Which One to Buy

[Grahamshed]

The OP hasn't been back since he made the original post, though I suppose it is only a few days.

I will have a look at the sorby modular rest as well.

 

[Blucher]

Well guys after a load of deliberation, I finally settled for my lathe....... a SIP 01936.
I have been awaiting its delivery, and it finally arrived on Wednesday gone. Not used it yet, but I have given it a once over out of the box and it is very nice. Centres line up perfect, tailstock and banjo traverse the bed smoothly, motor works and most importantly, the variable speed works very smoothly and quietly.
I think the thing I have been most eager to obtain was fully variable speed after all of the recommendations on this forum. After doing a precise measurement of available space in my shed, I discovered the CL4 (my lathe of preference) would simply not fit, unless I turfed out other stuff that is needed for other projects, so going on some other recommendations regarding the debateable longevity of the cone drive variable speed units, I thought its got to be an electronic speed control.
I liked the look of the SIP because out of all of the Midi lathes within my price range, it appears to have the most power with a nice little 3/4 HP DC motor with a 305mm swing (I am not sure how this compares with the turning power of a 3/4 HP CL3 for torque etc but being totally new in these matters, I imagined that they must be the same given such a power rating, but please correct me if I am wrong in this belief cos I just don't know fer sure).
Most other midis are 1/3 to 1/2 HP and I just thought this might fit the bill better for a first lathe.
The only item I am struggling to find now is a bed extension. I read of how certain smaller lathes are exactly the same lathe just badged up or painted up different, and I tend to wonder if any of these others provide a reasonably priced extension, because it seems SIP don't (I have spoken to SIP themselves yet there is clear facility for such retrofit on the machine, and the accompanying brochure even implies that the extension should form a part of the package, being clearly identified with its own part number). Has anyone any suggestions on this, otherwise I will have to resort to the job done by Bill Akins on You Tube (which looks a reasonably solid job).
Anyway, whatever, its a nice size to cut my teeth on I guess, without spending too much money on a first dip into the market. If I do enjoy it (and I will enjoy it even more if I have the option of longer spindles) I can upgrade at some future point.

 

[Robbo3]

I am really pleased with my 1628 but it has some design shortcomings (in my opinion) some very small others a bit more work to fix.
1. the belt change cover is held on with an allen screw. the key for this is not supplied and it ought to be a thumbwheel not a screw.
2. the original faceplate that comes with it is allen screwed to the spindle. There is no mention of this anywhere and the requisite allen key is not supplied. the result is about 30% of new owners (including axi staff) damage the threads on the spindle when unpacking from new.
3. the tool rest wont allow you to dip your tool handle more than 20 degrees before you start pivoting on the back of the rest which is rough and unhardened.
4 the tool rest is set back from the supporting column so when facing bigger diameters you have to position the toolrest too far from the work or the support with foul the work.

5. When using the extension bed for larger work the banjo is too short to position the toolrest outside the bowl

Both 3 and 4 can be fixed by making a new toolrest with rear clearance and a front overhang to clear the supporting post. Alternatively you could steal a rest from a jet lathe. I guess for 5 you would need to make a bigger banjo.

The tailstock is graduated for 10 cm movement. But inserting a full 2mt with tang steals 2.5 cm ie 25% of the available movement. This caused me a minor problem drilling a hole through a rolling pin I was making. It could be cured by cutting 2.5 cm off the 2mt tool but that could lead to other problems. Basically the tailstock is incorrectly made. My modern cheap Chinese pillar drill or my near 100 year old metal lathe does not suffer from this fault.

If the steel locking pin to lock the spindle had a place on it so it could be attached to the lathe it would be better. My pillar drill does.

Finally and this is probably not exclusive to the 1628. If you pull the plug or switch it off at the mains, For a little while pushing the start button will run the motor for a turn or two. It could easily catch you out. It is because there is no electronic interlock built into the variable speed electronics. Ideally lack of input power should inhibit the electronic motor run function.

I know these may seem "picky" but to me it shows lack of finesse in the design, bit like windows all the individual parts built and designed by separate committees.

1. I prefer the low profile dome headed allen socket screw supplied as it allows a relatively flat area for storage. Small magnets make ideal holders for all sorts of bits like an allen key & the spindle locking pin.

3.& 4. Without seeing how you work, I'm not sure what's happening here. The rest seems to be a generic shape as supplied with lots of different makes & models of lathes.

