. I'm not sufficiently familiar with woodies, but it's probably a jack plane, or possibly a fore. .

ah well i never said i knew what i was talking about - its basically like this one http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur ... 0%26um%3D1

which according to that website is a jointer plane

now i'm really confuzelelated

when i get home i'll take some pics so that you guys can give me a definitive answer

 

[lurker]

There are wood plane & iron/Steel planes

The block is type not physical description

BB will be along to explain why a block is so called (I'm fairly sure i know but will not expose my ignorance).

Size wise rule of the thumb

Thumb > block > smoother> Jack >jointer

Measure the hole in grandad's wooden Jointer (what looks like a block of wood) plane to work out the width of the blade - I've a box full.

 

[AndyT]

I think we may be seeing the ebay naming effect here - sellers look at other people's postings to try and deduce the right names for the tools they have to sell. But they don't see the significant differences, only the superficial resemblances.
So any wooden plane is likely to get (mis)-labelled as a "block-plane" or else as a "box-plane".

It's a useful way to spot the more clueless sellers. (As is the number of plough planes labelled as fillisters and vice-versa.)

Andy