Which Planer/Thicknesser - DeWalt 733S or Kity 1637?

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CYV,

I have the EB HC260 - it's the cheaper version with the open legs rather than the enclosed cabinet (IIRC that makes it a "K" rather than an "M").

It's a pretty good machine in most respects, but had I got a little more money at the time I would have bought the Scheppach due to it having rubber infeed rollers rather than serrated metal ones - on the EB these can leave little marks on the wood when doing very fine cuts (though obviously you could go over the final surface with a finely set smoothing plane). I' also slightly concerned that my aluminium tables are beginning to wear somewhat where I've been running heavy oak and beech past them.

Had I got more money and even more space, I would definitely have a separate planer and thicknesser - the time saving even for an average hobbyist is not insignificent, and the reduced hassle would be great. Only problem is that even the cheapest planers (£600-£800) still only plane to 6" width - you need to spend considerably for more for the very useful 10" or more that you typically get with the hobbyist combo machines.

Regards.

PitBull.
 
Ok, got it on wednesday, used it today for the first time so bit of a learning curve.

Just tried it with a 5ft piece of Sawn 6"x2" softwood with very slight cupping and also a bit of warp and twist. Initially I was taking off too much with each pass, boy does it ship some shavings :shock: :lol: The poor old wicks vac seems not to cope I'm afraid, so some extra help needed in that dept.

After a few passes all aspects improved but I then used my jointer to get a flat side and edge. Used the thicknesser again and ended up with a nice planed true board :), well it looked pretty good to me anyways :wink:

As I have no hardwood yet that test will come later.

It is noisey ( definitely use ear defenders) and one thing I learned very quickly is to lock the cutter head or you tend to loose a chunk from the end of the board unless well supported

Negatives: Instructions IMO are poor and the 4 bolts apparently supplied to fix it to the bench( according to the instruction book) were not there.

Its to early to judge but I think I'm gonna get on ok with this machine, once I get used to it :wink:, now I need some better dust extraction.

Its expensive this hobby, but I love it :D
 
Thanks PitBull, you have given me invaluable information.
Can you explain in more details the changes required going from Planer to thicknesser mode? How long it takes etc...
 
CYC,

Assuming it's currently in planer mode and you want to thickness...

You slide back the blade guard, release the locking handles (one each side), remove the planer outfeed table, flip the dust collector up onto the top of the blade area, wind down the thicknessing table a little to release the dust extractor nozzle, remove the dust extractor nozzle from under the infeed table and put it on top of the dust collector, lock the dust extractor nozzle in place with the two locking handles mentioned earlier, raise and slide the blade guard over top of the dust extractor nozzle, wind up the thicknessing table to desired thickeness and bang in some wood.

To put it back into planing mode is essentially the reverse of the above.

After a little practice it takes less than a minute either direction.

Regards.

PitBull.
 
Humm, and I always thought that you just fed the would in the planer or thicknesser without any difference!!! I REALLY understand why people want the seperate machines. I may reconsider getting seperates myself :?
 
It sounds a lot more of a hassle than it is. I have the Scheppach 260 and when I first got it I was surprised what had to be done to switch over, but when you've done it a couple of times, it becomes less hassle than changing the bit in your router. And as someone has mentioned I think, you'll be hard pushed to find a >6" jointer at a reasonable price.

Cheers

Gidon
 
Ok, I am getting the ins and out of the differences:
1 - Seperate machines means no setup between tasks, need more space. Only 6" wide planers at resonable price.
2 - One machine means setup between tasks but affordable 10" planer. And less foot print in workshop.

I am back thinking I want the combined machine. I know I can get a decent deal with the Elektra Beckum HC 260. However I haven't looked at the price of the Scheppach 260 which appears to please many of you :D
 
CYC,

I should of added to my post that combi machines would probably be better for the weekender like me, but if your trying to make a living with it, like my BIL where at the end of the day time is money all those little 2 minutes here or there soon add up and end up costing you money.

If I where buying stuff now for just my self I would go the combi route.

Cheers

Signal
 
Thanks signal and everyone else. I am convinced I should get the combi, I am not doing this for a living (yet :lol: ).
There is a significant price difference between the scheppach and the Elektra Beckum 260 machines. Most of you seem to have the scheppach, is it really superior to justify the price difference?
Pitbull's point on the infeed rollers sounds rather important.
 
Hi CYC

I started this thread to discuss the merits of various P/T's and it has worked so well that I haven't exactly made up my mind.

I can't remember who, but someone said they were concerned about the bed wearing on the EB.

Personally, I am torn at the moment between the DW733S combi (599), which has rubber infeed rollers, and the DW733 thicknesser and Axminster CT150 jointer. The separate machines work out at 700.

I am off to the show at Stoneleigh this weekend to have a good look around.

Cheers
Neil
 
Please let me know how you get on, everything :wink: .
I had not looked into the dewalt brand, but the DW733S looks good at first glimpse.
 
Bilzee -
Platypus suggested Stiles and Bates, and he's bang on the button. They do cater for woodturners, but their primary business is timber, and they have a superb selection of timbers, particularly some lovely English stuff - elm, sycamore, walnut - you name it.
They're sort of half way between Deal and Dover, and Dave Bates is extremely knowledgeable and very helpful. If you take a project down there, they'll sort out the cutting list for you and you can have a look through the stock and select the bits you want yourself. What could be better! I've recently had some beech, sycamore and walnut from them. First class timber, properly prepared, sensibly priced and mostly English too!
 
Hi Steve
Thanks for the info about stiles and bates. :)

I am getting to grips with my new toys using some sawn softwood timbers donated by my neighbour, who in turn gets a dozen free range eggs a week ( when the birds are laying well).

I will definitely be giving them a visit soon.

Incidently , how is Welling? I used to live in barnehurst untill 4 years ago when I moved down here ( Dungeness). Should have done it years ago.

Cheers :)

Billzee
 
Hi Bill,
Welling is the same as it ever was, really. Not a bad place to live, but not a patch on the sea, the countryside, the open space, the better pace of life, the friendlier folk... 'scuse me if I sound envious.

It's on account that I'm envious, you understand!

We're lucky. A particularly good part of Welling with terrific neighbours. At the end of the day, it's about people, I 'spose!
 
Hi CYC

At long last I have seen the DW733 (thicknesser) and the DW733S (Planer/Thicknesser) in action.

I have decided to go for the DW733S. The finish it produced was excellent. Blade changing was straightforward and the only down side was the dust extraction when changing from one mode to another. I don't think it will be too bad once you get used to it.

The motor is also very quiet.

Cheers
Neil
 
Hi CYC

It's cheaper, only 599 GBP. The demonstrator, who had one himself, told me that you can re-sharpen the blades about eight times before having to replace them.

Sorry I don't have a Euro price.

Cheers
Neil
 
Hi CYC

Due to a family bereavement my workshop has been put on hold until January.

I will be placing my order my order as soon as I can. I'll let you know what I think.

Cheers
Neil
 
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