5. I thought that was the idea of having a swiveling headstock with the additional option to reverse the rotation, but agree that a longer banjo would be nicer. It is certainly ample for the maximum turning size over the bed.

The tailstock mechanics & start button haven't caused me any problems. As the weather warms up, my lathe should hopefully be getting a lot more use so if I come across any problems, I'll report back.


It might have been better if this was in the APTC 1628 thread
- axminster-1628-v-s-woodlathe-t74016.html

 

[Grahamshed]

Well done Blucher. Now get out there and enjoy it. and don't forget to show us the results.

 

[Vic Perrin]

The one problem I do see with the 1628 is the extended bed / legs combo. The extended bed cannot be used in 'big bowl' format without buying the legs as well and the new price Axi are charging for them seems a tad extortionate. I am planning to put it on a bench and hope I never want to make anything wider than 16 inches.

It is neither difficult or expensive to make up a free standing toolrest. With that you are unlimited to the size you can turn. Just be sure you make a sturdy and heavy stand for your lathe. and ask axi if you can have a jet toolrest instead of the one supplied. ( you can buy a 6" jet toolrest as an optional extra. ask for the 12" (300mm) as well.

Duly noted about asking for Jet tool rest(s)

I have been looking at ( details of ) the Record maxi 1 which I have to admit had bypassed me. It is an impressive looking machine and the 21 inch swing would probably mean I wouldn't need any way of doing anything bigger but it is longer than I wanted and although it is sort of in the same price range it sort of isn't either.
Mounting the axi on a cupboard/trolly/bench would mean I could make my own attached outrigger which would give me huge turning capacity without having a long lathe.
I am tempted by the Maxi but think I will stick with the 1628.

Hi Graham, I have had the Record Maxi 1 with the outrigger attachment for 4 years now. I honestly can't fault it.
From slimline pens to 30" diam bowls it just handles everything you throw at it.

If you have never seen one operating you should try and get a demo. I went to Record and tested one before I brought mine. If ever you are in my neck of the woods you are more than welcome to come and have a spin

Vic

 

[Grahamshed]

Thanks for the info, and offer to see, Vic. It looked like a great machine but apart from being dearer is also considerably longer which will be a problem.
I may well arrange to have a look at it though.

 

[Blucher]

Well done Blucher. Now get out there and enjoy it. and don't forget to show us the results.

Thanks Shed. I will do as soon as I set it up, got to finish off making the space. It is sitting for the present on my lounge floor waiting for some weather so that I can complete the job. Maybe this weekend.
Not sure if I will start turning yet until I have attended a local club which was kindly recommended to me by one of this forums members. I don't want to develop any bad habits which I will have to break out of, for want of a week or two. I want to get to doing it the right safe and proper way.

Regarding photos, I might wait until I am a bit more proficient on the turning before attempting that. I hope that day wont be long off, although watching a few of the turners on You tube and on some DVDs I bought of Ebay, and the speed with which they do things, and the depths of wood they are gouging out at each pass, I think I might still have quite a way to go.

 

[Grahamshed]

Not sure if I will start turning yet until I have attended a local club which was kindly recommended to me by one of this forums members. I don't want to develop any bad habits which I will have to break out of,

That makes a great deal of good sense.

 

[woodfarmer]

I am really pleased with my 1628 but it has some design shortcomings (in my opinion) some very small others a bit more work to fix.
1. the belt change cover is held on with an allen screw. the key for this is not supplied and it ought to be a thumbwheel not a screw.
2. the original faceplate that comes with it is allen screwed to the spindle. There is no mention of this anywhere and the requisite allen key is not supplied. the result is about 30% of new owners (including axi staff) damage the threads on the spindle when unpacking from new.
3. the tool rest wont allow you to dip your tool handle more than 20 degrees before you start pivoting on the back of the rest which is rough and unhardened.
4 the tool rest is set back from the supporting column so when facing bigger diameters you have to position the toolrest too far from the work or the support with foul the work.

5. When using the extension bed for larger work the banjo is too short to position the toolrest outside the bowl

Both 3 and 4 can be fixed by making a new toolrest with rear clearance and a front overhang to clear the supporting post. Alternatively you could steal a rest from a jet lathe. I guess for 5 you would need to make a bigger banjo.

The tailstock is graduated for 10 cm movement. But inserting a full 2mt with tang steals 2.5 cm ie 25% of the available movement. This caused me a minor problem drilling a hole through a rolling pin I was making. It could be cured by cutting 2.5 cm off the 2mt tool but that could lead to other problems. Basically the tailstock is incorrectly made. My modern cheap Chinese pillar drill or my near 100 year old metal lathe does not suffer from this fault.

If the steel locking pin to lock the spindle had a place on it so it could be attached to the lathe it would be better. My pillar drill does.

Finally and this is probably not exclusive to the 1628. If you pull the plug or switch it off at the mains, For a little while pushing the start button will run the motor for a turn or two. It could easily catch you out. It is because there is no electronic interlock built into the variable speed electronics. Ideally lack of input power should inhibit the electronic motor run function.

I know these may seem "picky" but to me it shows lack of finesse in the design, bit like windows all the individual parts built and designed by separate committees.

1. I prefer the low profile dome headed allen socket screw supplied as it allows a relatively flat area for storage. Small magnets make ideal holders for all sorts of bits like an allen key & the spindle locking pin.

3.& 4. Without seeing how you work, I'm not sure what's happening here. The rest seems to be a generic shape as supplied with lots of different makes & models of lathes.

5. I thought that was the idea of having a swiveling headstock with the additional option to reverse the rotation, but agree that a longer banjo would be nicer. It is certainly ample for the maximum turning size over the bed.

The tailstock mechanics & start button haven't caused me any problems. As the weather warms up, my lathe should hopefully be getting a lot more use so if I come across any problems, I'll report back.


It might have been better if this was in the APTC 1628 thread
- axminster-1628-v-s-woodlathe-t74016.html

Re 1 the allen screw. It seemed odd to me to install a lever to move the motor and another lever to lock it to facilitate changing belt speeds, but then needing a tool not supplied ( 16 pence worth) to actually get at the belt and pulleys. I did say it was a small thing, if you prefer the allen screw then that is just a choice. I would prefer a thumbnut.

using the toolrest for spindle turning is ok as you can raise or lower it to get the bevel rubbing. For facing off or doing frontal intermittent cutting I prefer to have the tool running on the bevel using as sharp a cutting angle as possible. Using the gouge on its side is really cutting like a skew chisel, ok when you have continuous cutting but not always the cut I want to use. face on you can't dip the handle much more than 20 degrees before it starts pivoting on the back. This is the first time I have seen a rest do that, but I admit my experience with woodturning lathes is very limited. the jet, record and myford lathes don't have that problem. Worse, face on to the work the tool rest support fouls the work nearly half an inch before the rest itself. Again none of the previous lathes suffer from that problem.

I have virtually no experience with wood turning lathes but do have some with metal cutting lathes. none of these has had the swivelling headstock feature so I don't really think of it. But I can see it could be a help with the outboard turning of the outside of the workpiece. Just it never occurred to me. Be aware this facility leaves you with a headstock that is quite happy to lock down up to half an inch off true with the tailstock centre. so each time you move the headstock if you want to turn between centres, or drill you need to check it with the tailstock centre.
From your note I have had a little play. To swivel the work on the bed, it seems easiest to turn the headstock through 135 degrees and load the banjo to the left of the headstock, That seems to give the best access to a bowl.

it is just that the tailstock loses a quarter of the available movement. Whether it ever bothers anyone or not will depend how deep they want to drill. The start button is fine, just that when you switch off the mains to the lathe it can still work for a little while, which might just prove to be inconvenient

hope that clears things up, didn't see your post until today.

 

[Altheo]

Has anyone had experience with a Tyme Avon?

 

[dickm]

Has anyone had experience with a Tyme Avon?

Had one for quite a while, and only changed it for the Mystro to enable switching of accessories between the wood and metalworking lathes. The Tyme wasn't a great seller, but IMHO was an excellent lathe for the price. OK, it's not a cast iron battleship, but mounted on a solid bench is very capable and the bed bar arrangement is really superior - smooth moving and 100% accurate tailstock location. Speed change is pretty easy, even though it involves swapping belts. As it takes a foot mounting motor on a completely accessible plate, it would be very easy to get a replacement 3-phase motor to run off an invertor to give infiinitely variable speed. (That was in the pipline for mine, using the 3p motor off the 352, but got overtaken by the purchase of the Mystro)
Downside, apart from not being CI, is that it's an uncommon nose thread (25mm by 2mm if memory serves) so getting chuck adaptors isn't necessarily easy.
But for anyone who wants a practical, useable lathe, at the usual Ebay price of £150 to £250, it's a bargain.

 

[Altheo]

Useful info. Many thanks.